The 250 ones extend some (slip shaft) You have to pull shaft out some.

I "thought I read somewhere" that the Manual Trans requires the longer shaft and the Autos are a bit shorter. Which do you have again?

Mine is an auto and it bolted right in. I did pull mine out a bit though. No issues with cross member or anything.

 

I've got a 5 speed, the stock shaft is too long, can't compress it enough to get it bolted up. I think I will have to use the shaft with CV joint

 

OK I now have one driveshaft made out of two to get right length and ujoints.
Now i have the driveshaft hitting on the crossmember. The diff is hanging on the springs. What did i do wrong?

 

Can someone maybe tell what a stock f350 driveshaft should look like???

 

Well the solid axle swap is a success except I now have a really good looking 2 wheel drive. I've drawn a blank trying to fit a front shaft. The f250 shaft is too long, and has about 1/4 inch clearence from the cross member trans mount. I know I can get the shaft shortened but would have to cutt completely through the crossmember and drop a section a couple of inches. If anybody has hit this same wall and could throw me some ideas on where to go from here it would be much appreciated.

 

I'm starting a Dana 60 swap for my 97 F-250. Just bought the Dana 60 today from a guy who was scrapping his old truck. I requested the track bar bracket, but by the time I got there, the truck was already on its way to the metal yard with the bracket still firmly attached. Does anyone have a stock bracket for sale? Know where I can get one? Thanks

 

I got the track bar with the dana 60 I bought. I'm still trying to figure out how to hook up a front drive shaft. If you didn't get the 350 front drive shaft and transfer case yoke you're gonna have the same problem I've got.

 

Well after 2 months of busted knuckles and head scratching my solid axle swap and rear diff swap is done!!!!
I'd like to thank everybody on here that helped in this process.
Some advice to anyone that is gonna try this, make sure you get all the F350 parts, and if your truck has a 1345 transfer case you may want to get the F350 1356. There doesn't appear to be a yoke that will mate a cardian joint to a 1345. I shortened the f250 front driveshaft about an inch it works fine but I have the expected high speed vibration when in 4 wheel drive.
I dropped the transmission crossmember to under the frame rails to provide shaft clearence. With a spacer under the transmission mount and spacers on either side I have about an inch of clearence for the front shaft.
It's been a fun project and thanks again for the help, and if anyone has a solution to the
high speen vibration caused by the front shaft, let me know.

 

Since you have had time to drive your vehicle with the F350 axle swap, can you shead some light on the benifits and maybe the negatives ? Did it change the ride? Softer or firmer, is it more noticable when you hit a pothole? How about high speed handling, does the truck roll more since it is raised up? Any other comments?

 

I liked it so much I sold it not long after it was done!
It was a fun experience [not]! It changed everything about the truck some good some bad. It seemed to ride rougher and the extra height was pain.
Would I do it again? NO!

 

thanks, I will cross it off my list and just change my front differential when I get time (410s now, rear diff is 355)

 

I wouldn't go that route either. I went from 355 to 411 my mileage went for a big dump

 

The truck I am changing to 355 has a 6bt cummins, and it needs the higher gears. I have a 7.3 idi with the 410s and it gets about 17-18 at 70mph, can hit 20mph at 55 mph.

 

FWIW, if you used the 250 springs up front that caused the rough ride. They are stiffer than the 350 springs. I tried to follow the thread but can't tell exactly what you ended up with. The vibes may (most probably) have been imbalance in the front shaft or improper pinion angle. If a pro did it, I would not go back to that shop again (If you were sure you got tho pinion straight). It should have been balanced after cutting/welding. It would also vibrate if is was not perfectly straight.

And for any future searchers/readers, for a TTB D50 to D60 Monotube swap off a 350 you need from the F350:
Track Bar
Track bar bracket
Steering tierods and Draglink
Springs
Drivers side spring plate

You may also need to shorten your F250 front drive shaft.
-Mike

 

350 pitman arm is not needed.
the 250 and 350 use the same pitman arm
you only need to change the pitmn arm if you put in over 3 inches of lift