I did some reading here about spark plugs; brands and types, etc., but I didn't come across any removal tricks (but a few comments regarding difficulty though). I see that a couple of the plugs are reasonably accessible, but others appear quite difficult to access. Can folks suggest what tools are required for removal and some dos and don'ts when removing spark plugs? I had a 1980 Buick Skyhawk back in the day were accessing the rear plugs required jointed knuckles to get at. When I did the first replacement, one particular plug was different from the rest lending to the idea that it was still the original plug. Another time I had them changed at a quicky shop, and they snapped one of the plugs off and had to keep my car a couple of days. I'd like to avoid pitfalls if at all possible.

Thanks folks!

 

I just replacing plugs on my 2.3 engine. Remove the upper intake manifold. There are 4 bolts that connect it to the throttle body and 5 bolts that connect it to the lower intake manifold. There are vacuum lines and the EGR valve that you need to remove as well.

I think it was easier to get to other plugs on the intake side of the engine by removing the alternator as well.

While I had the upper intake manifold off, I found that it was rather cruddy on the inside, so I cleaned it out with throttle body cleaner. That made me look at the throttle body. It had a lot of crud in it, especially around the edge of the throttle plate.
Cleaning the insides of those two parts improved my gas mileage from 21 mpg on the hiway to 25 mpg and got rid of a persistent high idle problem.

Good luck.

 

Thanks Michigan. I didn't think it was possible to get at a couple of the plugs without removal of the intake manifold. A couple look like they are accessible with a pivoting joint/knuckle or two, but it makes me a little nervous not being in direct line over the sparks when turning them out or torquing them down. I will give the intake a good look over for crud as well...looking to optimize the fuel and power as best I can.

Kevin

 

autolite or motorcraft DP's and autoite or motorcraft wires....... a few extensions and a swivel........I can change all 8 plugs and wires in less than an hour without removing the intake

 

That's good to know. I'll need to have another look. As I recall, the two driverside sparks looked like the intake would need removal. I do recall thinking that there might be room to negotiate an extension through the intake for one, an A/C line for another, but one looked like it couldn't be reached. About torquing down the sparks with extensions and swivels: can you get reliable torque ratings?

Thanks for the input folks!

 

The torque readings should be pretty accurate even using a "swivel". I am guessing a swivel is like a universal joint, which does not change the lever arm length, so should not change the torque. You can however get those things 'jammed' to a degree if you are not pretty close to straight on. I found some 'floppy' extensions at harbor freight that have non-straight sides on the tip of the extension. This allows the socket to move slightly off center, or wobble a bit, on the tip of the extension. It carries the torque without fear of breaking the swivel, yet allows a slightly off-center alignment to work putting the socket on the nut/bolt head. You can also use a length of hose fitted over the ceramic insulator on the plug as an 'extension' that lets you hand-start the threads when you can't get your hands to fit into the 'mess'.
tom

 

Tom - good idea on the hose. I generally use the extension to start the threading by hand before torquing down the plugs but getting around the 'mess' is inevitable so I'll give the hose a try. Harbor Freight has lots of neat stuff, but lots of it is now made in China - quality of product has slipped a bit as a result. I have a couple of sets of Craftsman tools, but even the newer set is not as robust as the older set I have, but I'm off topic.

I supposed that the torque was reasonably the same with a universal joint, but changing the angle/moment should impact it to some degree. Given how this engine is set up, I figured I'd check here with the experienced folks to find out. I recall not caring much about that with my old Buick, but it may be the reason why the one plug snapped off in the spark plug hole (I over torqued it when putting it in). In all honesty, the quick lube never told me which plug snapped off, but I assumed it to be the one most inaccessible and torqued in by hand without a torque wrench.

Thanks for the input!

Kevin

 

Rackster, I used a universal joint in the socket setup to get to the plugs. That was even after removing parts as I indicated in my earlier post.

If i do it again I will remove parts. It didn't take long to remove them and made the whole job easier.

 

I changed all 8 plugs without a swivel just extensions........I dont have AC

 

I have a 2000 2.5 with 160,000 miles.
easiest way for me was too remove the upper intake manifold.
gaskets are cheap. this method also makes it easy to throw in a new pcv plus replace the coolant hoses that run to the intake manifold.

 

OK guys, I changed the plugs and wires - it was time. I found that the plugs with nearly 96K on them looked nice and clean (expected browning), but the outer electrodes were eroding away. Many had gaps had grown by .010-.020". I also broke three wires trying to pull the boot off which left the metal clip that attaches to the terminals on the terminals. Two broke off on plugs with easy access, but one broke off (#3 under the intake manifold) and required some effort to get it off to remove the plug. Removing the wires and getting them back on was the hardest part of the job. The long gray plastic extensions help with removal and insertion, but are also in the way when getting the boots into position. #3 and #4 on the intake side are by far the most difficult, and getting a grip on the boot of #4 on the exhaust side was made difficult with the module in the way and because the clip got stuck to the terminal. But it is doable without removal of the intake. That said, with all the fussing, it might be easier and take less time to remove the intake. I had to get my wife to help me with the #4 intake wire reinstallation. I was under the truck aligning the plastic boot while she held the extension in the right position. I guess if I had gotten her earlier, I'd have saved 30 minutes. Total time invested was about three hours. Not as fast as Powersmoked, but I have AC (only got in the way of both #1s, but only added a few minutes to each).

Haynes makes the recommendation to do the plug change sooner, and given the few snags I hit with the difficulty in removing the boots and the wear on the electrodes, I think it's probably good advice.