So I changed all four rotors (Motorcraft) & Pads (Wagner ThermoQuiet)and flushed the brake fluid.

Took a test drive afterwards (8-miles total). Brakes worked as expected, but when I returned I "smelled something". I immediately went around & started checkin each wheel ... all were good except the right rear.

Apparently I have a sticky caliper or a collapsed brake line (haven't quite narrowed it 100% but I'm pinning it on the caliper) ... the new pad must of dragged on the new rotor for the entire 8-miles. The heat was enough to turn the rotor blue.

I'm no expert on this, so I'm asking ... should I correct the problem & continue using the pad & rotor that was heated? Or, is it recommeded to replace everything if the rotor turned blue??

 

I am also no expert, but were it me I would replace the rotor and pad. Don't screw around and try to save a few bucks. You may be betting your life and your family's life.

 

I would turn off maybe .010" off the rotor. keep the rotor there is nothing wrong with it. the rotor is not bad maybe just a bit warped. pitch the pad. and re-break in the brakes.

 

Rotors are cast iron which is pretty stable as far as metals go. I would have no problem using it, as long as it's not warped.

 

The rotors are cheap enuff if you have to replace it. Like the OP said, have it turned so it's true, then I'd def investigate the cause of the lock-up. You're on the right path eyeing the caliper and\or brake line. New pads won't be needed, just scuff them up good.

 

If there are no signs of cracking on the surface after a .010turn than it is fine to use, I'm probabaly being very conservative directing you to turn it but that is mainly to remove any warpage that may have set in, as another poster said they are very rugged castings and should be fine!

 

Did you grease the slid pins? That would cause this if they are stuck. Here is how to do this if you don't already know. Welcome to guzzle's Front Caliper Slide Pin Upgrade Web

 

You are going to have a hard time finding someone who will turn the rear rotor with an on-car lathe, so if you were going to have someone bench turn it I would not bother. You won't end up getting the rotor back within it's spec of under 0.001" installed runout.

As long as there are no hot spots which sometimes can be seen as shiny areas, I would reuse the rotor as is. It heated up and cooled uniformly, probably getting up to about 600-800°F depending on the "blue". Just look for spotting as that will be the key if it can be reused.

I would be more worried about the brake pad, not only being scorched, but the long term integrity as the underlayer or bonding to the steelback could be compromised. Pads tend to shuck at the most inopportune times.

 

^you wanted an expert opinion,I'm thinkin you got one!^.... I must have mis read that first time through! Rear rotor I would just run if it has no apparent cracking, sorry I thought it was a front first time.

 

like above, 800 degrees more than likely did it some good given an even cool down. it removed the stresses from the manufacturing processes (the minimal stress from casting anyways)

 

The better rotor manufacturers will process the casting to prevent stresses, but you're right, if there were any they are not there now! Nor would there be any special effects if they were cryo'd!

 

Absolutely. 100% agree.

 

Fix the problem and try it if it shutters replace. Rears get very little work.... Surprised they needed replacing, my 2000 had the original rear brakes after 11 years and 93,000+ miles.....

 

I agree with redford on this.

Iron will surface crack when there seveverly over heated. If it was very bad you should be able to see the cracks fairly easy. On the other hand if the rotor is not cracked or warped I'd probably reuse it because I'm poor. Bonded pads that have been super heated would make me nervous though

 

I considerd this as a cause as I did clean & re-lubed the slide pins, as well as replaced the rubber boots; however, when I removed the caliper the slides moved freely. The only resistance on the slides was the suction caused be the rubber boot.

I picked up a re-man caliper over lunch and will install it this afternoon. I've pinned it on the caliper 'cause only one of the two pistons would extend when the pedal was pressed. I would have to hold that piston & hit the pedal again to get the other piston to extend ... and after that it would not compress w/o a bit more force than the other. I saw no other issues with the set up whatsoever ... so if it's "not" the caliper, then it has to a collapsed line (I did release the bleeder valve when the caliper was pressing the pads against the rotor and it dot not release).

Other than the blue discoloration on the rotor, I saw nothing else. The pads also did not appear to be any different than when I installed them 8-miles earlier. I'll reinstall everything and feel for a pulsation .. if there, then I'll replace both the rotor & pad.

Oh, the rear pads had about 3/16 of material left before changing ... I only replaced the rears because I did the fronts. I wanted to do all four at the same time ... the rears probably did'nt "really" need it.