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My 1996 F-150 EB project

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  #16  
Old 05-05-2011, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mooktarus
Duct Tape Racing? Sounds interesting! Thanks for your reply.

Yes, it's a nasty leak alright. It looks to me like it's originating from the pan you see in the picture, but I'm not certain.

I'm not sure what a 'y-pipe' is? So I'll have to get back to you on that one. But if my guess is correct, it just drops straight from this pan to the ground. I think I see a smaller leak closer to the front, however. More on that later.

Future plans, starting now!

Clean battery terminals (baking soda)
Cover holes I poked in the wires for DPFE sensor and EVR testing
Hook up battery
Replace air bypass hose (?)
Check if CEL is still on (P0401)
Confirm source(s) of PS fluid leak(s)
Probably take to shop and let them deal w/ it
Hopefully pass inspection
New tires (if I have any $$$ left!)
Go 4-wheeling and camping!

I'm not ashamed to take it in for this one, but I want to figure out where it's leaking from. If it's an easy fix, I'll do it.

BTW, I referred to what I think is the 'air bypass hose', but here's a pic in case I'm wrong. AZ didn't have anything like it, and I don't even see any Ford parts. Any ideas how I can replace this? All I could think of was to use a connector piece with the tubing I just bought for the DPFE.



...and a closeup
WHat do you find interesting? lol

and the "y-pipe" is the part of the exhust that comes off of the exhaust manifolds and connect into one pipe, creating a "Y". I had a leak back in the day and it dripped onto the exhaust and created smoke and made it seem as if it was actually coming from my exhaust.
 
  #17  
Old 05-06-2011, 06:34 AM
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HAHA, thanks all, I didn't say I was a mechanic. Anyway, at least I've found the leak.

I think I'm going to try J-B Weld or Permatex, hoping to plug up the leak at least temporarily.

It seems replacing the oil pan requires jacking up the engine, removing the whole exhaust, stuff I'm not really prepared for. Is that true?

Has anyone either stopped (or failed to stop) an oil leak or replaced an oil pan, esp without jacking up the engine?
 
  #18  
Old 05-06-2011, 07:53 AM
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I had a pinhole on the oil pan for my 95 with 5.0L. I sanded the spot and used a steel gas tank repair kit. Its been on there there since 2007 with no leaks. My dad still uses the truck everday but now its just burns oil instead of leaking it hahaha.
 
  #19  
Old 05-06-2011, 08:55 AM
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there I believe are special oils or what ever the stuff is that you can get various products at your local auto supply store to help stop your truck from burning oil, I use to clean the whole fuel system, transmition, and other things like that, i know i saw one for use with your engines oil to help give extra protection and restore the engin as it should be. never really used many things so not too sure if the products are just a bunch of hype or if they really do work...
 
  #20  
Old 05-06-2011, 09:26 AM
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The trucks got over 240,000 miles on it now. Its probably getting a little worn out. It burns 1qt per 1000 miles. This truck has hard a hard life too. Its not the best truck motor but tough as hell. It just keeps going and going... Good luck with your truck OP, Eddie Bauers are sweet.
 
  #21  
Old 05-06-2011, 11:03 AM
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good looking truck man! ill be following this thread close
 
  #22  
Old 05-06-2011, 08:50 PM
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Wow, $80 later, I have a pile of crap ready to plug up a hole and get going.
Who knows? This might actually work!
Brakleen
Rustoleum Rust Reformer
5 quarts Castrol GTX 10W-30 oil
small hose clamps (for the "Fuel Vapor Return Tube")
J-B Kwik (meant to put back on shelf)
J-B Weld Professional
Bosch oil filter
STP air filter
Mineral Spirits
The Plan

today (done)
1. Drain oil completely (remove plug)
2. Let drain 12 hours.
3. Replace drain plug
4. Add 2 quarts of mineral spirits
5. Spray oil pan with brakleen
6. Let mineral spirits drain overnight (through leak).

tomorrow
7. Remove plug, drain remaining mineral spirits.
8. spray with brakleen again
9. Allow to dry

later
10. sand bottom of oil pan around leak
11. spray with rust converter
12. dry
13. mix epoxy, allow to set
14. apply epoxy to leak
15. allow to cure

even later
16. replace drain plug
17. change oil filter, air filter
18. fill w/ oil
19. hope to hell it doesn't leak

I've read that sanding before applying the epoxy is a good idea, but I hesitated, not knowing what grain sandpaper I want, or steel wool, emery cloth, etc. I'm inclined to go with emery cloth I use for plumbing. Any suggestions?
 
  #23  
Old 05-07-2011, 07:11 AM
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I used emery cloth and a wire brush, then coated the bottom of the pan with rust reformer.


7. Remove plug, drain remaining mineral spirits.
8. spray with brakleen again
9. Allow to dry (used cloth)
10. sand bottom of oil pan around leak
+ clean w/ soap and water, dry with cloth
11. spray with rust reformer (2 coats)
12. dry

The rust reformer says to allow 24 hours to dry. So now we wait.
 
  #24  
Old 05-07-2011, 09:18 AM
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haha, sounds like your having fun eh?
 
  #25  
Old 05-08-2011, 06:35 AM
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Oh, yeah, loads of fun.

Well, it's done. Now, wait 15 hours for it to dry.
 
  #26  
Old 05-09-2011, 05:41 PM
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used oil pan= like $40 if that..just sayn lol
 
  #27  
Old 05-09-2011, 08:10 PM
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Yeah, but what a job to replace it! lol

I changed the filter and filled up with oil, and so far, no leaks.

Only problem is, battery is dead! Tried to jump, ran car for 30 minutes, only starts to turn over.
I just cleaned the terminals and put in new contacts, so maybe something is loose. Or maybe I need a new battery.
 
  #28  
Old 05-09-2011, 08:51 PM
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lol lucky break on the no leaks.. i found out today that i have an oil leak somewhere...i decided to drain the 10-w40 and figured hey..i love my truck so im gonna spend lotsa money on some pure synthetic oil!!! yeah..found out i have a decent leak today so all that oil is leaking out..i spose the previous oil was thick enough to not leak!!!!!!
 
  #29  
Old 05-09-2011, 08:51 PM
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my truck just had the battery replaced yesterday, still had the factory original battery so that started acting up when i went to my parents house (thankfully it waited till i was in there driveway to actup and die) so I went and bought a new optima (red) battery...will watch and see how this holds and how your projects come out!!

wow punked we ninjad each other LOL!!!
 
  #30  
Old 05-10-2011, 06:21 AM
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I tested the battery at 12.45 volts, so I think it must be the contacts.
 


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