Helipirate’s 1978 Ford F250 Super Cab 4X4 Project with Lots of Pictures
#122
#123
Colossal undertaking ..... motivation is the key .....
Why 22? just cause? I'm looking at the diesel chromes for my crew project as well... probly 18" as they are getting cheaper ... What off set are they? and how much lift will you need for those 22's to clear?
Rims and tires arrived
Why 22? just cause? I'm looking at the diesel chromes for my crew project as well... probly 18" as they are getting cheaper ... What off set are they? and how much lift will you need for those 22's to clear?
Rims and tires arrived
#125
#128
#129
Great job as always on the bodywork. Where did you research info on your air ride set up? Anyplace in particular?
I'm picking up odds and ends for my crew and have considered something other than leafs. I'm looking for max towing capability paired with a smooth ride.
I'm picking up odds and ends for my crew and have considered something other than leafs. I'm looking for max towing capability paired with a smooth ride.
As far as the air ride I have about the same goals in mind. I want a great ride, and great tow capability as I want to do a Cummins swap some day and good handling. This truck will rarely if every see anything worse then a dirt road or some small sand dunes. So with that in mind I don't need flex or articulation. Air bags give a smooth ride and with a four link it should have great handling as well. The air bags won't squat when towing and should ride great with or without a load, ride height is adjustable, spring rate is adjustable, and they wont sag over time like springs.
So for four link design I have been spending a lot of time reading on Pirate4X4. Even though they are more focused on off road, there is tons to learn about four links on that site. Also been reading a lot about Kelderman's set up and looking at lots of pictures. There is lots of air ride info on the mini truck sites. Lots of magazines online have info on the air suspension controllers depending on what type you want ( manual, automatic based on pressure, or automatic based on ride height). But at the end of the day I have never seen an air suspension in person nor rode in a truck equipped with one so I am just going to make it up as I go.
Once I get this dang cab all patched up then I am going to start the suspension. I have all the D.O.M. tube, air bags, bushings, compressor (engine driven York), air lines. Just waiting on buying an air tank once I decide what will fit.
#130
I work on several full size ambulances at work and they are all rear air bagged. The one on a F series chassis has a simple effective setup. 4 link, one air bag per side and quick lift compressor. It has a axle locater bar for lateral movement. It rides great and handles good, you can feel more sway in the corners than leaf sprung but still solid. Highly reccomend it, thinking of doing the same thing on my 78 crew. (and a cummins of course)
#131
If you have any suspension questions feel free to get a hold of me. I've been around bagged trucks for over 10 years now and have always had a fascination for the actual suspensions. Most of my experience though is with mini trucks.
You seem to be in the right direction going with a four link. If you plan to do much towing I would suggest a parallel four link with either a pan hard bar or watts link. The pan hard bar might be more feasible on a lofted truck though. If you plan to use much of the suspension travel, you will want to make the pan hard as long as possible. The shorter it is the more it will try to pull the axle to one side of the truck as the suspension cycles.
Also, with towing in mind I would suggest running the air bags directly over the axle. This also seems to be something the lifted bagged trucks do in general.
You seem to be in the right direction going with a four link. If you plan to do much towing I would suggest a parallel four link with either a pan hard bar or watts link. The pan hard bar might be more feasible on a lofted truck though. If you plan to use much of the suspension travel, you will want to make the pan hard as long as possible. The shorter it is the more it will try to pull the axle to one side of the truck as the suspension cycles.
Also, with towing in mind I would suggest running the air bags directly over the axle. This also seems to be something the lifted bagged trucks do in general.
#132
Are you going to use the OEM style rubber door seals or try to find something from a more modern vehicle that does not use drip rails?
I'm curious about this as i am currently replacing the roof skin on my 78 single cab and I've spent alot of time on saving the drip rails to reuse. I thought heavily about getting rid of them, but i shared the same concerns many others expressed with the door seals not being effective enough to keep water out. I was also concerned about the seal against the window being suscepted to more water and moisture ultimately settling at the bottom of the door.
I've ultimately decided to keep the drip rails since my truck lives outside, but a garage would solve all these problems........
I'm curious about this as i am currently replacing the roof skin on my 78 single cab and I've spent alot of time on saving the drip rails to reuse. I thought heavily about getting rid of them, but i shared the same concerns many others expressed with the door seals not being effective enough to keep water out. I was also concerned about the seal against the window being suscepted to more water and moisture ultimately settling at the bottom of the door.
I've ultimately decided to keep the drip rails since my truck lives outside, but a garage would solve all these problems........
