Need carburetor advice for a 1975 F-100 with a 360W...
#1
Need carburetor advice for a 1975 F-100 with a 360W...
This is my first post on this forum, so I'll apologize in advance if this topic has been beat to death already. I've got a 1975 F-100 "Explorer" pickup that has had chronic carburetor problems with the stock two-barrel. Symptoms are: extemely poor gas mileage (6-7 mpg), runs extremely rich (even when warmed up in hot weather), stalls when I punch it, not nearly the power it should have, etc., etc.
A friend with exactly the same pickup/engine has relayed similar experiences with his truck, so he gave up and installed an Edelbrock manifold with an AFB. That sounds like a reasonable option, but I'm looking to poll a wider audience to see what others have experienced. I'd appreciate any input from those out there who likewise have a mid-70's truck with the 360W with the two-barrel carb. Thanks in advance!
Jay
A friend with exactly the same pickup/engine has relayed similar experiences with his truck, so he gave up and installed an Edelbrock manifold with an AFB. That sounds like a reasonable option, but I'm looking to poll a wider audience to see what others have experienced. I'd appreciate any input from those out there who likewise have a mid-70's truck with the 360W with the two-barrel carb. Thanks in advance!
Jay
#2
I'll keep it short because I'm on an iPhone and I should be sleeping. Some people will tell you it's the accelerator pump on the carb - and it may be- but go ahead and replace all you vacuum hoses and make sure they are well clamped. Including the one down to the modulator on the transmission. Pipes are cheap and it's easy do. If it still dies when you give it gas take the air filter off and look down into the carb and manually work the throttle and if you see little jets if gas squirting it's probably not the accelerator pump. Rule those two things out first. Took me a while to run it down but now my 360 runs sweet.
#3
Welcome to FTE!
I don't think it makes sense to spend a bunch of money to avoid solving a problem that probably takes 10 minutes of diagnosis, and at worst a carburetor rebuild. The problems you're having with the stock carburetor could happen with any carburetor.
The poor mileage and rich running could be due to a leaking power valve, improperly set idle mixture, high float height, or stuck choke.
The stalling and lack of power could be a side effect of the aforementioned issues, or could also be an accelerator pump issue, vacuum leak, or problem with the ignition timing.
One last note, no such thing as a "360W;" it's a 360FE. There is a 351W which is from a different family of engines.
I don't think it makes sense to spend a bunch of money to avoid solving a problem that probably takes 10 minutes of diagnosis, and at worst a carburetor rebuild. The problems you're having with the stock carburetor could happen with any carburetor.
The poor mileage and rich running could be due to a leaking power valve, improperly set idle mixture, high float height, or stuck choke.
The stalling and lack of power could be a side effect of the aforementioned issues, or could also be an accelerator pump issue, vacuum leak, or problem with the ignition timing.
One last note, no such thing as a "360W;" it's a 360FE. There is a 351W which is from a different family of engines.
#4
Already been down this road...
The carb probably does need some attention but replacing vacuum lines is cheap, we're talking about $10 worth of rubber.
With the same problems I rebuilt my carb, replaced the vacuum module on the distrubutor, the plugs, leads, rotor arm and cap ad the ignition module before replacing the vacuum lines and ultimately fixing the problem. If your engine is dying when you hit the gas, it's either lack of fuel or lack of advance. Without a good vacuum, you don't get any advance. $10 of rubber 10-15 mins of your time. Well worth it before going to the cost/hassle of rebuilding a carb.
With the same problems I rebuilt my carb, replaced the vacuum module on the distrubutor, the plugs, leads, rotor arm and cap ad the ignition module before replacing the vacuum lines and ultimately fixing the problem. If your engine is dying when you hit the gas, it's either lack of fuel or lack of advance. Without a good vacuum, you don't get any advance. $10 of rubber 10-15 mins of your time. Well worth it before going to the cost/hassle of rebuilding a carb.
#5
#6
#7
Rebuild it... invest a few dollars into some small brushes (Napa has them), a can or two of Carb Cleaner, and a rebuild kit. I rebuilt the 2bbl on my 360 and had it back on the truck and running in a couple hours. It isn't worth it in my opinion to spend gobs of money on a new carb when you can rebuild what you have for a fraction of the cost.
Plus.... once you've taken it apart,cleaned it and put it back together; you'll know how it all works. Just makes tuning that much easier.
Plus.... once you've taken it apart,cleaned it and put it back together; you'll know how it all works. Just makes tuning that much easier.
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#8
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan
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Take the time to rebuild it. It'll be well worth your time to take a look at the processes that go on when your vehicle runs.
Also, take a look at this:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ce-manual.html
Also, take a look at this:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ce-manual.html
#9
Thanks guys... good advice, all. I'm on my second carb rebuild and my third accelerator pump diaphragm, and I haven't put that many miles on this beast. My buddy has been through many more carb rebuilds than I have, with results that don't stay satisfactory for very long. That's why I was pulsing the crowd to see if anyone else has experienced this sort of chronic problem with their two-barrel. Since the 390 is essentially the same engine and they came with a four-barrel, it seems an easy fix would be to drop a 390 manifold/carb on the 360... has anybody out there done that? Thanks, Jay
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