Are any of these things useful to me? (First junkyard trip)
#1
Are any of these things useful to me? (First junkyard trip)
So I tracked down my nearest junk yard and took a stroll through there today. I knew (very roughly) that I'm looking for a carburetor similar to my existing one and a duraspark 2 ignition system. Can you guys help me identify the stuff that I found? I took pictures!
For reference, here's my existing carburetor:
1) here's what I think is the most promising, is this the duraspark 2 ignition piece that I will need?
2) here is the carburetor that I found in a ford granada(sp?) that appeared visually to be most like my current one. The engine also was the same style as mine:
And here are some various other carburetors and ignition system looking things that I saw. Are any of these useful to me?
Ignitions?
Carbs
(this one is from the same motor as the duraspark ignition from above)
For reference, here's my existing carburetor:
1) here's what I think is the most promising, is this the duraspark 2 ignition piece that I will need?
2) here is the carburetor that I found in a ford granada(sp?) that appeared visually to be most like my current one. The engine also was the same style as mine:
And here are some various other carburetors and ignition system looking things that I saw. Are any of these useful to me?
Ignitions?
Carbs
(this one is from the same motor as the duraspark ignition from above)
#2
The carb off the Granada might work, but it is designed for a smaller engine, most likely a 200 or 250 CID engine, so it would need some modification to work on the 300 CID you have, I'd keep looking for one off the same engine as you have.
A few of those other carbs look good, but wouldn't work on your truck unless you got an adapter, etc. They are great carbs, (I have one myself) but installing one on your motor would be a bit advanced for a starting project, and they would most likely need to be modified, as most of them look like they are currently on larger engines. Keep them in mind for later though, you might want to swap one on eventually.
As for the duraspark box, you'd need that, and the actual distributor from off the engine, but other then that, I don't know much about it. Better wait for someone that knows them a bit better to chime in.
Sam
A few of those other carbs look good, but wouldn't work on your truck unless you got an adapter, etc. They are great carbs, (I have one myself) but installing one on your motor would be a bit advanced for a starting project, and they would most likely need to be modified, as most of them look like they are currently on larger engines. Keep them in mind for later though, you might want to swap one on eventually.
As for the duraspark box, you'd need that, and the actual distributor from off the engine, but other then that, I don't know much about it. Better wait for someone that knows them a bit better to chime in.
Sam
#3
The carb off the Granada might work, but it is designed for a smaller engine, most likely a 200 or 250 CID engine, so it would need some modification to work on the 300 CID you have, I'd keep looking for one off the same engine as you have.
A few of those other carbs look good, but wouldn't work on your truck unless you got an adapter, etc. They are great carbs, (I have one myself) but installing one on your motor would be a bit advanced for a starting project. Keep them in mind for later though, you might want to swap one on eventually.
As for the duraspark box, you'd need that, and the actual distributor from off the engine, but other then that, I don't know much about it. Better wait for someone that knows them a bit better to chime in.
Sam
A few of those other carbs look good, but wouldn't work on your truck unless you got an adapter, etc. They are great carbs, (I have one myself) but installing one on your motor would be a bit advanced for a starting project. Keep them in mind for later though, you might want to swap one on eventually.
As for the duraspark box, you'd need that, and the actual distributor from off the engine, but other then that, I don't know much about it. Better wait for someone that knows them a bit better to chime in.
Sam
And wrt to the durashock, I know it's called the durashock 2 conversion... but that picture only says durashock on it, no 2. Is that an issue?
#4
Well, the give away was the car it's in. I've read around and Ford had the two series of inline 6 engines, the "small six" (if memory serves Ford made a 144, 170, 200 and 250 CID of them) and then theres the "Big six" family, the 240 and 300 CID engines. Generally, the trucks and vans got the "big six", whereas the cars all got the "small six" in one of it's variety. There are a few exceptions, but thay aren't common enough to worry about. The 240 big six was discontinued in 75 and isn't that common, so if you find a ford truck or van with an inline 6, you'll be looking at a 300 CID.
As far as the Duraspark goes, I don't know, my only experience is with old style breaker point ignition.
Sam
As far as the Duraspark goes, I don't know, my only experience is with old style breaker point ignition.
Sam
#5
I have NEVER seen any of those boxes with any sort of 2 or II on them, most people say to pay attention to the color of the plastic grommet where the wires protrude from the box.
Should be blue.
Most guys are going to say to use a Motorcraft box and to avoid the Chinese-made replacements.
In preparation for this conversion, you might start paying close attention to the wiring harness you'll need and pick one up sooner rather than later if you run across one in good shape.
There's some good info on this conversion in the 80-86 sticky, possibly in this forum here, too.
#6
I wondered the same thing the first time I learned of it....
I have NEVER seen any of those boxes with any sort of 2 or II on them, most people say to pay attention to the color of the plastic grommet where the wires protrude from the box.
