Thanks, Just what I got finished mocking up only on the drivers side.

 

I couldn't see the first pictures of the fuel cell, but from the description I read and the new picture, I'd like to make a couple comments, especially for anyone else reading this thread planning/doing a fuel system install.
First is a safety issue: Fuel cells are not the same as fuel tanks. Fuel cells are usually for racing or non highway use. They typically have bottom gravity feed outlets. Cells or even older tanks with gravity outlets are not legal for highway use, and won't pass inspection in most states with inspection laws. If in the case of an accident, high centering or or even running over an "interstate alligator" (exploded truck tire casing) can knock off the fitting and there is nothing to stop the entire contents from dumping on the highway or onto a hot exhaust system. For the same reason do not run the fuel line on the bottom or lower than the bottom of the frame. All highway licensed vehicles are supposed to have a top outlet tank with a pickup tube. Vehicles with OEM electric fuel pumps are also required to have an automatic impact/inertia switch and a rollover shut off valve. using a impact switch is a real good idea for anyone using an electric fuel pump. You can get them for a couple dollars or free in any U-pull yard, look behind the side trim panels in the trunk of any late model vehicle, it will be a relatively small device mounted to the body with 2 wires attached and a reset push button. Note the mounting position and orientation of the switch so you can duplicate it on your truck.
Second: Do NOT use a rubber hose as a fuel line between the tank or pump and the engine, even if it is marked for fuel. Use a secured steel tube from the tank outlet fitting to the engine bay. Use a short length of rubber fuel hose no more than about 6" long between the secured metal tube and the mechanical fuel pump or to a second secured steel line to the carburetor inlet on the engine block to allow for engine movement. This is an ideal location for an inline fuel filter in this flexible section. This is because there is a significant hidden problem with gasahol fuels deteriorating rubber parts in a fuel system, including causing internal breakdown and seepage in rubber fuel tubing. The higher the alcohol content the faster the deterioration. The deterioration is not visible from the exterior until it starts leaking. Having a deteriorating long inaccessible pressurized rubber hose full of gas running parallel to the exhaust under your truck is asking for a disaster. The only flexible hose currently made that is not attacked by the alcohol is teflon lined SS braid covered tubing. but it is not as flexible as neoprene, is expensive, doesn't work with hose clamps and currently has very limited availability.

 

Here is how the tank/line looks now. When I used rubber fuel line I used very short pieces.

 

AX, I read your post and it concerned me about my fuel cell not being street legal. I'm gonna check into that. It makes me nauseous to think the of the work I put into getting that tank where it is now and that I may have to take it out. Oh well lol one more thing to add to the list

 

Reed. That is a bottom outlet fuel cell, you might want to check with your state DMV to see if its legal. Curious, does that cell have baffles in it? Most cells especially plastic ones, don't have baffles, use foam inserts just to prevent foaming instead. Baffles are meant to prevent sloshing and splashing as well as fuel starvation around hard turns and fast starts and stops, you don't want to fuel starve the pump while driving. Does the cell have provision for a fuel gauge sender?
Is your braided line teflon lined?
Personally I would have put the filter between the tank and the pump to keep trash out of the pump, especially with the bottom outlet that will allow any and all foreign material to drain out of the cell. Since it is in a relatively inaccessible location and the tank and line will drain if you remove the filter to change it, I would have used a twist off replaceable cartridge type filter, rather than an inline, mounted with the filter inlet and outlet higher than the tank outlet (best if they were above the top of the tank) so the filter could be changed without needing to completely drain the tank first. Consider what would happen if the fiter plugged up on a road trip just after you had just filled the tank.

 

I put a filter in between the tank and pump plus one up by carb. The tank does have a sending unit. It did have foam in it but it had started to deteriorate so I took it out(bought used). I think I can get replacement foam. I'll look into that screw type filter. But first I got to make sure the stupid things legal lol

 

AX, thanks for the information. Would a mid 60's Mustang tank fall into the gravity fed outlet situation? If so, WOW. I tried to find an in tank pump for my mid 60's Mustang tank thatI installed in the rear like Reed did. I can't find one. So I, like Reed, came up with basically the same installation for the fuel pump setup. I have no room for the original mechanical fuel pump in my engine bay. Reed, how will you put the foam back into the cell if it is legal in your state and if not legal, then what?

Here is a re do that I did not plan for.

 

Some tanks have a bottom bung fitting to use to drain the tank, but it is not meant to supply fuel. Most tanks have a round top opening designed to insert and bolt in the combination fuel gauge float and fuel pickup. The fuel pickup is a tube that reaches nearly to the bottom of the tank. On some vehicles there is a sock or "teabag" filter on the end of the pickup tube.
OK, doing some quick googling I found 2 ways to use an in tank fuel pump.
1. Carter makes a universal in tank low pressure fuel pump designed for carburated engines, it shuts off at ~ 7-8# but they recommend a pressure regulator at the carb, It includes the sender. it's a bit pricey at around 200.00.
2. Aeromotive makes a return pressure regulator #13301 that can be used with a high pressure OEM EFI in tank pump. A return line from the regulator bleeds the excess pressure back to the tank and allows the pump to run continuously. The regulator outlet pressure can be adjusted from 2-20#. It sells for ~ 130.00.

 

Well after seeing how much it would cost to put enough foam in my fuel cell to prevent the sloshing, I could just about buy a mustang tank....so the fuel cell is on Craigslist and I went ahead and ordered the mustang tank... I wish I would have done that in the first place.

 

See this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lp-please.html
Note he is using the same pump you are, and is having big problems with the pump getting gas out of the tank... Installation manual says pump MUST be below bottom of tank.