Your thought? What would be better? I'm going to a swap meet in september and if I'm lucky someone has to have something for the 300!

 

A Port & Polished 240 head.

Although, shaving a little off the 300 head will give you just about the same thing.

 

Yeah I would love to find a 240 head man! I just decided do the whole top end of my 300 and a nice lopey cam nothing to extreme, which cam do you have AB?

 

I *had* a Comp 260, but it shredded a lobe after 250 miles and I had to find a donor engine, which I'm driving around right now.

But, I liked it for the short duration I got to drive it.

Have a P&P'd head in my garage that I'll use when I get my old engine back together.

 

Yeah I looking at comp cams but I wasn't to sure about there quality even thought I'm running there lifters I was ifffy using a different brand cam and lifters. I just don't what brand are out there for the sixes

 

Be aware that older heads won't have the hardened seats needed to run lead-free gas. They can be replaced, but it's going to cost a bit extra. The hardened seats came along right around 70/71, in preparation for the discontinuation of lead in gasoline.

 

Thanks for the warning dude! Didn't know all I knew is that head had a smaller combustion chamaber! But thank man ill have to do a bit more research on the 240 head!

 

Yes but the 240 was available thru 74. So if you can find a 72-74 240 head you are good to go.

 

If you're picking up a used, untested head, most people would have it broke down and gone through anyway before installation. Having new seats installed my be needed anyways. The cost is not that big of a deal.

You'll need new v.springs for the cam, and it's a good idea to replace to oem rocker studs with new screw-in ones for the extra tension.

If you are bumping the compression, use the Felpro $60 h.p. head gasket.

Whatever you do, cams and lifters mate for life. Always use new lifters with a new cam. Don't reuse your relatively new Comp lifters with a new cam. Or it may grind you a pound of lopes.

If you want a relatively mild cam, but one that will have the cam sound, use the Isky 262, a mild performance cam.

Note: BEFORE YOU SPEND ANY $ ON MACHINE WORK FOR THE HEAD, HAVE IT MAGNAFLUXED FOR CRACKS.

 

Hey f250, looks you know what im talking bout, i chuckled when you said dont use the relatively new comp lifter with a new cam... it seem like your the only one that know what i have been doing to ol big red besides AB.

 

Any head with studs vs. bolt down rockers will have machined pushrod slots so you wouldn't have to dick with guide plates.

Another thing to consider is stronger pushrods. The 300 has long pushrods, and with stiffer valve springs, a bigger cam, and maybe higher ratio rockers going to a 3/8" diameter pushrod would be insurance against bending one. That means machining a head with slots or 3/8" guide plates.

If you're building from the bottom up get pistons with less dish to bump up compression rather than chasing a 240 head. If not, it (or and EFI head) is an easy .5 point bump in cr. EFI heads are supposedly "fast-burn" and help with low end power.

 

I gotta agree with the piston advice. It's easier to bump the CR with less dished pistons than it is to find a 240 head that already has the hardened valve seats. The latter was only around for 2-4 years.
Lets face it, by the time a 300 needs freshened up, it's likely going to need bored, so new pistons have to purchased anyways. Put the money you would spent on buying a head into upgrading the current one.

 

Baron, right now im current running Comp Cam pushrods you think those are a bit stronger they look like pretty good quality too me,

what do you mean by "going to a 3/8" diameter pushrod would be insurance against bending one" could you explain??

 

As he said, when you change from the oem cam, v.springs, you increase the stress on the valve train (spring, rocker, p.rod, lifters, and cam), so he thinks that instead of using the stock diameter p.rod, you should get a thicker one for insurance.

However, IMHO that would be way over kill. No one goes to that extreme. A hardened 5/16" rod is plenty for these little engines.

 

Good point about the hardened push rods. I just want to add, NEVER, EVER use guide plates WITHOUT hardened pushrods. It don't work, at least not for long. You might get away with doing this with the guide plates that have the nylon insert for the pushrods to rub against, but you won't get away with it on the plates that lack this insert. It will grab the pushrods, stopping them in their tracks, until they become a wad of useless junk. Then it usually spits them out, so lifters can go roaming around where they shouldn't, before the engine spins down to a halt. If you're really lucky, you might even have part/all of a pushrod make it as far as the oil pan.
No, I didn't do this. I watched a buddy do it, while saying I didn't think it was a good idea..........