Should be blue.
Most guys are going to say to use a Motorcraft box and to avoid the Chinese-made replacements.
In preparation for this conversion, you might start paying close attention to the wiring harness you'll need and pick one up sooner rather than later if you run across one in good shape.
There's some good info on this conversion in the 80-86 sticky, possibly in this forum here, too.
I have NEVER seen any of those boxes with any sort of 2 or II on them, most people say to pay attention to the color of the plastic grommet where the wires protrude from the box.
Should be blue.
Most guys are going to say to use a Motorcraft box and to avoid the Chinese-made replacements.
In preparation for this conversion, you might start paying close attention to the wiring harness you'll need and pick one up sooner rather than later if you run across one in good shape.
There's some good info on this conversion in the 80-86 sticky, possibly in this forum here, too.
#7
Here's a question I thought of earlier today. There are only really two junk yards in my area. There is the one I went to yesterday and a slightly larger one I plan on going to today. If I can't find a DS2 era carb at either place, can I just buy one online?
I'd feel a lot more awesome being able to say that I pulled it myself... but I'd also like to have a running truck =P
I did some looking around and it seems like either <a href="http://www.carb-x.com/domestic-carburetors/ford-trucks/6-cylinder-engine/240ci-300ci/13-571">this</a> or <a href="http://www.carb-x.com/domestic-carburetors/ford-trucks/6-cylinder-engine/240ci-300ci/13-647ec">this</a> would work. However, I'm not familiar with a lot of the terms they're using to describe the carbs. I know I don't want feedback, but things like TPS, electric vs. manual vs. hot air vs. climactic choke, overdrive vs. no overdrive, etc. are still foreign to me.
So, if I go yank that ignition system out of that truck today, could I just buy a carb online that will work with it? If so, what (specifically) do I need to get to make sure that it will work nicely?
I'd feel a lot more awesome being able to say that I pulled it myself... but I'd also like to have a running truck =P
I did some looking around and it seems like either <a href="http://www.carb-x.com/domestic-carburetors/ford-trucks/6-cylinder-engine/240ci-300ci/13-571">this</a> or <a href="http://www.carb-x.com/domestic-carburetors/ford-trucks/6-cylinder-engine/240ci-300ci/13-647ec">this</a> would work. However, I'm not familiar with a lot of the terms they're using to describe the carbs. I know I don't want feedback, but things like TPS, electric vs. manual vs. hot air vs. climactic choke, overdrive vs. no overdrive, etc. are still foreign to me.
So, if I go yank that ignition system out of that truck today, could I just buy a carb online that will work with it? If so, what (specifically) do I need to get to make sure that it will work nicely?
Trending Topics
#8
The choke on an engine is a butterfly valve (the big flapper on top) built into the carburetor that will partially close to change the air fuel mixture going to the engine, and does this because the engine likes a "rich" (more fuel for same amount of air) before it warms up. Once then engine warms up the choke then opens and the engine will run off the normal air/fuel mixture.
The difference between the choke types are:
manual: the driver manually operates the choke through a cable in the cab
climatic/hot air: works off of air fed to the choke mechanism through a tube from the exhaust manifold. There is a metal coil inside the black plastic choke housing that will expand with heat, and retract with cold, which opens and closes the choke.
electric: uses a signal from the voltage regulator to operate the choke electronicly
I think that just about covers it for the choke.
Overdrive is an extra gear in the transmission that is extra high for freeway cruising. On the carb exchange they were talking about the AOD (automatic overdrive) transmission, which is a specific Ford transmission. Is your truck auto or manual? If it's a manual, then any of the carbs for a 300 CID will work, if it's an automatic, you need to get one for your specific transmission. Read up on this site if you have an automatic, you should be able to figure out which one you have. Automatic Transmission Identification Guide - FORDification.com
Sam
The difference between the choke types are:
manual: the driver manually operates the choke through a cable in the cab
climatic/hot air: works off of air fed to the choke mechanism through a tube from the exhaust manifold. There is a metal coil inside the black plastic choke housing that will expand with heat, and retract with cold, which opens and closes the choke.
electric: uses a signal from the voltage regulator to operate the choke electronicly
I think that just about covers it for the choke.
Overdrive is an extra gear in the transmission that is extra high for freeway cruising. On the carb exchange they were talking about the AOD (automatic overdrive) transmission, which is a specific Ford transmission. Is your truck auto or manual? If it's a manual, then any of the carbs for a 300 CID will work, if it's an automatic, you need to get one for your specific transmission. Read up on this site if you have an automatic, you should be able to figure out which one you have. Automatic Transmission Identification Guide - FORDification.com
Sam
#10
#11
Here's a question I thought of earlier today. There are only really two junk yards in my area. There is the one I went to yesterday and a slightly larger one I plan on going to today. If I can't find a DS2 era carb at either place, can I just buy one online?
