I agree, indeed the hardest working engine is a common lawnmower engine, Briggs & Stratton ect. I'm also told that Honda is making some great small engines for lawn equipment, although I have never owned a yard product with a Honda engine.

I did see first hand a few years back the difference between using a normal dino oil in a lawnmower, and a brand name synthetic. For years, when I would change the oil (dino) at the end of the cutting season - usually around Thanksgiving here in northern CA, the oil was always black, like "Texas Tea" and while it still may of been okay, it just seemed to beg to "change me". Using a synthetic oil in the lawnmower for a cutting season, I was stunned when I drained it out at the end of the cutting season - it was slightly darker than new, but still had that good oil look and feel to it. I have no doubt I could easily go another cutting season or two with this oil - seems the synthetic could easily handle the high heat conditions generated by an air cooled 4-cycle engine.

Meanwhile, my Explorer Sport is running fine with the Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 - nearly 2,000 miles on the oil, and it's still so clear I can barely see it on the dipstick.

Happy summertime everyone, drive safely.

Ed

 

Ed, have you noticed any difference in engine noise on a cold start, or @ warm idle, ect, since using the Ultra????

 

Paw Paw, not really. I've always had a bit of slight valvetrain clatter at startup. Took it to the dealer within 1,000 miles after I bought it. They pulled the valve covers and checked - all were adjusted to factory specs. They said it was the metal type used in the valvetrain, nothing to worry about - I had them write that in their findings on my work order. Plus, I was there when they were doing the work, the sevice manager walked me back to the Explorer and I was able to see it with the valve covers off. Again, it's nothing "loud" just a slight clatter at cold start-up that goes away and at idle it sounds normal. My 3.0 V6 Aerostar did the same thing.

With this Pennzoil Ultra, the engine turns over quickly and starts immediately, even after the Explorer's been sitting in the garage for a week. One thing I've noticed too is to stick my index finger inside the tailpipe - it's clean, no residue or anything. Hence, I am sure the emissions and exhaust system is performing as it should, cats getting hot and burning away any byproducts of combustion within specs. I'm content with this Pennzoil Ultra.
Idle, when hot, seems normal and okay, even with the AC running.

Ed

 

OK, would be interesting to know which engine you have in the SportTrack & the oil filter your using????

 

It's not a SportTrac but rather a 2000 FORD EXPLORER SPORT. This is the shorter wheelbase Explorer, a 2-DOOR.
Engine is the 4.0L V6
Oil Filter on right now is the MOTORCRAFT FL1-A

Ed

 

OK, it's the ohc 4.0L with a Motorcraft FL-1A filter, so the start up rattle isn't likely being caused by the filter.

Long story with positive results:

The 4.0L is known to suffer from CCDI = Combustion Chamber Deposit Interferrence, in which case, because of poor factory control of part tolerance build up, cyl head & piston crown deposit loading can cause contact, until the engine warms some & things expand such that clearance is enough for the contact through the pston crown & head deposit loading to stop.

Ford has a TSB out for de-carboning the 4.0L to treat this problem.

They even changed my then new 99 pushrod 4.0L engine out for a new crate engine when it was only a month old, because they thought the knock was a wrist pin problem!!!!!

Wasn't long before the new engine was doing it too. They then performed the TSB decarb proceedure under warranty & it stopped the cold start up knock for about 5-6 weeks, but it returned.

Their decarb proceedure calls for ingesting 3 cans of Motorcraft PM-3 carb cleaner through a vacuum line, with soak periods in between cans, followed by 3 mile long runs with rpm above 3600, then a spark plug, oil, & filter change, a danged expensive decarb proceedure, that didn't last for me.

SO, I developed one thats less expensive, no oil, filter, or spark plug change needed afterward, it lasts longer, but takes a little more time to accomplish & thats to use a 20oz can of Techron Concentrate Plus in the gas tank, before filling up at the pump, so I get good mixing, Then do Fords decarb TSB daily 3 mile run with rpm above 3600 part, during the treated tank & run most of the trated tank out.
This along with changing brands of gas every 6 months, that have different ad pack chemistry, so that one brands ad pack chemistry cleans out the others deposits, has kept my pushrod 4.0L CCDI knock free for 10 years now!!!!!

SO, if you think CCDI is a possibility, consider giving the 20oz Techron Concentrate Plus & daily high rpm treatment a try & see if you get positive results.

If you have Chevron, or Texaco gas in your area, it already has Techron in it, so with the 20oz size Techron in a 20gal tank, it'll raise the treat rate 10x above pump gas alone & usually gets the job done in one tank!!!!

We used to have Texaco & Chevron stations here & I initially used them, but all have since pulled out & no longer market fuel in my area, so now I'm in the fuel survey mode all over again, & it looks like Shell is going to be ok for me to use, as I've been using it for a year without problems & now that EXXON is a top tier fuel, I'm gonna try them again as my other 6 month go-to fuel, to try & keep my 4.0L CCDI knock free.

I also ran into a start-up rattle/knock problem about 15-20 seconds after an oil & filter change, that I have been able to avoid by doing my oil & filter change in a particular sequence. First drain the oil pan, but don't wait for every last drop to drip out, then without delay, refill the pan, saving one qt for the filter. Then completely fill the new filter right up to the top of the mounting threads, by inserting a screw driver or the like, into the filters anti-drainback valve to lift it, so it can burp the air out as the filter is filled from the center hole.
If we'll put the filled filter upside down in it's box, so the open end is facing up, the box will keep it upright so it won't tip over & the lid will keep it clean until we're ready to install it.

With the new filter pre-filled with oil, remove the old oil filter & without delay install the new prefilled filter. This is easy to do as the 4.0L's oil filter is mounted inverted, with the closed end down.
All this to help prevent the oil pump from loosing it's prime, or an empty oil filter inducing a slug of air into the oiling system on a restart.
This routine has eliminated my post oil & filter change start up marble noise/knock, that would go on for days sometimes, before it would finally go away.
Apparently an oil bubble was being trapped in the end of an oil gallery some where & causing mischief.

Anyway, if any of these sound like your start up noise problem, consider giving them a try.

A bunch of 4.0L thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.

 

Well here is some more info on Shells Pearl GTL plants expected output of super duper gp-3 base oil & it looks like it'll begin next month & ramp up from there. SO, it looks like Ultra doesn't have any of it in it's formulation yet!!!!!
They sure are singing it's praises, when properly formulated with the right additives, so maybe Pearl will make a base oil that'll make a finished product, that'll make a go of it & be competative with other synthetics on the market. Will be interesting to see how it all shakes out & how Chevron, EXXON, Phillips, ect react!!!!
Shell: High Hopes for GTL Lubes

 

Thought I'd add Ultra SN/GF-5 TDS to this thread, as its NOACK has really improved over its SM/GF-4 recipe, as it seems they're now using some of their Gplll+ GTL Pearl base oil to improve volatility to a very low/impressive 6.4% NOACK on the 5W-30 recipe. http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...1207271344.pdf
EDIT: Here for reference is a PQIA link with SN/GF-5 Ultra & others recipes http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013P...sallfinal.html

BTW Ed, how did the SM/GF-4 recipe of Ultra do in your 4.0L???? Have you used the improved SN/GF-5 recipe & if so did you notice any difference in engine noise, or oil consumption improvement???