yeah, 1) he had a 4.0L which is much different than the earlier 3.0 ( I have a '95 4.0L Explorer) 2) he was rotating the nut the wrong way...

I'm not trying to separate the fan clutch from the fan - I will just reuse those, all I'm trying to do, is break loose the nut from the WP shaft.

not to beat a dead horse, but when the shroud says "left handed threads" (which mine does) this is referring to the nut attached to the W/P correct? not the fan clutch, or something else?

Also, I did just check - the wrench set I just get as a loan a tool will NOT work, because, as I thought, the nuts are not flush with the pulley, but inside... this makes sense, since the other side is also tapered like this, so that the w/p can allow the stack of pulleys to live there...

I'm thinking of getting 4 longer bolts, replacing them, and getting a long piece of angle or something to bolt there, and have it lock that piece against the frame... or chain it to the alt bracket...

do I at least hold the record for the longest OEM part on an Aerostar? 22 years on the same water pump! I can't wait to see the impeller... I bet it's almost all gone....

 

You are correct about the "Left Handed Threads" note on the fan shroud; it refers to the big nut of the fan clutch that tightens against the water pump.

I mentioned this before, but I think it bears repeating:

On engines with regular V belts, such as the early 3.0 liter engines, the water pump turns clockwise. So the big nut would have reversed (left hand) threads so as to allow it to automatically tighten up (or not loosen) with the rotation of the pump.

On engines with the serpentine belts (4.0 liter and later 3.0 liter engines), the water pump turns counter-clockwise. So the big nut would have normal (right hand) threads so as to prevent it from loosening with the rotation of the pump.

Just in case someone replaced the engine in your car with a different configuration.

 

Hi,

These are both serpentine belts, but the cowl states left handed threads - I know it's the original engine, since I bought it new in 1989

The cowl is original as well... again, I'm the only owner.

So, seems like this is an exception to the above. I'm guessing the 89 was still the original design that was used from new in 1986, with the 3.0L option that year - Wonder if any 2.3L Aeros are still kicking... I can't imagine that small of an engine for the weight of the van - the 3.0L is barely enough. LONG LIVE THE VULCAN

so, now my though is to find at least 2 longer bolts, and get a bracket to mount to the front pulley,and then chain that to something like the ALT bracket (something solid)

 

The serpentine belt is a single belt that runs over and under all the accessories, like this:

2003 Ford Ranger 3.0L | Serpentine Belt Diagrams

I don't think the 1989 3 liter engines came with one, especially it there are more than one belt.

 

If we are still sure that this is a left hand thread, I think my next plan of attack would be to use a propane torch and put a little heat on the nut.

 

I had thought of that too - using heat - just afraid since it's near the fuel lines that I'd do more harm than good....

I thought a serpentine belt is any belt that is flat with raised grooves? - vs a V belt that looks like a V, and uses tension.... My 1989 3.0 uses 2 serpentine belts....

 

The word "serpentine" for an accessory belt refers to how it is looped among the various pulleys so that you only need one single belt. Due to the number of accessories being driven, the belt has to take a circuitous path through the pulleys, and I think the most distinctive feature is it wraps around the water pump pulley with the back (smooth) side, turning it in reverse of the others. You can't do this with a traditional V-belt, but you can use flat multi-grooved belts in places where traditional V-belts were used, with the right pulleys.

Have you verified that the fan clutch tool can not grab onto those 4 bolt heads on the water pump pulley?

 

Thanks for the clarification on what makes a serpentine belt what it is... I thought it was because it was flat on one side and multi ridges one the other.... makes sense if it's only one belt - My 4.0 1995 Explorer has just the one belt, and uses a spring tensioner.

The Aerostar has a tension adjustment on the alt on a slide, where you loosen a set screw, and make your tight setting, and then lock the nut, so it can't move.

I actually like this design over the new spring tensioners, because you can decide how tight or loose you want the belt to be... the big draw back is that it takes a lot longer to do, and the long bolt can get rusted up pretty good!

The power steering belt has a tensioner pulley that adjusts with the square box of a 3/8 ratchet, and then has 2 screws that tighten...

Yes, the 4 bolts that are there for the pulley are not flush with the pulley, and therefore there is nothing for the wrenches to grab onto... they are recessed, not like the newer style WP pulleys, like the one in my explorer, that uses this style of design, and that wrench would work perfectly to hold it in place.

