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Change your MLPS / neutral safety switch.. now!

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1978 - 1996 Big Bronco  
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Change your MLPS / neutral safety switch.. now!

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  #16  
Old 06-10-2011, 03:22 PM
ErrorS
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Originally Posted by Matt In Detroit View Post
I think I am going to try this. Ive been through everything in my truck, it starts runs and drives fine. But, it does have the issue where i need to push up on the shifter to get it to start sometimes, it does have the park to reverse slam that I hate, and it just doesnt seem like it has the get up and go it should. I am getting 11/14 ish for mileage which aint bad from what I am told. I think I will gamble the cost of the sensor for the possibility that i get some driveabilty improvements. My truck is a 93, I have 109k and I am reasonably sure it has the orig sensor. I think this will be my next repair.
I was SURE my rearend was gone, it still might be messed but since it doesn't rev up in between shifts, especially when I shift into reverse, I get no more slam.
though that can be caused by a collection of a whole bunch of issues. Make sure your driveshaft slip joint is lubed, pinion nut is tightened (this improved it, mine was finger tight at best) and you have clean/proper fluid in your rearend AND transmission (I always lose reverse or get hard shifts after a tranny fluid change if I don't have the right amount of fluid).

Gone (I think? I've not done enough road tests) is also a hard slam I'd get into third from second and vice versa under heavy load after driving for a while. Also, the thing is about having to push into park to get it to start is most definitely the MLPS unless you have your linkages screwed up.. the MLPS doesn't really become misadjusted, it just goes bad.. so you can be sure that the sensor, at least at some points, doesn't give proper readouts.

Best part is, I'm almost sure it was those hard shifts, or slamming that was killing my cv joint in my driveshaft. I don't care how strong yuour motor, transmission mounts, cv joint or well lubed your driveshaft is, drivetrains just can't handle that kind of force.
 
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  #17  
Old 06-11-2011, 02:28 AM
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Errors,

Vehicles that pre-date OBD-II are slowly being dropped from testing and the like simply because the testing procedure is getting to a point where the equipment that is being used to test, needs to be plugged into the vehicle to perform the test. This is not to say that every state will immediately adopt the policy but there are a lot of them that have left emissions testing behind on anything older than 1996 which was when OBD-II became the federal standard.

I'm curious as to just what your experience was because I'd like to know what cop can stand on the roadside and determine the cat that was removed was still functioning or that the cat that is still there still has its internal substrate. I'd be willing to bet there are more gutless cats on vehicles right now than there are functioning, clear flowing ones. Lets see how that cop gets his cruiser home when he hits a puddle and cracks the internal substrate and the ONLY way to get the thing running again is to cut the cat off so the exhaust can actually leave the engine. Can I follow him and make a citizen's complaint so i can have the cruiser impounded then?

Matt,

Tighten the two small screws at the base of the steering column where the shift linkage moves from the shift lever to the intermediate link. When they get loose, the shift lever doesn't move the linkage fully into the park detent which is ironically the same location that the MLPS needs it to be to "tell" the system the truck is actually in PARK.
 
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  #18  
Old 06-11-2011, 01:35 PM
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It's not so much testing for emissions, that's not an issue here. When you get a ticket here there are a bunch of traffic violations they can check off (Speeding, following too closely, etc) and one of them is clearly "Improper/non-functioning exhaust".
My exhaust was all chopped up, cut off behind the cat and a cheap cherrybomb attached to the end. It sounded loud.. apparently everything from a cracked manifold to lacking cat to lacking a muffler is enough to get a ticket, and it's up to the officer's descretion on whether the vehicle should be impounded.

He was being a real jerk and I was just asking too many questions..
 
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  #19  
Old 06-13-2011, 02:35 AM
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Impounding for "excessive vehicular noise" is the act of a gutless *****... and i would tell any cop that to his face especially if my ride was headed to the city yard where god knows what will happen to it before I get it back. Might get me "impounded" too but I'd take my chances with the judge. (steps off soapbox, picks it up, stuffs it under left arm, exits stage left).

On a lighter note... if its too loud... you're too old!
 
