Hey guys

Just wondering if anyone has used POR 15 and what there results/opinions were? I am thinking about using it some trouble rust areas on my 86 F150. The main areas are the door bottoms and front lip on the underside of the hood, but if it works well, I may splurge and paint the whole underneath of the truck with it. Any opinions let me know. And also can it be applied with a spray gun? And are the POR prep products really necessary is the area is cleaned up well? Thanks

 

I've used it on my winch bumpers that were painted black. It worked good for that, didn't use any of their other stuff. Just cleaned the dirt and crud off and excess rust then brushed it on. Been on there about 3 years and still looks ok, no return of rust.

 

I used POR-15 on my Early Bronco frame and axles. This product is highly recommended in the EB world for doing frames and such. I used the prep products as suggested and it worked great. Not sure how "necessary" it is but I went for it.

You can spray it but I brushed mine on. It flows REAL nice to the point that you can't tell it was brushed on once it dries.

And... a little bit goes a long ways! I did my frame, front and rear axles, rear springs, radius arms, etc with one quart. That was two coats on everything.

The only other thing I can remember about it is that if it gets exposed to the sun it will fade badly. From what I read it doesn't break down and begin to fail, it just fades. I top coated my frame with chassis black from Eastwood. Here's a few pics.

 

I used it on a 9" axle that sat on my back porch and a gas tank on one of my trucks. It is UV sensitive, so if its going to exposed at all, you need something on top of it. My gas tank peeled and flaked only in the places you could see, on top and front where it stayed in the dark held up fine. The axle is showing some rust through, but it's been 8 or 9 years since I por'd it and no top coat.

 

I've used it to treat surface rust. Haven't used it in a long while though. It works well, but we also don't have salted roads, or salt in the air here. I used it as more of a detterent.

 

The stuff is fantastic. But, as was mentioned it doesn't work to well in a salty environment. If you have rust spots on the frame, use the POR on it, then hit it with a rubberized undercoating spray. I would do this on the underside of your doors if it isn't a visible area. For the hood, if it's visible, hit it with a good touch up paint and sealer and you should be good to go.

I DIDN'T use the prep products, and had no issues. Just the usual. Sand the old stuff down, etching primer, then the POR on top. I did the entire frame and underside of the tub of my *****'s with it, and my parents used it on steel I-beams that hold up their concrete garage floor. But again, if it's salty enviro, you gotta seal it.

 

I wire-wheeled the frame and underbody of my '85 Bronco in 1999, and also sanded the outside of the fuel tank, shocks, suspension, etc. I didn't use any of the POR-15 prep products, just the paint itself to cover. While the POR was still tacky, I fogged over it with Rust Oleum Rusty Metal Primer (red oxide). After it was dry, I top coated everything with Rust Oleum black and platinum enamel. Ten years later (and three winters on salty Minnesota roads) there is absolutely no rust-through - the surface coatings on the underbody still look as they did the first year. This said, I will offer a couple of words of caution: I also soaked the inside of the tailgate shell and inner quarter panel / inner wheel wells with it - both areas appeared to be rust free at the time. Within a year and a half both started to rust through from the inside out. I'm convinced that in areas where the sheet metal overlapped and was spot-welded together, and where there was probably a bit of rust in between, my soaking of the overlapped joints sealed everything up to a point where the rust and moisture took a path outward. This was just way too pronounced and in too short of a time for me to believe otherwise. On flat surfaces, like frames and floor pans, two thumbs up!! On overlapped joints, like where door skins wrap around the shells, be careful - reskin or replace. If you wire wheel the bottom of a door and soak the paint through from the inside and along the bottom, the rust will likely find its way through the backside of the panel, or however else it can.

 

IMO, rust will resurface at some point, some products hold it off longer than others but Por 15 seems to work better than majority of the other products. Used a wire wheel, pressure hosed, used the 'marine clean' to wash the chassis, rinsed, then used spray gun to apply 2-3 coats. Strongly suggest purchasing container of their solvent, it certainly comes in handy for clean up purposes, and if decide to apply with spray gun it can be used to dilute the mixture if necessary. Most importantly, the solvent is the only product I found that will remove it, when instructions advise to remove within min's or paint will remain until it wears off they mean it.

 

I was planning on doing the same process on my 67 F100 frame. I'm going to sandblast it first, then paint. Did you puff-can your chassis black, or use a spray gun, and did you paint it right afer putting on the POR-15, or put it on later?

 

I just bought the aerosol cans of chassis black from Eastwood. I think it took about 4 cans...? I waited until the POR-15 had cured which I'm not sure if that was the best choice or not. We'll see I guess!

One thing on the chassis black, it takes a LONG time to cure. I'm talking, like a week. Its basically dry in a day or so, but if you handle the parts alot you'll soon notice that they're still slightly tacky. I thought something was wrong but after doing some reading online I found several others that had that same experience.

Tell me more about your '67. My Dad has a '67 4x4 short bed with the I6 motor, 240 cid I think..? It needs a lot of work but I don't see many '67s around here.

 

Mine is a longbed 4x4, with the 300-6 and a four speed. Found it up near Dubois, Wyoming about 12 years ago. About 10 years ago, the tranny went south on me, and I parked it. I bought a 390 a few years back, and I'd like to find a way to incorporate a later model four or five speed and 2 speed transfer case. It has the usual rust in the fenders, and I just discovered the cab floor will probably have to be replaced also. The bed isn't too bad, needs some work on both back corners, took hit's on both sides of the rear bumper.

I'll keep that in mind about the Chassis black. Did you primer before it, or just spray it over the POR-15?

 

Sounds like a fun project! I always liked that vintage Ford pickups.

Ok... back on topic I just sprayed it right over top of the POR-15. No primer or anything. Its been a few years ago now but it seems like I might have hit the POR-15 briefly with a scotchbrite pad and tack rag before spraying on it.

 

Found this old thread.

Been looking at getting this por 15 to clean up my old delivery truck.

I have the engine out right now to replace the oilpan. It has to go for annual inspection, so I figure covering up the rust on the frame while I'm at it wouldn't hurt.

Two questions.

1) They say to get the frame really, really clean. I've been using a pressure washer to blast off all the filth, then spraying the extra grimy areas with engine degreaser and scrubbing with the wife's toilet brush. Should I get their product "marine clean", or is there a similar product that does the same job.

2) Salt. I read in this thread that the por 15 doesn't stand up well to salt. We have a lot of salt on our roads, which is why there's so much rust. What's a good product to topcoat the Por 15? And how do I do it? Let it cure, or while the por 15 is still tacky?

 

I have done the underside of all my fleet of plow trucks. Doing fine in very salty environments.

Degreaser, clean, wire wheel, etch, and paint with a brush. Plastic underneath and wear gloves and long sleeves as it will NOT come off once dry. Painting is all about the prep.