Fairly new to the blog scene. Just curious on pro and cons of various custom made EGR delete kits? And possible other cheap external engine mods to help !

 

Try the 6.0 fourms we don't bite!! As to the best I have not done one so Im not the best to answer this. I think most use the sinister egr delete. Its gets the job done at the cheapest price!

 

Moved to the 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel forum.

 

I'm not a big fan of deleting the EGR system. I believe that is an unnecessary action. Considering my truck is flowing 40% more fuel than even just a tuned 6.0 truck and I have my original working EGR system that was on my truck when it just had 20 miles and now it is over 200k.

Also bare in mind that it is illegal for you to do this on a truck that is going to be used "on-road" regardless if your local area has emissions testing or not. A lot of people seem to think that it's ok as long as you don't have emissions testing. Emissions testing just increases your odds of getting caught, doesn't make it any more or less an illegal act.

However, if you are just dead set on doing something, I wouldn't do the full delete. I would do just a bypass. All the equipment would be there if someone went looking. You would just have to find an exhaust shop that is willing to risk getting caught to do the work for you if you can't do it yourself. The y-pipes can be a bit troublesome if you aren't careful. Even some of the replacement y-pipes in the delete kits can be troublesome as well due to how they are welded.

 

EGR deletes have been proven time and time again. If they were really not "needed" do you think the 6.0 techs would waste their time and money on one? After all, they do see more of those common types of failures than we do.

I was getting a high delta between my EOT and ECT. I went with the Sinister kit. It was easy, fary good price ($280?) and went on smooth with no problems to speak of, with about 5,000 miles on it so far.

Cheezit did a little "study", and found it best to leave the actual EGR valve in place and plugged in (instead of using the block off plate supplied). Reason being is it keeps the fan
operating correctly, even though the actual valve will not be working.

There are a TON of threads and write ups on here about EGR delete kits, from custom to expensive and everything in between. It's probably the most common thing done to the 6.0's.

While you're in there doing it, I would add on a coolant filter as well.

 

Might I remind you that we have a tech on these boards that actually doesn't advocate the use of headstuds as well. A well respected tech I might add. Should we reconsider the use of studs as well, because we have techs that think twice about it? Or machining the heads? You have techs that say no machining whatsoever. Mine have been.

Bare in mind too, a lot of repear EGR failures could be attributed to techs not knowing about the link between the Oil Cooler and the EGR Cooler (and some still do not know about the link between the two). The Oil Cooler is the one that is perhaps the most damning system, not the EGR system. You can still have a plugged Oil Cooler even without an EGR system. Otherwise why would people still advocate putting on a coolant filter even after an EGR delete (as you did)? Something else that I don't have I might add. After 200k miles and mult. flushes I think I'm safe from needing one at this point, unless I just put the wrong stuff back in. If the EGR system was the true culprit behind those failures than there wouldn't be a need for the coolant filter, but those that EGR failures and had their oil coolers replaced more often than not ( at least 51% of the time) didn't have repeat failures. Those that do either had bad parts (which can happen with anything that is built by man) or bad install. The reason for the more often than not is whatever plugged up the old oil cooler and caused the egr cooler to also fail is no longer in the system and thus repeat failure is unlikely unless contaminates are reintroduced back into the system).

I well concide the point that having the EGR system in place makes for more "work" on the part of the owner as far as upkeep. That might be the reason why they chose to delete the EGR system. Maybe their driving style doesn't make it easy for them to keep with the upkeep of having that system in place. Mine does. The upkeep isn't that hard of a thing to do if you think about what needs to be done. Especially if you need a truck. Problem is a lot of people that got the 6.0s in the early years didn't need them and didn't have any knowledge of diesels period or all their knowledge was based on the older diesels.

However, think of the odds of my getting a good EGR system during the "weaker known years" (06), flowing 40% more fuel and putting down more HP then 95% (or more) of the 6.0 owning population out there. Statistically, I should be an advocate of the EGR system removal or at bare min. a bypass.

So is putting an aftermarket air filter or an off the shelf tuner. Would you do either one?

 

Cheezit also does say that he will probably go to a bullet proff diesel egr cooler eventualy. I tend to side with him on that. I don't think egr deletes are nessary. I'm not completely against them either though. What I recomend is keep the egr system in place and if, yes if not when, the egr system fails replacing it with a bullet proff diesel one. They have had very few to no failures. I myself do have a delete on, but have planes to reverse that with a bullet proff setup in the future.

 

Good point, but I would also tend to think that if one pays attention to what their motor is doing, could avoid the motor being pushed to the point of having to put head studs on. Although sometimes there's just nothing you can do and **** happens. Personally, I put the EGR delete on for just one less thing to worry about. As for studs? I think many do it as an after the fact thing.

That's all true, everyone's driving habits/needs are different. Personally, we MAY of not needed it, as anywhere we go is at least 15 miles one way into town, so our driving habits are more in tune with what the 6.0 "needs", as far as towing.





Haha, fair enough.

 

What are the pro's to having the bullet proof EGR vs. delete?

 

Resale if you sale it to someone that has to have an EGR system on the truck for visual inspections. Avoid the huge *** fine if you get caught without Federally mandated emissions equipment (regardless if there is emissions testing for diesels in your local area).

Stouter, it can handle a little bit better a plugged oil cooler then a stock one could. I would personally do the set (EGR and Oil Cooler) if you wanted to go that route, open up the oil cooler pipes a bit.

 

Aside from emissions standards and fines, wouldn't a delete handle a clogged oil cooler better than the bullet proof one?

Personally, I don't plan on making the switch back. I have a new oil cooler, no EGR system, and will be getting a coolant filter soon. To me, that's about as much as I need to do for what I do with the truck.

 

"Six in one, half a dozen in the other" as far as I'm concerned thinking of it that way.

 

I'll be honest, took me a little bit to get that one....

 

Sorry, old saying. Means not much difference between the two as far as how it handles. Only difference might be the cost, but I wouldn't imagine much difference in the logistics.

 

Truck's broke steaming out the tailpipe so I, too, am on the fence with which way to go as far as a delete or cooler(s) combo replacement. Sick of the research already. Thankfully, plenty of generous people have put out a lot of pictures and are good to share their stories / research. Good info on the Cheezit "study": egr valve placement / fan btw thanks.
My concern is I heard when the egr system introduces diesel exhaust "reflow" back into the intake, particles come out of suspension, cause turbulence and end up getting past the rings into the crankcase oil, where the particles wreak havoc on the engine bearings. I'm thinking injecting all that nasty sooty hot crap back through the engine just can't be the best thing either for the life of the engine or the performance. From my understanding cold air = hp not, hot soot.
I guess I am leaning toward going ahead and doing the replacement of the egr cooler with the bulletproof cooler, but tuning out the egr.
Still researching the oil cooler too, since its the culprit of the whole fiasco and according to bulletproof, the new improved Ford one in not improved. I like the idea of the oil cooler by bulletproof, but don't want to lose my fog lights or restrict my ac, so still researching that one. Also leaning toward the $400 worth of the Evans waterless Coolant vs. conventional to keep the oil cooler from re clogging via electrolysis with core sand (weird). Hope I don't blow a hose, because not only is that stuff high dollar, its hard to buy since its not everywhere you happen to be when you need it. And its not like you could just add water.
Haven't decided to do a coolant filter yet, trying to prioritize, and the coolant is the priority over the filtration of it for me. Keep posting, I'd like to hear what you are finding out to help you make up your mind on which route to go.



2004 (1/2) Ford F-250 FX4 King Ranch 6.0 L