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  #20  
Old 06-15-2011, 01:48 PM
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For those of you replacing the MLPS, skip on the autozone part. Was really excited about going on a long ride last night after a succesful road test, sure enough, it didn't start. I tried adjusting the MLPS and it would start but the backup lights wouldn't work, so adjusted again, no start and I got backup lights. I adjusted it so it would start and then it wouldn't restart.

I found out what the problem was, if I pushed the MLPS towards the transmission from the top near the harness, I'd get backup lights, if I pulled it away from the tranmission, it would start.

So basically, brand new sensor and i have to 'wiggle' it to get it to work right. I should have known, the new one is about half the weight of my old one, the plastic is thin and gets quite flexy when my transmission warms up as well. I'm hoping it has somethign to do with my linkages but I really don't think so.

and I know most of you know it anyways, definitely a lesson I've learned well over time. Most AZ parts are junk.. not all, but most.
 
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  #21  
Old 06-16-2011, 02:18 AM
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Got the MLPS exchanged today and the new one works fine. The casing is made out of a thicker plastic, serial numbers are in a different location and this one seems more sealed from the elements. The metal washer/spacer things didn't twist on me when installing either. Definitley came out of a different facility and I have a feeling this one is going to last.
 
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  #22  
Old 10-22-2011, 10:22 PM
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GRR, I'm on number 3 right now! First I lose reverse lights, then have to toy with the shifter to get it to start when in park. This is driving me nuts, I'm sick of taking this darn thing off!

Autozone said they'll refund it for me, I think I'm just gonna pick one up from Ford.

Has anyone else had problems with blowing MLPSs from Autozone or anywhere else?
 
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  #23  
Old 10-22-2011, 11:08 PM
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I picked one up from Advance and it didn't work right without jiggling the thing around every couple starts, so I took it back and put the stocker on. i was wondering if Ford still had these for sale.
 
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  #24  
Old 10-22-2011, 11:51 PM
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OReilleys has BWD switches, I've heard from a few people that BWD makes good electronics.. I did buy a BWD headlight switch which felt much more quality than the Autozone part, but after about two weeks the dome light portion of the switch broke.

I know Ford still has the part, there was a TSB on earlier switches and now all E4ODs use the same exact switch.. I think it's going to be pretty pricey from Ford though, I'm expecting $100+ versus the $35 for the Autozone part.
 
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  #25  
Old 11-04-2011, 12:18 PM
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96 bronco

My bronco is not starting in the mornings ounce it does start it runs good, its at the ford dealer now and the darn thing wont do it , meaning it starts every time. after reading this post will the neutral safety switch cause this ? the Bronco has 200,000 original miles everything is stock no problems with it until now also the original owner
 
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  #26  
Old 11-04-2011, 01:43 PM
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What happens when you turn the key? If the MLPS is busted and/or out of range (adjusted wrong) it wont crank.
 
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  #27  
Old 11-04-2011, 07:58 PM
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Bronco wont start

It just cranks as if there is no fuel or fire. It will crank for quite awhile, you can spray ether still wont fire then suddenly it fires, it only happens in the morning, it wont do it for the rest of the day. Its been at the ford dealer for 2 day it did it this morning real briefly then fired, its not throwin any codes
 
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  #28  
Old 11-04-2011, 08:14 PM
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Yeah, that's probably not an MLPS. I'd post in a new thread asking about it.. probably ignition related.
 
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  #29  
Old 07-28-2017, 01:28 PM
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PCM failure due to e4od

Ive read thru the post and thought this may be where i should ask. I have a 93 f250 4x4 7.5/e4od with 118k miles. Trans was rebuilt around 96k by previous owner and i have work order/ receipt. I have replaced the pcm 4 times this year. It seems to burn up before 75 to 100 miles. I have ruled out a ground issue and now think it may be related to trans but not sure how to address. The only code besides 11 i got was 67. Can the neutral switch cause voltage increase and fry pcm? Any help will be great.
 

Last edited by Davis2; 07-28-2017 at 03:47 PM. Reason: Wrong code
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  #30  
Old 07-28-2017, 03:36 PM
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PCM burning up

The MLPS is just a switch but nor very expensive nor difficult to replace if you want to throw a part at it. I loaned my Bronco to my son years ago along with code reader and book. Sorry, my geezer mind is failing but thought the '93 had three digit codes like my '94 so I am of no help.
 
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