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turning over real slow...

 
  #61  
Old 07-16-2011, 08:04 AM
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Well, I spent some time, dwnloaded.
What's that clatter?
May B why they let it rest (for good) those 12 yrs ago? Something in the top end?
Runs now, tho! You're gettin it, bro!
(Lady is worth more n runnin a camera, (SHE got it started!) nother reason to keep er.)
 
  #62  
Old 07-17-2011, 07:28 AM
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Clatter--I know what you mean, I didn't here it until I watched the video ten times...
I was hoping it would clean up after I get 'er running (with fuel) and warmed up.
I was planning a compression test today but the weather man predicts 90 F & 199% humidity! !!
Don't know if I'll get to it.
I did take the carba apart...full of varnish, stinks like paint thinner.
I'm trying to see if I can just clean it up a bit with carb clean and hopefully It will be unstuck enough to run....maybe.
(The parts store with the rebuild kit is closed all weekend any way)
I'm just anxious to see how good of shape the engine/drive train is in.
 
  #63  
Old 07-17-2011, 03:07 PM
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Awful hard to get a sense of "it" from a vid (or may B more correct is a 'puter speaker). Didn't some 1 say marvoal mistry oil? or wuz dat nother thread...spray in carb as runs & put in gas. Wonder bout that sea foam?
Got a bucket U can soak the carb in 4 prep 4 the rebuild kit? Use carb cleaner to soak couppla days. THEN go @ it w/brush, etc. I'm thinkin U know this from other jobs U mentioned, but a strainer/net basket helps not loose prts (they're so small).
BroncoBones, a google group, is right in your local area (Worcester) for ideas on best/least expensive kits, who's got em
 
  #64  
Old 07-17-2011, 07:35 PM
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Hey that bucket w/ the basket goes for $64.95 at C.A.P.! I'll do my best with a light action wire wheel , some carb clean , and a rebuild kit. know what I mean?
"Broncobones" eh? that's interesting...thanks...I'll look it up.

The fuel bubbling out the top was due to a stuck needle valve and the needle valve's
O-Ring being faulty. I obviously can't fix it with out the kit but I was able to slow it down a bit.
I can't get the idle to slow down either...the base idle screw is doing all that much. Hopefully it will all come together after I clean & rebuild it.
 
  #65  
Old 07-17-2011, 09:03 PM
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prices, ingenuity when U got lackawanna

I like consumer auto parts! Didn't know they were out that far (know where they're based? CT? MA?) been unemployed since may of oh nine., just got 1 day a wk @ AutoStoned (20% discount on prts). That 64 $ "basket" sounds like a nice idea but I been usin a steel net like colander in an ol alu stew pot to soak air guns, carbs & other stuff w/tiny losable stuff in it. 'S'getti 1 day, prts cleaner the next... Course I'm a bachelor n can pull it off, don't think the ol lady woulda allowed that.

A/F screw's in all the way n then out 1 1/4 turns. If it wuz a stock carb we could get a free shop manuel on line. May B Richard can find the holley somewhere. U must have a bent8? Seems somebody put some $ into it, eh?...

When U get to broncobones dot yahoo (whatever, whatever) look up shaun galudett, that state cop's been a major impetus to BYOB (bring yer own bronk - that's ur model/make/yr) going. we had 3 - 4 efforts in the last 10 -15 yrs to get a regional (or otherwise) EB network goin and he n some others made it happen by tryin something different (& even bigger). we tried a newsletter (on-line), a 'meet-n-greet' monthly, monthly trail ride, and some other stuff. Nothing lasted. The (is it?) late May 'event' has worked 2-3 yrs now & growed some other stuff outta it (prts sales, etc). U can see a report on it every yr in Bronco Driver mag. The nat vendors come/donate the 'door prizes' just like the big nat. "rallys"...

BTW: how's the tub on er? Usual frame rust's around the fuel tank. sold my '70 to a guy who drove from 1/2 hr west a Albany (ie 2 hrs 1 way) to give me 200 $. 'nother mo or 2 - he gave it away "to much wrk (it had a nice patch wrked great for the last 27/8 yrs for me!) to get it into condition", he said. Wha the ...???
 
