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turning over real slow...

 
  #16  
Old 07-01-2011, 12:46 PM
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Wink

I'll give it a try. Somthings gotta give!
 
  #17  
Old 07-01-2011, 01:00 PM
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Bench testing at home will do you no good. Take it to a local parts store where they can load test it. The starter itself was used on about million vehicles and readily available. If you purchase one, just make sure you get one to match your setup. Automatic and manual transmission starters are different. Good thing to do is compare them side by side before leaving store. The snout is longer on one with starter gear a different depth. Don't depend on some kid with a computer to get it right.
 
  #18  
Old 07-01-2011, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by gfw1985 View Post
Bench testing at home will do you no good. Take it to a local parts store where they can load test it. The starter itself was used on about million vehicles and readily available. If you purchase one, just make sure you get one to match your setup. Automatic and manual transmission starters are different. Good thing to do is compare them side by side before leaving store. The snout is longer on one with starter gear a different depth. Don't depend on some kid with a computer to get it right.

LOL! I never depend on "some kid with a computer" to get it right. I learned that one a long time ago.
I think Autozone will load test it for me.
 
  #19  
Old 07-01-2011, 08:04 PM
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I just meant the mechanicals of it (aint read the links yet).
If those tests dont wrk THEN take it out (not 1st) & bring it 2 a big bx store to free test.


Autozone will load test it
Yes, we do.
 
  #20  
Old 07-08-2011, 04:24 PM
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So I brought the starter to autozone for a load test. Everything tested good.
The Starter is not the issue. I will have to check all electricals from battery to the starter.
Could even be a bad battery.
I'lllet you guys know. Thanks.
 
  #21  
Old 07-09-2011, 08:05 PM
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I replaced the starter because when I took it off, the lower ear mount snapped off.
Oh well, $38.00. I replaced all lines from battery to starter solenoid, from solenoid to starter. From battery neg to block-ground. I now have a full solid crank!!

NO Spark though.The firing order is probably off. Does anyone know the wire routing/firing order by chance? That and a little fuel and we should be up and running!!!
I'm so excited!!!
 
  #22  
Old 07-10-2011, 08:00 AM
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Firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 Cylinders count 1-2-3-4 passenger side, 5-6-7-8 drivers side, count from radiator to firewall. Just go on and put a new set of points in it gapped to .017
 
  #23  
Old 07-10-2011, 02:13 PM
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How can I tell the difference a between "points ignition", and an
"electronic distributor?" I removed the Distributor Cap and found a A Rotor with some wires inside and what looks like a vacuum advance mechanism attatched to the outside.

Should a 1972 have points? Or did the guy before me upgrade?
 
  #24  
Old 07-10-2011, 02:24 PM
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Points distributor will have one wire leaving it connected to neg side of coil. Duraspark will have three wires leaving it, orange, purple and black. Pertronics will have two wires, a red and a black.
 
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Old 07-10-2011, 03:03 PM
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well I am confused for sure then.
Check it out...I have one black wire coming from the distributor (must go to neg side of coil).
but the cap has a rotor underneath it? I don't see anything that resembles points.
I dont know whats going on here man. the ignition wires have a "male" type end that plugs into a "female" type "socket" on top of the distrib cap. the Rotor underneath is made by Standard.
I don't know what to do. if it is supposed to have points...where do they go? inside/underneath the cap? Should there be a place to mount them somehow?
Thanks.
I sure wish I had a photo of under the cap of both types side by side!!!
 
  #26  
Old 07-10-2011, 04:09 PM
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Cap off, pull rotor button off, points should be clearly visable with an arm riding on the hex shaped portion of center shaft that opens and closes them. If you haven't figured it out by morning I'll post pictures of each for you.
 
  #27  
Old 07-10-2011, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by gfw1985 View Post
Cap off, pull rotor button off, points should be clearly visable with an arm riding on the hex shaped portion of center shaft that opens and closes them. If you haven't figured it out by morning I'll post pictures of each for you.

OK, got it, Thanks. I pulled the cap, then the rotor button. On the bottom of the shaft is, as you said, a hex shaped portion. As it rotates, I can see the points open and close respectively.

So...the million dollar question: How do I test it to see if it's working properly?
Which part is gapped to .17?
Currently I do NOT have spark anywhere through out the ignition system.
There seems to be a small amount of oil type residue on the hex portion of distributer shaft. Maybe it should be cleaned?
 
  #28  
Old 07-10-2011, 04:34 PM
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The lube on shaft is normal. Points will open when the arm rides across the raised portion. With it sitting on that ridge set the point opening with a feeler gauge, loosen screws that mount the points slightly and you will see a slot in one side you can use to pry them open till you have the correct gap. While we are at it, check for voltage to the + side of coil when key is in run position. We'll go from there.
 
  #29  
Old 07-10-2011, 04:42 PM
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Sounds like the perfect time to ditch the points completely & switch to Pertronix. It takes about 30 minutes if you go slow. No more gapping forever!

If it was sitting that long, I'd also spring for the normal tuneup stuff too...cap/rotor, wires, plugs, etc. Better to know what you're starting with.
 
  #30  
Old 07-10-2011, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by tomf1230 View Post
Sounds like the perfect time to ditch the points completely & switch to Pertronix. It takes about 30 minutes if you go slow. No more gapping forever!

If it was sitting that long, I'd also spring for the normal tuneup stuff too...cap/rotor, wires, plugs, etc. Better to know what you're starting with.

I bought new cap , rotor, plugs, starter, coil, All new battery terminals & 4 gauge wires to relay and to starter, And new 4 gauge ground wire to block.

Haven't gotten the wires yet....trying to get her running on a budget...if you know what i mean....
Any way totest spark at the points? with the cap & rotor removed?
 

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