Chris how do you replace the VCT solenoids on 5.4L 3v engine without removing valve covers. I have seen the new VCTs at the Ford dealer Parts dept. It looks like it has a L-shape silver bracket with a 3/16" hole. Looks to large to come through the top of valve cover gromlet looking seal where the solenoid goes through the valve cover. I have a 2006 F-150 5.4L 3v 79,000 mi. with all the same problems after sludge in engine. Rough idle when comming to a stop, when I accelorate slow, fast or midway. Missfires on passing gear and real bad gas milage. Disconnect #1 bank cam sensor because it shows bad on check engine light code and it runs 95% good . Go figure?
Oil pressure in engine has always been the same. 25lbs on hot idle 650 rpm, 50lbs at 2000 rpm, 52 lbs at high speed and high rpm. Ford specs on 5.4 3v Flexfuel oil pressure is right on what I have with mechanical gauge.
Things I have already done with ASE mechanic overseeing. 1-replaced all plugs without breaking any. 2-replaced #8 coil.3-Dropped oil pan and timming cover and inspected chains, gears, sprockets, VCP phasers, all good,timming correct but replaced both tenshoners and back seals. 4-Replaced all three crankshaft spacers. Two center and one rear spacer. 5-Replaced all crankshaft bearings with no sign of wear or damage to crankshaft lournals or bearings. 6-Had fuel pump tested ok. 7-had catalatic convertors tested with camera, tested ok. 8-heavier oil. 9-Good gasoline. No more ASE mechanic, I am on my own... No vac. leaks. Vac. gauge installed and in use.
All this started in Jan. 2011 and all this work done it still runs exectly the same as day one. So if I connect #1 cam sensor it run bad if I disconnect #1 cam sensor engine runs @ 95% efficient. I never give up. Please help.
Thanks in advance.

 

Also have done four engine flush and oil and filter change. Last time by Ford dealer with super duty dynamic motor flush. Engine lower end looks real clean and oil pump fiter looks clear and clean. No metal or crude at bottom of oil pan.

 

Replaced both cam sensors twice.

 

hey cramos70, read my post to what i found. if you disconnect the solenoid the timing goes into open loop. you've done way more than i did, but remove both valve covers and have someone crank engine over and see how much oil flow around the front cam caps. mine on driver side trickled oil on cam and pass side was just pumping way to much oil. that leads me to think cam wore the head and both need to be replaced. when the solenoid comes on it change the flow of oil. when the solenoid is off it's supposed to has full pressure and volumn to cam phaser. hope this helps

 

Thanks for the info. I will try this after Christmas and Pray I have different results. But I will do what i have to. I will let you know what happens. Have a Blessed Christmas.

 

what and where are the cam sensors. I have changed my solenoids but not sure what the sensiors are where they are located. A oicture is worth a thousand words but i cant find any good pictures.

 

I my name is Vince i have the same problem "cam phasers" is really not that the problem bring to ford or any mecchanic to check if you have good oil pressure on the to end before you spend any money. i ending up buyng a new motor for my 2004 f 150 5.4 remanufactured he cost me in total 3300$ and i can wait to go in is loud now and more you leave it and worst going to be for your engine

 

What is the easiest way to check oil pressure accurately

 

Hey guys, kinda new here just wanted to share my expirence. A few months back i expirenced the "cam phaser" issue on my 06 f150. First had the dieseling noise which quickly gave way to the timeing jumping all over and the truck often droppiong four cylinders to go into a "safe mode". Anyhow i put alot of miles on my truck, swapped the cam phasers out myself in a day and got her back together. Turned key and she purred smooth with no ticking...... BUT now no oil pressure. Figured "great plastic shaveings in the pickup screen". Ripped her back apart and drop the pan "oh goodie no plastic shaveings, but OH NO!"
In the bottom of the pan lie the remains of my thrust washers. So New oil pump, new thrust washers, main bearings, rod bearings, timeing set, water pump, CPS'S, pickup tube, and finally power steering pump. Accidently hit the shaft on the power steering pump well prying on something, prybar slipped and blew the shaft through the back of the pump. Got it all together again, turned key and fired. Purred beautifully but went to drive her today and the one thing i didnt change the Vct sensors **** out so she drop idle super low then dies. Unplugged um and she runs great. So looks like im pulling the valve covers again....... Point here dont let the cam phaser issue keep getting worse or youll end up replaceing all the **** i did.

 

So mine idles good until it warms up, but if you go to accelerate you have to feather the throttle or it spits and sputters. I pulled codes get po 174 340 345 349. It will idle rough after warm and sounds like a diesel, I'm i reading correct that when it idles rough if I unplug vct sensor and it runs better the sensor needs replaced or the phaser needs replaced? The engine has less then 500 miles on rebuild. Any help would be greatly appreciated.