  #66  
Old 07-18-2011, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by gfw1985 View Post
PCV in passenger side valve cover connects to that port on back of carb. Pulls air in thru filler/breather cap. Carb is the plain old 600cfm Holley, any info you need is on Holley site under tech. Downloadable .pdf files on installation and parts breakdown. Won't have idiot light, has pressure gauge and you do know oil is pumping due to the mess. Pressure gauge working would be nice, but yes you can plug hole and fire it up. Just gambling a little bit. Any noise and shut her down.
Carb soak , one gal can w/basket is under $30 at most local parts stores. It's reusable, I've done three or four carbs so far on the one I bought. Everything else you need will be in rebuild kit w/instructions, or from Holley website. The Marvel Mystery oil will free up sticking valves, lifters. Seafoam in carb once running will clean carbon deposits off valves and tops of pistons. You need to fix that oil pressure sender and see were you stand on pressure. Keep an eye on oil level. If it raises, fuel pump could start leaking into crankcase since it's been setting for so long. All of these could be giving you valve train noise.
 
  #67  
Old 07-18-2011, 12:47 PM
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Fuel - on a Mechanical style fuel pump, is there a gasket that keeps the fuel in the pump?
All I know is electronic fuel pumps mounted directly in fuel tank. [most of which as module style & usually any where from $350.00 - $650.00/ they have the sending unit, fuel level and pump all in one unit. All most always submersed in the fuel, which doubles as a lubrication/cooling agent for the pump.]
A mechanical pump is new to me.
I'm sure they are simple but that doesn't mean I'm familier with them. can you get a blown up diagram of the internal workings of the fuel pump?
 
  #68  
Old 07-18-2011, 01:23 PM
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Don't have a diagram for one, maybe someone will chime in. But there is a rubber diaphram/bellows that seperates the engine oil from fuel. Same theory as the accelerator pump in carb that you will become familiar with. Being rubber, it can deteriate over time. When it goes bad, nine times out of ten, it pumps fuel into your crankcase diluting oil, you get the idea. Small leak may take you awhile to notice. Total failure and you'll be blowing oil and gas out the dipstick.
 
  #69  
Old 07-18-2011, 06:18 PM
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What's it run off, some kinda lobe on the crank? Anyway there's a lill arm, sticks into there n pumps up n down. The ele (a lill high on price, no?) is good @ pushin; this 1 @ pullin.
U can see it cuz the fuel line goes in there/& out down low on the frnt of motor. Kinda like the carb mounts to the intake - has 2 nuts on either side of a flange.
Yep, oil sender & carb seem next...
 
  #70  
Old 07-20-2011, 07:27 PM
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Currently rebuilding the Carb...easier than I thought it would be.

I installed a new upper radiator hose as well. And as for the oil sender leak...well ...um....se...well I stopped it from leakin!

Should have the engine up and running again sometime tomorrw -
My wife and I are going to want to document on film, when we do...I'll post it here on the site.
BTW: A special thanks to those of you who helped me get through this - you know who you are! - Even though I've got a long way to go...I couldn't of gotten this far with ot you guys!....Thank you.
 
  #71  
Old 07-20-2011, 08:44 PM
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is far with ot you guys!
sure U could, may B just longer & more frustration.

Be real careful w/the fuel-into-the crankcase and the top end clatter. A sm step on each can make it or break it. MM oil for the top end & a good gasket for the fuel pump. B prepared to have the lady shut er down quick.
Good luck, be safe AND productive, led us No...
 
  #72  
Old 07-21-2011, 08:09 PM
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Before I took the carb apart...it ran, at a very high idle, but it ran.
I rebuilt the carb and tried to start 'er up tonite:
It sputterd a but- tried to run but ultimately died out. I couldn't get it to catch after that. At all!
I dunno...maybe she's floaded. maybe not.
The primary bowl had fuel in it.
I've honestly never had to adjust a carb in my life!
Coil over plug & SPFI & EFI & MPFI is more my speed...if you know what I mean....
....So what's next? How to get 'er running enough to make idle adjustments?
 
  #73  
Old 07-22-2011, 05:56 AM
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Yeah, flooded sounds right, pull a plug for speedy dx of prob. If wet, that's it.
So motor is free n able to run now? Get compression tested? Valves still bangin?

What did U actually do to the carb? Do U have a manual?
I'm the same, never wrked on a carb (but rebuildin this YF). & U got way more time on efi than I. No idea bout a holley...
 
  #74  
Old 07-22-2011, 06:10 AM
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Yeah, kinda on your own with the carb. Since the fuel bowl filled, thats progress. You know it'll run so has to be something with the carb. Only takes a spec of dirt to foul one up. And easy to make a small mistake on reassembly. Go back over it and check float settings and adjustments.
 
  #75  
Old 07-22-2011, 09:01 AM
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yeah, Im not sure what happened...there is alot of parts that dont get used in the Holley rebuild/trickit --
I cleaned it out perfectly though.
So what is proper setting? Turn the fuel idle adjust needle all the way in ...then out 1 & 1/2 turns on both sides?

And what about base idle screw? How far open should the primary throttle plate be open?
 

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