I'd feel a lot more awesome being able to say that I pulled it myself... but I'd also like to have a running truck =P
I did some looking around and it seems like either this or this would work. However, I'm not familiar with a lot of the terms they're using to describe the carbs. I know I don't want feedback, but things like TPS, electric vs. manual vs. hot air vs. climactic choke, overdrive vs. no overdrive, etc. are still foreign to me.
So, if I go yank that ignition system out of that truck today, could I just buy a carb online that will work with it? If so, what (specifically) do I need to get to make sure that it will work nicely?
I'd feel a lot more awesome being able to say that I pulled it myself... but I'd also like to have a running truck =P
I did some looking around and it seems like either this or this would work. However, I'm not familiar with a lot of the terms they're using to describe the carbs. I know I don't want feedback, but things like TPS, electric vs. manual vs. hot air vs. climactic choke, overdrive vs. no overdrive, etc. are still foreign to me.
So, if I go yank that ignition system out of that truck today, could I just buy a carb online that will work with it? If so, what (specifically) do I need to get to make sure that it will work nicely?
#12
Yes, you can buy a remanufactured carb online that should be easier to use than a junkyard carb. It would cost you under $200 if you chose just the stock single-barrel Carter YFA like the one you have now, just an earlier version from the pre-feedback era. They are reliable carbs, not performance, just reliable.
#13
The only drawbacks to having a C6, is the lack of a lock-up converter and no OD, which hurt the MPG of whatever it is used in.
The same basic transmission that was used behind 400HP 428's and 429's now resides behind your 300. You won't tear it up. You might wear it out, but you are not gonna hurt it by working hard, unless you overheat it, and that's not easy to do without a rather heavy load tied to it.
I had mine rebuilt a few years back. The guy who rebuilt it showed me the internals that came out, and said it shouldn't have even been able to pull itself, much less the trailer and car that had been loaded on it just 2 weeks earlier. He knew about that particular workload, since he was standing on the trailer adjusting the valves on the engine in the car, so we could drive it off the trailer, at the racetrack 100 miles from home.
As he put it, the only explanation for how it still worked was a 4 letter word, and he pointed at the tailgate......
So, yes, I'd say it's a good thing. What do you think?
#14
The legendary C6 is second to none, when it comes to strength and durability. It was used behind the monster V8's from the mid 60's, thru the 70's, and well into the 80's behind 300 I6's to 460 V8's, and even the 6.9/7.3L diesel's. It finally met it's demise in the 90's, when MPG became an important factor.
The only drawbacks to having a C6, is the lack of a lock-up converter and no OD, which hurt the MPG of whatever it is used in.
The same basic transmission that was used behind 400HP 428's and 429's now resides behind your 300. You won't tear it up. You might wear it out, but you are not gonna hurt it by working hard, unless you overheat it, and that's not easy to do without a rather heavy load tied to it.
I had mine rebuilt a few years back. The guy who rebuilt it showed me the internals that came out, and said it shouldn't have even been able to pull itself, much less the trailer and car that had been loaded on it just 2 weeks earlier. He knew about that particular workload, since he was standing on the trailer adjusting the valves on the engine in the car, so we could drive it off the trailer, at the racetrack 100 miles from home.
As he put it, the only explanation for how it still worked was a 4 letter word, and he pointed at the tailgate......
So, yes, I'd say it's a good thing. What do you think?
The only drawbacks to having a C6, is the lack of a lock-up converter and no OD, which hurt the MPG of whatever it is used in.
The same basic transmission that was used behind 400HP 428's and 429's now resides behind your 300. You won't tear it up. You might wear it out, but you are not gonna hurt it by working hard, unless you overheat it, and that's not easy to do without a rather heavy load tied to it.
I had mine rebuilt a few years back. The guy who rebuilt it showed me the internals that came out, and said it shouldn't have even been able to pull itself, much less the trailer and car that had been loaded on it just 2 weeks earlier. He knew about that particular workload, since he was standing on the trailer adjusting the valves on the engine in the car, so we could drive it off the trailer, at the racetrack 100 miles from home.
As he put it, the only explanation for how it still worked was a 4 letter word, and he pointed at the tailgate......
So, yes, I'd say it's a good thing. What do you think?
#15
<O</O
The DS2 engine harness will be the hardest thing to find. You will need one of a 4.9 80-83 F150 or Bronco. Here is a photo of one I pick up this month. If I see one at the JY I get it to help out other that haven’t been able to get one. Here is a link with info.
<O</O
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9967857
Here is a photo of the engine harness I just got, this is what you will need to get at the junk yard.
.
.
.
JY DS2 IGN shopping list
4.9 Engine DS2 harness
Round coil w/bracket and coil wire
Distributor
Blue grommet DS2 module
Good luck
JIm