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That is a BIG lie. If they told you that...Sorry they lied.
I did mine with cab on installed ARP head studs, truck went in my garage on a Saturday, rolled out on the next Saturday. Thats with having the heads checked.
You will need to have that stud and the one next to it zip tied in the head as u set in on the truck. just have the studs so they are not quite thru the bottom of the head. and you will also need to use an air hammer or something like that to pound in the fire wall a bit so you can get a socket on the nut to tighten it down
I have done it this way on the last three that I have done. It is possible just not a whole lot of room to torque them down.
I Pulled my driverside frame mount off an used a floorjack to move the motor up to do driver side studs an dropped motor down on cross member to do passenger side studs. They add dropped in fine an I used a 2 foot long cheater pipe on my torque wrench to pull my studs to 220 LBs.
I Pulled my driverside frame mount off an used a floorjack to move the motor up to do driver side studs an dropped motor down on cross member to do passenger side studs. They add dropped in fine an I used a 2 foot long cheater pipe on my torque wrench to pull my studs to 220 LBs.
You and me both. It would be a PITA without one. Props to anyone who doesn't need a cheater bar
Just to note, that the illustrations in that thread pertain to a 2004 model. 2005 to 2007 models use a different power steering reservoir and ABS HCU setup.
Just to note, that the illustrations in that thread pertain to a 2004 model. 2005 to 2007 models use a different power steering reservoir and ABS HCU setup.
It really amounts to a choice. My 57 year old back likes the cab off!