So, I got some chain, and a couple of brackets, and some longer M8mm bolts that will allow more room for the brackets to bolt onto the front of the pulleys.... plus this doesn't risk ruining the good bolts and the new WP's threads.. just need a place to hook the chain to, where it won't bend something, or slip... I'm thinking alt bracket somehow.just need that 1/8th of a turn to break it lose :-)

 

Can you remove the water pump with the fan attached? I got good advice on FTE about removing the radiator and shroud to get more room for wp removal. This allowed me to get the whole assembly off as a unit. I traced the replacement pump on its' cardboard box and punched through the bolt holes on the pump and tracing to stick the bolts in as they came out so they wouldn't get mixed up. The fan was easily removed on a bench vise and could've been reused had it not been cracked. The clutch was in good shape and was re-installed.
I can't imagine the hassle I would have put myself through if I did not take off the radiator and shroud. Much easier taking the fan off away from the engine since the wp is being replaced anyway

 

Hi, I had thought about that, but then, you still have to get the fan off the old wp.

That's what I was planning to do actually on the bolts though - very good advice - I did that before with push rods on a chevy engine, as the intake rods were different than the exhaust - and they were different from left side to right side...

I planned on taking out the shroud with the fan, since you can't remove it otherwise - did you have to take off the Alt bracket? - it almost looks like it too is bolted to the WP - this is the 3.0 now, not the 4.0

The alt is actually more in the way than anything else... figures that I JUST replaced the radiator and Alt last year... those were both "fun" jobs

if the fan and the shroud come out, I can get to the WP ok... my biggest concern after that, will be seeing how the new gasket lines up, etc... I was thinking of tacking it to the new unit with some black RTV high Temp gasket stuff... just a little between each hole, to hold the new gasket in place.

Did you have to use any pipe dope for any of the bolts?

Thanks

 

oh, sorry, I misread - you said it came right off on a bench vise - makes sense - where did you hold it so it wouldn't move? the impeller, and face up?

 

I cranked the old wp in the vise and turned the clutch with a strap wrench (less than ten bucks at Home Depot). I immobilized the impeller (screw driver?) and the clutch/fan turned easily when loosened in the proper direction. On the 4.0l with a serp belt, the fan with the wp attached came off easily because I could access all the wp bolts. This wouldn't work unless the radiator and shroud were removed. No brackets were in my way. One tug and the wp came off.

I don't recall which adhesive I used on the gasket but do remember polishing the sh** out of the mating surface. Probably was lucky in being so careful. It did not leak. I'm glad I replaced the thermostat while I was doing the job. The heater in the truck hasn't worked all that well for years and I expect a change in that this winter.

A mechanic buddy advised against any sealant on the wp bolts. I was expecting to have to clean something off the bolts as they came out, but since they came out clean I took his advice and re-installed them as is.

 

The factory calls for using sealant on some of the bolts. (I think the ones that call for sealant are the ones that extend into the water jacket.)
What was your friends logic in not sealing these bolts as called out by the factory?

 

Don't know about any logic. I trusted his experience and the fact I didn't see sealant on the bolts. I'm not recommending anything to anyone, just stating how I did the work. If I find out soon that I was wrong I will be the first to let everybody know.

 

and, the 4.0L is different than the 3.0... I have a 4.0L explorer, and the bolts on that pulley are raised on top, and would be a breeze to loosen the nut, since they make a square type wrench for this purpose that boxes in those bolts, allowing you to hold the pulley while you break it loose... I rented it, so I know :-) no use to the 3L since these are recessed.

I worked on my wife's car tonight - FINALLY got the AC working right... HVAC vaccum line was broken in 1/2... amazing how fragile those lines are... and tiny...

So, Bad, I may just end up doing it your way! hehe - but I would love to hear from anyone else that ever did this job on the 3.0L with the pulley bolts recessed, and has a long neck type nut at the rear of the fan... I should take a couple of photos....

I really hate to pull the radiator if I don't have to... the shroud is off and waiting for the fan.

One other question - how much torque do you need to reattach? - just bring it home tight? or really get on it? I would think that it self tightens over time, since it has left handed threads...

Thanks