1. Gently pry off the pivot/bushing end of the actuation arm off the clutch pedal inside the cab.

2. Remove actuation arm by pulling out of the clutch switch.

3. Remove the switch from the clip by pulling back slightly and lifting towards the windsield and let dangle.

4. Remove the capture pin that holdes the hydraulic line on the bottom of the master cylinder. You can push this out with anything that's appropriately sized that has a flat end. I used an allen key, but a nail with the point ground off works too.

5. Remove the two nuts that hold the master cylinder to the firewall.

6. Scrap or peel off old weather gasket.

7. Take new master cylinder into the garage and clamp "gently" in a vice. Fill with brake fluid, and actuate the plunger several times by pushing it in with a screwdriver. Then, push in and hold and collect brake fluid out of the bottom fo the master cylinder. When the resevior gets low, pull the screwdriver out and dump the collected fluid back in. Repeat until there is no air in the master cylinder.

8. Jam into the bottom the rubber plug that came with the master cylinder to protect the fitting, and carry outside and install onto the firewall, using the two nuts you removed earlier.

9. Put the new seal on the end of the hydraulic hosebarb, and quickly remove the rubber plug and shove the hydraulic hose up into the fitting, then push the capture pin back in to retain the hose.

You are done.

I found that bleeding the master cylinder on the workbench to be far less aggrevation than bleeding it after installation, because actuating the clutch pedal, pouring brake fluid in the resevior, and loosening/tighting the bleeder valve more or less at the same time to be a pain in the ****.

Hope that helps someone. This works very well for me

 

I tried removing the capture pin holding the hydraulic line to the clutch master cylinder by pushing it out with an allen wrench but it does not want to push out. Is there a special tool for pressing this out. The master cylinder does not look stiff enough to tap it out. not to mention there is very little room to work.

 

I have an 89 f250 with 300 6cyl. 5 speed manual trans. Was driving yesterday and all was well. While up shifting the clutch stayed on the floor and I couldn’t get it in gear. I’m thinking it’s the clutch master cylinder but I cannot see the connecting rod and even the nuts to remove the master cylinder under the dash. We changed the slave cylinder out a few months back and have had no issues till yesterday. Any suggestions, links to videos will be greatly appreciated.

 

What you describe sounds like the clutch line has lost all fluid/pressure. The nuts that hold the master cylinder on are located out on the firewall. The rod that is connected to the clutch linkage is all the way over on the right hand side of the brake/clutch assembly. It has a plastic snap type holder to keep it on the accuating arm. Flash light, lay on back under dash, wiggle clutch pedal and trace it down.