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1997 f250 body lift?s

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  #1  
Old 06-21-2011, 09:51 PM
jayz
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1997 f250 body lift?s

can anybody tell me why they dont sell body lifts for a diesel and will the gas model lift work on a diesel?
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:35 AM
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I think they dont offer the body lifts for diesels because the amount of weight that diesels encounter could be dangerous with the bodylift.

As for your questions about a gasser bodylift fitting. Yes the gasser body lift will fit. There's a couple of guys on here that have done a body lift.
 
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Old 06-23-2011, 07:34 PM
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cool thanks wanted to put a body lift to make it easyier to work on far as down pipe and turbo
 
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Old 06-23-2011, 08:01 PM
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if you do go with the body lift throw some pics up im considering doing it to mine to just to get some more lift but havent really seen many do them
 
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Old 06-23-2011, 09:32 PM
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the reason they dont offer the body lift for the diesels is just because of the mechanical fan. theres no room for play. you move the body up, you have to trim the shroud and because of that it reduces its cooling ability. ive done all 3 body lifts on mine and thats the only thing thats needed alteration unless you have a zf5. you have to extend and clock the shifter and if you go a full 3" then you need to trim your floor board for the t/c shifter cause it will hit before going into 2h. one thing you WILL wanna do if you do a body lift is get new rubber or poly body mount bushings. your rears sag really really bad. the longer the cab the worse it is. my rears were down over an inch and a half. your removing the bolts and lifting the cab anyways.... why not give it a better ride and level it back out right? for under 200 you can get a full poly kit. front, rear leafs and the body bushings from summitracing.com its well worth it. ive got some pics if you'd like
 
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:12 AM
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post them up im interested to see them. so how do you like the body lifts?
 
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:16 AM
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Oreo,
You are always full of great info. I would rep you but I can't right now. Thanks for being here.
 
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Old 06-24-2011, 08:49 AM
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:17 PM
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thanks guys. i try to help whenever i can... ive only got a couple pics, but here they are. i can take more if you wanna see more specific ones.

 
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by oreocreaming View Post
the reason they dont offer the body lift for the diesels is just because of the mechanical fan. theres no room for play. you move the body up, you have to trim the shroud and because of that it reduces its cooling ability. ive done all 3 body lifts on mine and thats the only thing thats needed alteration unless you have a zf5. you have to extend and clock the shifter and if you go a full 3" then you need to trim your floor board for the t/c shifter cause it will hit before going into 2h. one thing you WILL wanna do if you do a body lift is get new rubber or poly body mount bushings. your rears sag really really bad. the longer the cab the worse it is. my rears were down over an inch and a half. your removing the bolts and lifting the cab anyways.... why not give it a better ride and level it back out right? for under 200 you can get a full poly kit. front, rear leafs and the body bushings from summitracing.com its well worth it. ive got some pics if you'd like
I just ordered a 2 inch body lift for mine. Since its the 2 inch and not the 3, will i not have to mess with the transfer case? And does the same go for the shifter? Can anon explain what is meant by "clocking"?
 
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Old 07-18-2012, 06:27 AM
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I used the gasser body lift on mine 10 years ago.
Just cut the bottom of the fan shroud off. Makes getting the stupid thing on and off way easier anyway.

If you have a ZF then go with a short throw shifter and get 3/4" of the 3" lost in height back.

I also got "Gap Guards" to cover the gap between the frame and bed, and frame and front iner fenders. Most people don't even know there's a body lift on it.
I had to modify my front bumper to rise up a bit too look correct, and I modified my step bars, too, so that they worked better.
And I added a section of black alum running board (my truck is black) between the bed and rear bumper to hide that gap as well.

Overall the body lift makes just about everything easier underneath to work on. Only real issues are at the back of the motor, but those can be overcome.

EDIT: I am somewhat concerned about hauling anything really heavy in the bed. If/when I do use the truck in that manner, I plan to fabricate a small steel framework for the bed to sit on. The riser mounts look really shaky at best, like if you were going to haul a slide in camper or such. I just don't think a body lift would be good for something like that.
 
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Old 07-18-2012, 12:40 PM
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Thanks for the info Jim. So if i go with the short throw kit I won't need to extend it or anything?
 
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:21 PM
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With a body lift you won't need to do anything special to the shifter, other than maybe cut the metal opening some, I'm really not sure on that.
I really like where the **** is located on mine with the Body lift.

If you have 4x4, I forgot that I had to remove, heat, and bend the lever some, too, to make it work better.
 
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Old 07-18-2012, 05:19 PM
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If you have a fifth wheel or hideaway ball you'll need to do something about the brackets that mount to the frame
 
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Old 12-03-2013, 07:03 PM
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I'm planning on doing a 3 in body lift on my 5 speed 5.8 liter 97 f250 can anybody tell me if when I do it If I have to cut my wiring harness and what other problems might I run Into when I do this body lift
 
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