#133
If you have any suspension questions feel free to get a hold of me. I've been around bagged trucks for over 10 years now and have always had a fascination for the actual suspensions. Most of my experience though is with mini trucks.
You seem to be in the right direction going with a four link. If you plan to do much towing I would suggest a parallel four link with either a pan hard bar or watts link. The pan hard bar might be more feasible on a lofted truck though. If you plan to use much of the suspension travel, you will want to make the pan hard as long as possible. The shorter it is the more it will try to pull the axle to one side of the truck as the suspension cycles.
Also, with towing in mind I would suggest running the air bags directly over the axle. This also seems to be something the lifted bagged trucks do in general.
You seem to be in the right direction going with a four link. If you plan to do much towing I would suggest a parallel four link with either a pan hard bar or watts link. The pan hard bar might be more feasible on a lofted truck though. If you plan to use much of the suspension travel, you will want to make the pan hard as long as possible. The shorter it is the more it will try to pull the axle to one side of the truck as the suspension cycles.
Also, with towing in mind I would suggest running the air bags directly over the axle. This also seems to be something the lifted bagged trucks do in general.
Rossta my reply is in blue
Are you going to use the OEM style rubber door seals or try to find something from a more modern vehicle that does not use drip rails?
I am not sure yet what I am going to do for weather stripping yet. I do know that it is VERY over priced for quality weather stripping for these trucks ( around $400-500 for the nice stuff, I could buy a whole set of tires for that. ). I am not willing to spend that much for a bunch of extruded rubber. I will most likely try some from another vehicle or something but I am not sure what to do yet.
I'm curious about this as i am currently replacing the roof skin on my 78 single cab and I've spent alot of time on saving the drip rails to reuse. I thought heavily about getting rid of them, but i shared the same concerns many others expressed with the door seals not being effective enough to keep water out.
I think that the weather stripping either seals the truck or it doesn't and no rain gutter is going to change that. I also think that the drip rails do not keep out hardly any water and cause more rust then they prevent. While cutting mine away I found more hidden rust in the three layers of spot welded steel that make up the rain gutters then I have found almost anywhere else on the truck. Lots of rust underneath the sealer that is on top of the gutters all hidden. My cab is basically rust free besides the cab corners but all that hidden rust on the gutters had made most of the steel up there paper thin and would have bubbled through in a year or two. No new cars use them and the weather stripping doesn't look much different.
I was also concerned about the seal against the window being suscepted to more water and moisture ultimately settling at the bottom of the door.
Water is going to get into the bottom of the door with or without a gutter, the key is keeping the drain holes in the bottom clear so it doesn't stay in there.
I've ultimately decided to keep the drip rails since my truck lives outside, but a garage would solve all these problems........
All that said, it is a pain in the butt to shave the super cabs gutters and I would probably not do it again, a regular cab would be much easier from what I have seen. Most everyone on here likes the look of the gutters more then shaved. I did it because I like it better without and was lucky to find all that rust when I did it..
I am not sure yet what I am going to do for weather stripping yet. I do know that it is VERY over priced for quality weather stripping for these trucks ( around $400-500 for the nice stuff, I could buy a whole set of tires for that. ). I am not willing to spend that much for a bunch of extruded rubber. I will most likely try some from another vehicle or something but I am not sure what to do yet.
I'm curious about this as i am currently replacing the roof skin on my 78 single cab and I've spent alot of time on saving the drip rails to reuse. I thought heavily about getting rid of them, but i shared the same concerns many others expressed with the door seals not being effective enough to keep water out.
I think that the weather stripping either seals the truck or it doesn't and no rain gutter is going to change that. I also think that the drip rails do not keep out hardly any water and cause more rust then they prevent. While cutting mine away I found more hidden rust in the three layers of spot welded steel that make up the rain gutters then I have found almost anywhere else on the truck. Lots of rust underneath the sealer that is on top of the gutters all hidden. My cab is basically rust free besides the cab corners but all that hidden rust on the gutters had made most of the steel up there paper thin and would have bubbled through in a year or two. No new cars use them and the weather stripping doesn't look much different.
I was also concerned about the seal against the window being suscepted to more water and moisture ultimately settling at the bottom of the door.
Water is going to get into the bottom of the door with or without a gutter, the key is keeping the drain holes in the bottom clear so it doesn't stay in there.
I've ultimately decided to keep the drip rails since my truck lives outside, but a garage would solve all these problems........
All that said, it is a pain in the butt to shave the super cabs gutters and I would probably not do it again, a regular cab would be much easier from what I have seen. Most everyone on here likes the look of the gutters more then shaved. I did it because I like it better without and was lucky to find all that rust when I did it..