Ok guys About a few months ago I redid the brake system in the truck. everything but the lines. New booster, master cylinder, vacuim pump, rear wheel cylinders, front calibers.

When I bought the truck It need rear brakes so I replaced the pads, wheel cylinders, drums and adjusters. This made stoping much better. A few weeks later I hung a front caliber up and toasted the shoes and rotors. So redid the front brakes. Then the master cylinder took a crap and while I was doing I just did the Booster too. A few months later the Vacuim pump bearing goes. SO that how I end up with a new brake job.


A few weeks ago I noticed the truck like to push when I come to a stop. Like it only stoping on front brakes. Then it stated acting a few days later like it was locking the rear brakes up and will skid. Today I drove another 96er gas and it seamed to me it brake petel was way harder then mine! Mine doesn't act like a bad master cylinder just that it goes way down to the floor, but stays hard.

So,
What the proper way to adjust the rear brakes?

Could it be the rear tires? Running 2 different tires and one getting bald.

How could I make the brake petel harder?


Topic 2

When I got the truck it would aways spin both back tires. aways, I could burn both leaving marks. Well the other day in the dirt behing the garage it only spun the one. I was not thinking much of it but now it got me thinking. I did have the one wheel seal changed at the shop. Could it be they didn't top the rear off?


What would casue this. Still tows and drive great!

 

You probably had limited slip in the rear, and over time, using two different rear tires in the back killed your limited slip. Now you only burn one tire and effectively have an open differential. That's just a guess, since you said your rear tires are not the same.

 

Well They are the same size tire, just diiferent treat pateren. Both an A/t tire! So I can't see that!

 

Tires size is somewhat relative. Two tires of the same size but different brand can be as much as a half inch different in height/width. If you put mismatched tires on the front and your vehicle could easily have a pull to one side or the other. On the rear and you are over working your spider gears and hurting the limited slip if equipped.

 

You are right. You can not run any kind of different tires o the same axle. It will trash the limited slip. There are height differences and that means different revolutions per mile. It will trash a limited slip real fast. If it were a locker like mine something would end up breaking. My son ran one bald one and one half new one just for a few weeks and completely fried the clutches on his rear end. It takes very little slippage on them to do it. As for the brakes grabbing and stuff, I'd say the extra heat from the clutch packs slipping probably trashed a wheel seal. Or the mechanic, and I use that term very loosely lately, probably didn't properly adjust the one he replaced. There is a specific procedure for it. I will guarantee you that not even most ford mechanics do it right!

 

My limited slip died for no apparent reason in both my trucks. As far as I'm concerned, if you so much as look at a limited slip rear end the wrong way, the limited slip will die.

 

Jack up the rear tires and turn the tire by hand at the same time tighten the adjusters. Tighten them is when you hear the clicking and it is easy to turn. Handle of screwdriver goes down on both sides. As soon as you can feel a tiny bit of resistance on your tire like the brake shoe is holding back they are tight enough do the other side same way. Press the brake pedal hard a few times and re check it then may need a couple more clicks. This should get rid of brake pedal travel and the locking up at the same time. When the rear brakes are out of adjustment they will start locking up for some reason that I'm not exactly sure of. The rabs valve can be a part of the problem as well.

 

I had a Ford that would always seem to introduce air into.the rear brake system. I never did figure out why it did that. But I just had to bleed and tighten the rear brake system about once a week. I finally put a hydroboost and master cylinder from a super duty with rear disc brakes and I never had problems with brakes again! It was a junk yard 100 dollar special

 

So after the landscaping trailer almost pushing the truck threw a red light. I figured it be a good time to look at it. I started off with pulling the driver side tire and finding it got something in it. I think or maybe it the dry rot! LOL But it got a very slow leak. New tires next week. Then I start smelling gear oil. Well the new wheel seal that was installed by a small shop in town leaks. Well the pads are covered in oil. So I know that one problem.

Then I get to the other side. I pulled the tire and drum. To find a brake shoe that was missing the lining! The other one was all craked up. I'm guessing this was the soft petal. I replaced the pads and will take a picture tomorrow. The auto store are warrenty the shoes.


I will be stoping at the shop tomorrow to find if they are warrenting there work.


Thanks for all the help guys!

 

Any pictures or write up of your hydroboost conversion? I am sick of the crappy feeling vacuum assist break pedal.

 

Just get a hb system from a super duty truck and put it on there. It's not really any harder than putting on a regular booster and power steering hose. I got the setup if ya wanna buy it. 150 (:

 

What's included? I have read the rod needs to be longer then the original and some mounting holes moved or elongated. What about hoses?

 

No need to move or elongated anything. Bolts right up. I got all the hoses too... well I say I do let me double check everything. Pm me