Help- engine not idling
#1
Help- engine not idling
Good feeling gone. After thinking I’d solved all issues with new carb, etc. i found that the truck - 66 f100- would run but had a definite issue with timing. Adjusted timing and for a short time that seemed to make a difference. I determine there was a significant vacuum leak but now with a new spacer -the original cracked- the truck starts right away but won’t idle without giving it gas. It’s running rich but if attempt to lean it it shuts down immediately.
guy at local garage is puzzled as well. Is it possible the carb is the issue? Timing is where it should be.
any thoughts?
guy at local garage is puzzled as well. Is it possible the carb is the issue? Timing is where it should be.
any thoughts?
#3
66 F100 V8352. Not sure the brand of the carburetor the garage installed but gets high reviews online - it's not a Holley or Edelbrock I know that.
When the carb was first put in after new radiator, fuel lines, brake lines etc. The truck ran but definitely had some spots where I had to give it gas and then eventually it would catch up and move. Rough but drove.
Then the following week (could only drive it once on weekend and then again the next week due to work). I drove but incredibly rough - rougher than first trip. So I took it to garage last week. Turns out the carb spacer - we think the original - was cracked and thus a major vacuum leak. Timing had been adjusted so when the spacer was put back on the thought was it would just start up and idle. That was not the case....won't idle without giving it gas and won't stay idling. Adjusted timing again and still nothing. Garage says it could be the carb - that sometimes you just get a bad carb - and owner who restores old cars and trucks is puzzled. And I'm bummed.
As I'm still learning about this stuff I'm not sure what it could be. Need new spark plugs -put some in? New carb? Exhaust issue - only have short pipe at the moment. It ran before and I felt good about it for a day. just not sure.
When the carb was first put in after new radiator, fuel lines, brake lines etc. The truck ran but definitely had some spots where I had to give it gas and then eventually it would catch up and move. Rough but drove.
Then the following week (could only drive it once on weekend and then again the next week due to work). I drove but incredibly rough - rougher than first trip. So I took it to garage last week. Turns out the carb spacer - we think the original - was cracked and thus a major vacuum leak. Timing had been adjusted so when the spacer was put back on the thought was it would just start up and idle. That was not the case....won't idle without giving it gas and won't stay idling. Adjusted timing again and still nothing. Garage says it could be the carb - that sometimes you just get a bad carb - and owner who restores old cars and trucks is puzzled. And I'm bummed.
As I'm still learning about this stuff I'm not sure what it could be. Need new spark plugs -put some in? New carb? Exhaust issue - only have short pipe at the moment. It ran before and I felt good about it for a day. just not sure.
#4
My advice, don't throw money (sparks, carbs,...) on it without knowing what is the issue. Can you post pictures of the carb and your setup? Also try to get a picture of the throttle blade position. Video might also help. You can upload to YouTube and post the link here. Timing was adjusted, to what? Do you have a vacuum reading? If the vacuum is too low your power valve might open and dump fuel in the carb. Is the choke opening up? Have you checked spark plug wiring? Is it firing on all cylinders?
#7
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#8
That's a Chinese knock off of a Motorcraft 2150, which is an evolution of the Autolite 2100. The Autolite version is dirt simple. The Motorcraft version has more emission controls but is basically the same design with annular boosters that atomize gas very well giving great throttle response and fuel economy. The vacuum advance port is on the lower front passenger side of the carb body.
First thing you need to do is make sure you don't still have a vacuum leak somewhere.
I don't know how well made the Chinese version is, but I wouldn't just assume it's bad. Disassemble it and look for something missing (check ball) or cracked (emulsion tubes). Cracked emulsion tubes are a common failure on one that is 50+ years old. I would buy an Autolite 2100 off ebay and rebuild it myself. Get a good quality ethanol compatible kit from someplace like Gotta Fish.
First thing you need to do is make sure you don't still have a vacuum leak somewhere.
I don't know how well made the Chinese version is, but I wouldn't just assume it's bad. Disassemble it and look for something missing (check ball) or cracked (emulsion tubes). Cracked emulsion tubes are a common failure on one that is 50+ years old. I would buy an Autolite 2100 off ebay and rebuild it myself. Get a good quality ethanol compatible kit from someplace like Gotta Fish.
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