Sounds like my front wheel bearing is starting to make noise at 102k on my 2004 v10 4x4 X. Anyone have suggestions for where to purchase/brand to use?

 

I just did the ball joints on my truck. I ended up replacing one of the axle needle bearings on the backside of the hub bearing. You might check that first. I have yet to replace the hub bearing so I can't give you advice on which ones to go with. They run about $200.00 on up...

 

I just ordered the premium hub assemblys from Napa. Part Number BRG BR930420, List price is $384, if you know somebody at the store you may be able to get them for $260.00+/-. Searched on here and a few other places and the reviews for the knock off were not favorable. I hope they are worth it.

 

I've always had good luck with FTE sponsor Rock Auto. Haven't bought Ex wheel bearings, but have bought lots of other stuff.

 

I just replaced the wheel hub bearing assemblies on my Ex two weeks ago. I looked up various auto parts stores and found Autozone carries Timken brand bearings (one of the best). They were also fairly cheap at $260? I think. Rock Auto had them cheaper but I needed to replace the bearings ASAP.

 

Come October I will have 2 yrs on my new from eBay hubs. 100 each shipped. This is one that I'm winning on, but most go the timken route.

 

I used the Napa part (don;t remember the actual brand name) on a 2000 7.3 PSD with 106,000 miles about 6 months ago. My cost was around $170 (it was a city purchase). Works well and was an easy swap considering the abuse this truck has had over the years.

 

So I asked my buddy who has a shop if he could order the part for me... and he said the parts place said there is a coarse thread and fine thread option. WTH!! Anybody know if there is a way to tell the difference without taking it all apart? And is it talking about the lug studs or the studs holding the bearing assembly to the spindle?

 

early SD and X had course thread lug bolts, and then i think in late 2002 or 2003 they went to a fine thread bolt. pop off your chrome hub cover and look at the threads, are they course or fine?

 

Thanks superdutyscaler. Mine look like fine threads. I have hit a little problem. I don't have a socket to get the nut behind the 4x4 hub off. Anyone know what size it is off the top of their head?

 

It's just a snap ring. Remove the ring with snap ring pliars or do the two small screw driver trick. The nut you are seeing is just a washer, and make sure you put them back in the same order you took them off.

 

I just got in the mail today my Timken 4X4 with ABS hub, will put in on in a couple hours. Ordered in online by searching Google Shopping got it for $215 shipped

 

haha yeah! that washer shaped as a hex nut faked me out!

 

haha funny I was doing the same thing today, snap ring was a pain for me, and the spacers after that were fine, behind the assembly was toast though it was all warped and smashed in, there was a spacer back there that was cracked in half, so I hope it's easy to pick one of them up.

 

I did the passenger side ball joints while I was changing the bearing. They looked like they might be original at 103k. The upper ball joint was completely destroyed.

<P>Wheel bearing off.<P>

<P>
<P>Axle shaft out. I wonder why it is necked down like that?... so we know where it will break!<P>

<p>
<P>Axle shaft out part 2. Race for the needle bearing on the back side of the wheel bearing is in good shape.<P>

<P>
<P>Spindle off.<P>

<P>
<P>Old ball joints removed from spindle.<P>

<P>
<P>NEW UPPER/OLD UPPER/OLD LOWER/NEW LOWER<P>

<P>
<P>New ball joints installed in spindle.<P>
<P>
<P>
So.... I thought my steering box needed to be tightened because of the play in the steering wheel (about one inch either direction before vehicle would start to turn) but it was all that slop in the ball joint. Steering feel is fantastic now.