my guess is going to be the STC fitting. this is a newer truck that i bought to fix and sell and thats the only problem with it. it has studs, bulletproof egr, and the whole 9 yards. but it has never had the STC fitting update. i know the machanic that did all the work and he is my machanic too. he thinks its the HPOP or the fitting bacause the truck went 9k miles on this past oil change. the guy got all that fixed (new standpipe, filter, things like that) so with that being said what do yall think?

 

Mine had severly blown O rings on the Standpipes and Dummy Plugs! Cheezit walked me through it, My truck starts excellent now! Mine started hard cold, (still started) but if it was hot, You just held the key and hoped for it too light!

 

If you dont mind me asking how much you paid for it? you can PM me..

I am taking it you are going to turn around and make profit off of it?

Which is really cool, I love doing that.

 

IF you can monitor the ICP crankng it will at least give you a clue PLUS the good ole air test will tell you a lot and it's quick. And yes, I'm saying STC fitting also.

 

06 no start hot, STC fitting is a pretty good guess. Like partsman mentioned, a few simple tests would help.

 

how do you check it with air? also i know alot of parts on the 6.0 but i have always wondered where the standpipe and dummy plugs are. isnt the standpipe the deal in the middle of the oil filter? if so that was just replaced not 50 miles ago

 

As far as checkin with air, I never did it. i only know what cheezit told me, You need to remove the airfilter too turbo piping, (so you can listen for leaks, than on the otherside you listen through the oil filler. You need an adapter too fit where the ICP goes, and you need an inert gas, regulated too 100psi. Than you need too control your IPR too full closed and send air too listen for leaks. I am sure I missed alot or something! The standpipes and Dummy Plugs are under the valve covers, they go through the ouil rails. It took me probably 10hrs (not working too hard and being extra careful) too replace these. If this was a truck you were keeping, I would say too put them in as preventative maintanence, but since you are selling, just replacing what is bad is best for Your bottom line!

 

The high pressure stand pipes go from the oil rail on top of the injectors down into the motor. They are two pieces and have o-rings on them.
To air test the HPO system you remove the ICP sensor in the valve cover and stick a fitting or air chuck in it then use a piece of tubing or stethascope to listen for the leak. If it comes from the center under the turbo it's probably the STC. Either valve cover it's a dummy plug or stand pipe.

 

The stand pipes are under your valve (edit) covers on the cab end of the heads. The dummy plugs are on the front end of the heads. All vey easy to replace, except for the passenger side stand pipe. It has to be separated removing and installing. Still not that big of a deal...

Edited my post- smart phone and fat fingers.... :/

 

awesome. so is there a fitting i need or can i just stick a air chuck on there and go? also how do i shut off the IPR or does that need to be done. if i unplug it will it shut it off? and does this need to be done with the key on or off?

 

and thanks for the info! i thought it might have been those. so the dummy plugs are the bolt head looking things on the oil rails? and i have 2 standpipes from my brothers build so if i can find the o rings for them then hopefully i dont have to buy anything!

 

Just an add, on my P side standpipe, I had to remove the oilrail too take the old one out, I also had too re remove the oil rail too get the new bottom half in. It was too long too fit between the heaterbox and down in its home. It was a PITA! Drivers side is easy, as there is a mile of room!

 

yea i have done injectors on my truck and the passenger side sucks!

 

Well looking down at your heads the dummy plugs and stand pipes look the same, they have an allen head, the stocks are 10mm IIRC, and the new are 13mm.

 

You need a fitting too pressurize the system. You need too hook a power source too the IPR to close it. I would imagine the garages have some sorta software too do it from a machine. DONT COMMAND IT ON FOR MORE THAN A MINUTE, MINUTE AND A HALF, OR YOU WILL BURN IT UP!