New truck, antifreeze leak
#17
#18
Crystal
#19
I just bought my 2011 F350 6.7 with 54K on it. Drove it home, around 900 miles from the Frod dealer and another 500 of my own miles. Now the coolant level is low and it smells like coolant. Nothing on the ground yet. It checked out fine at the dealer too.
Local dealer says most likely it will need the radiator changed, around $1000+.
I did not buy the ESP yet. According to the ESP call center I can buy it any time. It was quoted at $3800 for the prem 4 year 60K.
I just want to get it fixed so I can start using it. I tow in the summer so the sooner the better.
Is there any place under the truck I should look at for a leak to spot it?
I do like the truck, it is worth fixing hands down.
Local dealer says most likely it will need the radiator changed, around $1000+.
I did not buy the ESP yet. According to the ESP call center I can buy it any time. It was quoted at $3800 for the prem 4 year 60K.
I just want to get it fixed so I can start using it. I tow in the summer so the sooner the better.
Is there any place under the truck I should look at for a leak to spot it?
I do like the truck, it is worth fixing hands down.
#20
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 7,287
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141 Posts
I just bought my 2011 F350 6.7 with 54K on it. Drove it home, around 900 miles from the Frod dealer and another 500 of my own miles. Now the coolant level is low and it smells like coolant. Nothing on the ground yet. It checked out fine at the dealer too.
Local dealer says most likely it will need the radiator changed, around $1000+.
I did not buy the ESP yet. According to the ESP call center I can buy it any time. It was quoted at $3800 for the prem 4 year 60K.
I just want to get it fixed so I can start using it. I tow in the summer so the sooner the better.
Is there any place under the truck I should look at for a leak to spot it?
I do like the truck, it is worth fixing hands down.
Local dealer says most likely it will need the radiator changed, around $1000+.
I did not buy the ESP yet. According to the ESP call center I can buy it any time. It was quoted at $3800 for the prem 4 year 60K.
I just want to get it fixed so I can start using it. I tow in the summer so the sooner the better.
Is there any place under the truck I should look at for a leak to spot it?
I do like the truck, it is worth fixing hands down.
I will find a pic
#25
#26
Failed coolant cap
I looked over the lower corners of my radiators and they both look slightly wet. The truck is real dirty from the winter roads around here so it is kind of hard to tell a leak from melt off.
No major leak to speak of. Not like the pictures above.
The interesting part of this is that I removed the coolant cap to test the cap for pressure. The cap looks like new. When I put pressure on it to 16psi it held just fine. Then I put another pump on it and the pressure kept going up and not regulating. It went to over 20psi then popped real loud and went to 16psi. Now it regulates at 16psi like it should.
Now I need to top the coolant and see if the radiator, hoses, and fittings survived.
My 2008 6.4L at 130K miles held no pressure on the cap at all. The radiator was changed about 6 months before I found the bad coolant cap. The shop put the same failed cap back on with the new radiator. I replaced the cap and it had no problems after that. I know the current owner and he has had no trouble with it in the 15K he has driven the truck.
Ford cap was about $19.
Stant cap from Advanced is about $5. (these are always out of stock in my area)
I plan to test or replace the coolant cap when I do the fuel filters every other oil change.
No major leak to speak of. Not like the pictures above.
The interesting part of this is that I removed the coolant cap to test the cap for pressure. The cap looks like new. When I put pressure on it to 16psi it held just fine. Then I put another pump on it and the pressure kept going up and not regulating. It went to over 20psi then popped real loud and went to 16psi. Now it regulates at 16psi like it should.
Now I need to top the coolant and see if the radiator, hoses, and fittings survived.
My 2008 6.4L at 130K miles held no pressure on the cap at all. The radiator was changed about 6 months before I found the bad coolant cap. The shop put the same failed cap back on with the new radiator. I replaced the cap and it had no problems after that. I know the current owner and he has had no trouble with it in the 15K he has driven the truck.
Ford cap was about $19.
Stant cap from Advanced is about $5. (these are always out of stock in my area)
I plan to test or replace the coolant cap when I do the fuel filters every other oil change.
#27
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