Gas Leak :( with pics
#1
Gas Leak :( with pics
So I didn't notice this right away (stupid allergies), but I'm definitely leaking gas from the top of the tank. It smells near the front of the bad/back of the cab, and some actually seeps down the sides of the tank.
Will I be joining the masses who have already taken their bed off to fix this? The thing that's weird is it looks like the filler hose is fine, its the actual pump unit (I think). Sorry for the weird angles; its hard to fit the camera down there lol.
Pics:
Filler Hose
Will I be joining the masses who have already taken their bed off to fix this? The thing that's weird is it looks like the filler hose is fine, its the actual pump unit (I think). Sorry for the weird angles; its hard to fit the camera down there lol.
Pics:
Filler Hose
Last edited by glruff; 05-27-2011 at 03:55 AM.
#2
I could only figure out the last two pictures. Looks as if the leak is where you said, but I am not sure if it is the in-tank 'sender unit' or the fittings where the fuel line connects. It is very unusual for the fittings to leak, and also for the sender to leak. If you remove the bed to do the repair, I would have both fuel line and a sender available, and return whichever I didn't need after figuring out what is leaking. I'd rather do that than have to raise the bed a second time.
FWIW, the leak would likely cause you to fail your SMOG check. I wonder if it would be covered by the emissions warranty. If it is within the months / miles limit, you may be able to have Ford pick up the tab.
If the leak is on the pressurized line or outlet, I would be wary of a fire because of spraying fuel.
tom
FWIW, the leak would likely cause you to fail your SMOG check. I wonder if it would be covered by the emissions warranty. If it is within the months / miles limit, you may be able to have Ford pick up the tab.
If the leak is on the pressurized line or outlet, I would be wary of a fire because of spraying fuel.
tom
#3
Yea its hard to get a good picture lol. The first one is laying under the drivers side of the tank looking back at the filler hose attachment. the second picture is on the drivers side, showing the leak towards the rear of the car from the sender unit. the third and fourth pictures are from the passenger side looking at the sender unit.
I'll definitely buy both, thanks for the suggestion. For the sending unit, anyone know if the motorcraft part is a must have? an airtex unit is 190, or 480 for the motorcraft, including gasket and seal.
maybe the gasket/seal just failed? *crosses fingers*
I'll definitely buy both, thanks for the suggestion. For the sending unit, anyone know if the motorcraft part is a must have? an airtex unit is 190, or 480 for the motorcraft, including gasket and seal.
maybe the gasket/seal just failed? *crosses fingers*
#5
FWIW, I had to replace the fuel gauge sender, and the part was only available from FoMoCo. If you have a bad connector on the top of the tank, you need the whole sender, including fuel pump. If it is the fuel line, you will save a few $'s.
If the aftermarket includes the whole shebang, that is placed in the top of the tank, and held in place by a 'ring', and it is less costly, I'd go with it, IF I thought the brand was good. If I were concerned about quality, and was hesitant to have to repeat the repair, I'd go with OEM. If the warranty on the aftemarket is good, I'd likely use their product, especially if it beat the OEM warranty. It is a statement if belief in the quality of their product, I think...
Fuel line will likely be OEM only, but I've been wrong before.
tom
If the aftermarket includes the whole shebang, that is placed in the top of the tank, and held in place by a 'ring', and it is less costly, I'd go with it, IF I thought the brand was good. If I were concerned about quality, and was hesitant to have to repeat the repair, I'd go with OEM. If the warranty on the aftemarket is good, I'd likely use their product, especially if it beat the OEM warranty. It is a statement if belief in the quality of their product, I think...
Fuel line will likely be OEM only, but I've been wrong before.
tom
#7
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#9
#10
Got the bed off...that despite only being 6 years old, those bolts were definitely on there! PB Blaster and a jack handle as a cheater bar worked though.
No leak from sloshing gas, but when I pressurized the system, gas started spraying a small amount from the fitting with an arrow on it below. I was scared of breaking it by trying to pull it off; the orange tab didn't want to move.
