1997 f250 body lift?s
#2
I think they dont offer the body lifts for diesels because the amount of weight that diesels encounter could be dangerous with the bodylift.
As for your questions about a gasser bodylift fitting. Yes the gasser body lift will fit. There's a couple of guys on here that have done a body lift.
As for your questions about a gasser bodylift fitting. Yes the gasser body lift will fit. There's a couple of guys on here that have done a body lift.
#5
the reason they dont offer the body lift for the diesels is just because of the mechanical fan. theres no room for play. you move the body up, you have to trim the shroud and because of that it reduces its cooling ability. ive done all 3 body lifts on mine and thats the only thing thats needed alteration unless you have a zf5. you have to extend and clock the shifter and if you go a full 3" then you need to trim your floor board for the t/c shifter cause it will hit before going into 2h. one thing you WILL wanna do if you do a body lift is get new rubber or poly body mount bushings. your rears sag really really bad. the longer the cab the worse it is. my rears were down over an inch and a half. your removing the bolts and lifting the cab anyways.... why not give it a better ride and level it back out right? for under 200 you can get a full poly kit. front, rear leafs and the body bushings from summitracing.com its well worth it. ive got some pics if you'd like
#7
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#10
the reason they dont offer the body lift for the diesels is just because of the mechanical fan. theres no room for play. you move the body up, you have to trim the shroud and because of that it reduces its cooling ability. ive done all 3 body lifts on mine and thats the only thing thats needed alteration unless you have a zf5. you have to extend and clock the shifter and if you go a full 3" then you need to trim your floor board for the t/c shifter cause it will hit before going into 2h. one thing you WILL wanna do if you do a body lift is get new rubber or poly body mount bushings. your rears sag really really bad. the longer the cab the worse it is. my rears were down over an inch and a half. your removing the bolts and lifting the cab anyways.... why not give it a better ride and level it back out right? for under 200 you can get a full poly kit. front, rear leafs and the body bushings from summitracing.com its well worth it. ive got some pics if you'd like
#11
I used the gasser body lift on mine 10 years ago.
Just cut the bottom of the fan shroud off. Makes getting the stupid thing on and off way easier anyway.
If you have a ZF then go with a short throw shifter and get 3/4" of the 3" lost in height back.
I also got "Gap Guards" to cover the gap between the frame and bed, and frame and front iner fenders. Most people don't even know there's a body lift on it.
I had to modify my front bumper to rise up a bit too look correct, and I modified my step bars, too, so that they worked better.
And I added a section of black alum running board (my truck is black) between the bed and rear bumper to hide that gap as well.
Overall the body lift makes just about everything easier underneath to work on. Only real issues are at the back of the motor, but those can be overcome.
EDIT: I am somewhat concerned about hauling anything really heavy in the bed. If/when I do use the truck in that manner, I plan to fabricate a small steel framework for the bed to sit on. The riser mounts look really shaky at best, like if you were going to haul a slide in camper or such. I just don't think a body lift would be good for something like that.
Just cut the bottom of the fan shroud off. Makes getting the stupid thing on and off way easier anyway.
If you have a ZF then go with a short throw shifter and get 3/4" of the 3" lost in height back.
I also got "Gap Guards" to cover the gap between the frame and bed, and frame and front iner fenders. Most people don't even know there's a body lift on it.
I had to modify my front bumper to rise up a bit too look correct, and I modified my step bars, too, so that they worked better.
And I added a section of black alum running board (my truck is black) between the bed and rear bumper to hide that gap as well.
Overall the body lift makes just about everything easier underneath to work on. Only real issues are at the back of the motor, but those can be overcome.
EDIT: I am somewhat concerned about hauling anything really heavy in the bed. If/when I do use the truck in that manner, I plan to fabricate a small steel framework for the bed to sit on. The riser mounts look really shaky at best, like if you were going to haul a slide in camper or such. I just don't think a body lift would be good for something like that.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
#13
With a body lift you won't need to do anything special to the shifter, other than maybe cut the metal opening some, I'm really not sure on that.
I really like where the **** is located on mine with the Body lift.
If you have 4x4, I forgot that I had to remove, heat, and bend the lever some, too, to make it work better.
I really like where the **** is located on mine with the Body lift.
If you have 4x4, I forgot that I had to remove, heat, and bend the lever some, too, to make it work better.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
#15