Upgrading factory system in steps 05 F350 Crew Cab
#1
Upgrading factory system in steps 05 F350 Crew Cab
I want to upgrade the Factory system in my 2005 Ford F350 Crew Cab. But I have to do it in steps because....budget of course.
Step 1: I am replacing the 4 factory speakers with Kenwood KFC-C6893PS. Already purchased and on the way.
Step 2: Add amp and sub, but also amp new speakers.
This is where my questions really start. I only want 1 amp, so do I get a 4 channel amp and only power the front speakers and use the 2 other channels bridged to power the sub? Or do I go to a 5 channel amp and power all speakers? What amp do you recommend?
The Sub I have is a 15 year old 10” MTX blue thunder sub and enclosure.
If the AMP is in the back of the truck along with the sub, is there a wiring harness that plugs into the factory head unit harness, or do I have to run wires from the head unit back to the amp and then back to the head unit to tie into the speaker wires?
Step 3: Replace factory head unit with aftermarket. But have it plug into existing wiring and steering wheel controls. Any recommendations on a replacement head unit at a reasonable price?
I’m a greenhorn, so take it easy on me.
Thanks!
Matt
Step 1: I am replacing the 4 factory speakers with Kenwood KFC-C6893PS. Already purchased and on the way.
Step 2: Add amp and sub, but also amp new speakers.
This is where my questions really start. I only want 1 amp, so do I get a 4 channel amp and only power the front speakers and use the 2 other channels bridged to power the sub? Or do I go to a 5 channel amp and power all speakers? What amp do you recommend?
The Sub I have is a 15 year old 10” MTX blue thunder sub and enclosure.
If the AMP is in the back of the truck along with the sub, is there a wiring harness that plugs into the factory head unit harness, or do I have to run wires from the head unit back to the amp and then back to the head unit to tie into the speaker wires?
Step 3: Replace factory head unit with aftermarket. But have it plug into existing wiring and steering wheel controls. Any recommendations on a replacement head unit at a reasonable price?
I’m a greenhorn, so take it easy on me.
Thanks!
Matt
#2
I'd go with a 5 channel amp, which one is entirely up to how much you want to spend. For 1 10" something like this would be budget friendly choice.
Since you're not replacing the head unit yet you should get one of these. It will give you the outputs you need for the amp. I would recommend running new speaker wire from the amp to all the speakers.
In order to keep your steering wheel controls with an aftermarket head unit you will need one of these. Just be sure to get a head unit that is compatible.
Since you're not replacing the head unit yet you should get one of these. It will give you the outputs you need for the amp. I would recommend running new speaker wire from the amp to all the speakers.
In order to keep your steering wheel controls with an aftermarket head unit you will need one of these. Just be sure to get a head unit that is compatible.
#3
I'd go with a 5 channel amp, which one is entirely up to how much you want to spend. For 1 10" something like this would be budget friendly choice.
Since you're not replacing the head unit yet you should get one of these. It will give you the outputs you need for the amp. I would recommend running new speaker wire from the amp to all the speakers.
Also, this adaptor gives me 4 preouts, but the amp is 5 channel. Does the amp automatically take the bass from the 4 other preouts?
Thanks!
#4
Also, this adaptor gives me 4 preouts, but the amp is 5 channel. Does the amp automatically take the bass from the 4 other preouts?
#5
Thanks for your help Dave! However i'm now more confused than before. The PAC AOEM-FRD24 PAC AOEM-FRD24 (aoemfrd24) Interface that Allows Replacement or that you recomended only has 4 preouts, 2 front and 2 rear. If I use the 2 front preouts for the Kicker ZIYM Y adaptor then where do I get my power for the front speaker inputs on the Amp? Also the Y adaptor takes me down to 1 preout, where the amp requires 2 inputs for the 5th chanel. Boss CX1800
Thanks for your patience, this is all new to me.
Thanks for your patience, this is all new to me.
#6
Here's the hook-up...
You're going to need RCA patch cords, such as these, to connect the 2 sets of pre-outs from the PAC unit to the amp. (2 front and 2 rear, so 2 sets of patch cords)
The 2 rear cords will plug directly into the amp rear inputs, white to white, red to red. (or in the case of the patch cords I linked to, black to white, red to red)
The 2 front cords will each plug into the blue end of one of the Y adapters, splitting the signal for the front and the sub inputs. So now you have 4 leads to plug in. 2 for the front amp input and 2 for the sub input.
As I said earlier, the patch cords I linked to have a black stripe on one connector and a red stripe on the other, instead of the customary red and white.
Now you're going to plug the 2 Y adapter leads coming from the red striped patch cord into the red inputs on the amp, one going to the front red input and one going to the sub red input.
Now plug the Y adapter leads coming from the black striped patch cord into the 2 white inputs on the amp, one for the front and one for the sub.
Clear as mud?
You're going to need RCA patch cords, such as these, to connect the 2 sets of pre-outs from the PAC unit to the amp. (2 front and 2 rear, so 2 sets of patch cords)
The 2 rear cords will plug directly into the amp rear inputs, white to white, red to red. (or in the case of the patch cords I linked to, black to white, red to red)
The 2 front cords will each plug into the blue end of one of the Y adapters, splitting the signal for the front and the sub inputs. So now you have 4 leads to plug in. 2 for the front amp input and 2 for the sub input.
As I said earlier, the patch cords I linked to have a black stripe on one connector and a red stripe on the other, instead of the customary red and white.
Now you're going to plug the 2 Y adapter leads coming from the red striped patch cord into the red inputs on the amp, one going to the front red input and one going to the sub red input.
Now plug the Y adapter leads coming from the black striped patch cord into the 2 white inputs on the amp, one for the front and one for the sub.
Clear as mud?
#7
Light bulb went on!
Thanks Dave, youre the best!
One more question, do you think this wiring kit will work? Power Acoustik AKIT44 4-Channel Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit
Thanks Dave, youre the best!
One more question, do you think this wiring kit will work? Power Acoustik AKIT44 4-Channel Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit
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#11
The new 5 channel amps really work good. The Massive amps are small & put out good power. I'm running a 4 channel & a mono amp in my trucks. I don't mind giving up the space. I have them where the jump seats were in the Ranger. I put them under the seat in the F250. They take up the whole area under the big rear seat. I have a old USA 4 channel 90 watts x4 & a Kenwood 250 watt sub amp in it. My Ranger has a Phoenix Gold ZR 475 ti & a JL Audio 500 in it. I like my old amps. Made in America & very clean & powerful. They are 10 years old but they still rock.
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