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Yoke Removal

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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 04:12 PM
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Yoke Removal

Ok guys...truck: 2000 F-350...I guess I am not seeing how this yoke on the rear diff. comes off. I have taken the nut that sits behind the u-joint when the driveshaft is on there, and I can't get it to budge...what am I missing? Thanks
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 07:27 PM
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A big hammer! It does just slide off but needs encouragement.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 09:18 AM
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Ok because I did pound on it some until I felt I had missed something. Thanks, this truck was a northern state truck so the rust has taken over the undercarriage in a bad way, so all the work that has needed done to it over the years has needed "encouragement".
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 09:38 AM
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Don't beat on it, you can cause the pinion and ring gear teeth to bang together and can cause chips. Use a puller.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 09:48 AM
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Use a puller. A pulley puller cab ne rented from autozone and it does the trick on the yoke. The drive shaft has 4 bolts the yoke has one large nut.
If you talking about the drive shaft not comming off it has a slip and might need to be pried off the flange
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 09:53 AM
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OK I will use a puller. Thanks guys, and yeah I have the driveshaft off and the new u-joint in it, but my problem is one of the four bolts that hold the driveshaft to the yoke rounded off, well I have tried a handfull of things to get it out, and I am to the point of just taking the yoke off and working on it somewhere where I have a little more room and not laying under the truck trying to make it worse than what it already is.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 02:07 PM
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Don't forget that yoke needs to go back on in the same location and depth as it was taken off. so mark it, count the threads at least.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 03:06 PM
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Yes, getting it back on there you need to ensure the correct bearing pre-load is reached. The correct procedure is to disassemble and use a new crush-sleeve, but many will reassemble to the same nut position to put it all back in the same place.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 03:29 PM
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Some pic's for ya:

Puller, cold chisel for the marks, loosen/tighten against a bar, not the gears. Tighten another 1/2 turn tighter than original (your results may vary, count the # of turns when removing the pinion nut).
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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An extra half turn would be way too much additional pre-load.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 04:51 PM
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Yeah I'd just put it back exactly as it was. No extra 1/2 turn required.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by senix
Yeah I'd just put it back exactly as it was. No extra 1/2 turn required.
Thanks for the tips, seem's there are multiple opinions on this:

Originally Posted by EXv10
Marking the pinion nut and returning it to the same position is a bad idea! You need to tighten the nut to the point where there is a slight drag on the pinion. The bearings wear and so the pinion gets sloppy and putting a slight drag on the pinion will crush the sleeve a bit more and restore the proper pinion fit and regain the needed resistance on the nut to keep it tight. When you just put it back where it was you are in the same condition you were originally! The combination of the springyness in the crush sleeve and the worn bearings will allow you to restore it to a like new condition.
When I loosened it the first time, it wasn't very tight, I was expecting more resistance. I'm out of my area of expertise here. Hopefully the pic's helped tm.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 06:38 PM
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When I did the pinion seal a few weeks ago I tried to match the amount of slack I felt in mine. That was about 10k ago. No issues so far. It was a pita to get off though.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2019 | 05:32 PM
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Yoke removel

Originally Posted by cartmanea
Don't beat on it, you can cause the pinion and ring gear teeth to bang together and can cause chips. Use a puller.
I having problems removing the yoke on a 97 f350 I tried a 8inch puller and it just bent the screw on the puller and did not budge the yoke. I was thinking about putting heat on it and try it again any other suggestions will help
 
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