No leak from sloshing gas, but when I pressurized the system, gas started spraying a small amount from the fitting with an arrow on it below. I was scared of breaking it by trying to pull it off; the orange tab didn't want to move.
#11
FoMoCo calls the whole assembly the "sending unit", including the fuel pump. You can purchase replacement fuel pumps and bolt them in place on the sending unit rather than replace the whole thing. Saves a chunk of change, but may require 'fitting' skills to make the pump bolt in place securely.
If you had just pulled it off, you would have broken it. There are release tabs to spring the spring out of the way that holds it in place. I do not know how that exact fitting works, but most of them take a special tool to get them to release.
You have either a bad fitting, or a bad O-ring or a damaged sending unit. There should be an O-ring inside the large part that snaps onto the sending unit. It may have gotten damaged or has gotten flattened by age, pressure, whatever. In that case, you can buy, or could, a pigtail that has the correct right angle fitting to snap onto your sender, and can be 'unioned' with the remaining fuel line leading up to the engine. You would remove the fitting, cut the old line so the splice would be in a good spot, cut the new pigtail or 'whip' to match, and splice it, and then PBT.
If it is the fitting on the sending unit, replace the unit.
I think you need a tool to release the fittings. Your look like they have to 'ears' that need to be pressed towards the center of the fitting, while pressing gently on the fitting towards the sender, and then they should release. The leaking fitting has what looks like small leaf on it. Above and towards the viewer there is what looks like a hole in the fitting with something sticking out slightly. I think that is the 'depression' where you would press the small tabs in to release the fitting. They will release without a lot of pushing and shoving when they are done right. They do need to be 'loaded' towards whatever they are connected to to free the 'lock'.
tom
If you had just pulled it off, you would have broken it. There are release tabs to spring the spring out of the way that holds it in place. I do not know how that exact fitting works, but most of them take a special tool to get them to release.
You have either a bad fitting, or a bad O-ring or a damaged sending unit. There should be an O-ring inside the large part that snaps onto the sending unit. It may have gotten damaged or has gotten flattened by age, pressure, whatever. In that case, you can buy, or could, a pigtail that has the correct right angle fitting to snap onto your sender, and can be 'unioned' with the remaining fuel line leading up to the engine. You would remove the fitting, cut the old line so the splice would be in a good spot, cut the new pigtail or 'whip' to match, and splice it, and then PBT.
If it is the fitting on the sending unit, replace the unit.
I think you need a tool to release the fittings. Your look like they have to 'ears' that need to be pressed towards the center of the fitting, while pressing gently on the fitting towards the sender, and then they should release. The leaking fitting has what looks like small leaf on it. Above and towards the viewer there is what looks like a hole in the fitting with something sticking out slightly. I think that is the 'depression' where you would press the small tabs in to release the fitting. They will release without a lot of pushing and shoving when they are done right. They do need to be 'loaded' towards whatever they are connected to to free the 'lock'.
tom
#12
Thanks so much for your help Tomw!!
I replaced the fitting with a splice in from AZ, but it still leaks. I guess I'll be buying a whole new sending unit and putting it on. And probably a new fitting again, cause I'm pretty sure I'll end up breaking the tabs on this one to get it off lol. oh well.
I replaced the fitting with a splice in from AZ, but it still leaks. I guess I'll be buying a whole new sending unit and putting it on. And probably a new fitting again, cause I'm pretty sure I'll end up breaking the tabs on this one to get it off lol. oh well.
#14
CJ06 -
When I replaced the fitting, the new one came with new O rings. Unless I'm missing something, that means the leak is probably caused by the sending unit itself. there might be a small crack in it that I can't see, or some other rough spot that isn't letting the O rings seal properly.
When I replaced the fitting, the new one came with new O rings. Unless I'm missing something, that means the leak is probably caused by the sending unit itself. there might be a small crack in it that I can't see, or some other rough spot that isn't letting the O rings seal properly.
#15