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Changing spark plugs in 07

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Old 04-03-2011, 08:57 PM
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Changing spark plugs in 07

Im going to take a shot at changing the spark plugs. I run seafoam in the gas about once a month. When researching this here on the forums, some have suggested that may help, Im not sure.
If I have this straight, I should use a piece of fuel line to soak each plug with PB Blaster then let it soak for 20 minutes. Then using a torque wrench or breaker bar ever so carefully try to give them a slight turn.

Now assuming I get them loose has a replacement one piece plug been developed yet? What is everyone using?
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 03:44 PM
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Went ahead and changed my plugs today in my 07, one word, challenging! I had already replaced #8 a month ago because of a misfire, so I bought the other 7 today and decided to do the deed.

Started out with #7, broken, on to number #6, broken figured I'd try #5, broken. Next was a trip to Napa to get the extraction tool. When I got back I thought I'd try #1, no PB blaster and it came out fine. So on to #2, broken. I then said a quick prayer and moved on to #3, it came out fine.

I then proceeded to extract all the broken plugs, some took 2 or 3 times before I could get the tool to bite, but they all came out. Since #4 looked like such a b**ch, I decided not to do it and I am going to have the dealer do it for me, along with a passenger window regulator. I was afraid I wasn't going to be able to get my fat hands back there if it did indeed break, I wasn't going to take a chance on hoping it may come out without breaking.

All in all 6 hours of labor, 7/8 complete. a lot of 4 letter words and some pretty dirty and cut up hands. For anyone else attempting it, ENJOY! it was actually very therapeutic!

Mark
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:52 PM
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I got my oil changed at the dealership today and they quoted me 399 to replace them all and that includes any and all broken plugs. After reading the horror stories I think I am going to pay this.

The guys at the dealership are pretty cool and I talked to the guys a good while and they were laughing and told me that they actually dont mind people trying to change their own plugs because they end up coming to the dealership to get them fixed and that equals more $$ than if the dealership would have changed them in the first place. He told me that he (service advisor) and a team of three techs handle all of the F150/Expy spark plugs jobs together and have it down to about an hour total without rushing.
 
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:08 AM
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..had to change #3 on my 01 f250 5.4 motor..second time in 6 months..seems to me water is collecting in this plug hole either due runnof drain from carwash or natural drainage...the plug itself looked good but I changed it anyway..the key to taking out plugs in one piece is anti seize on threads...the last time I had them changed "professionally" I asked for this ..you get the "we allways do answer"..but the problem is the guy you talk to is not the guy that installs so have him put it on work order...I also ask to have the old plugs put in the boxes of the plugs going in and properly numbered..."expect the deer in the headlights look"..to which I respond "is it deer season allready?"...I'm sure they just love me at the local garage but at 90 bucks an hour..I honestly don't give a fiddler's *&^%...lol...
 
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:54 AM
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There are step by step instructions on here by others that seem to work. It involves soaking the plug before removal with PB Blaster. I would do this regardless.
 
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:21 PM
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Over the weekend I decided it was time to change the plugs (2006 Mark LT 4x2, 5.4, 35,000 miles) with the Motorcraft SP 515’s. Although I knew about the carbon build-up/plug removal issue, I decided not to change the plugs until there was a replacement plug that I was comfortable with…meaning I knew it was a good quality plug in terms of component design and construction. Although I did following the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did…
1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs)
2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster.
3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to)
4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully)
The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really.
Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours.
FYI- Why I choose Motorcraft.
In the 1970’s I ran (like many) Champion’s in just about everything (even had the gold palladiums), but stopped in the early 1980’s when they changed their copper-core design and the resulting quality problems that IMHO still exist today. Since then I have run Splitfire (non-platinum) in my old world (1960’s) cars, Bosch in my late 1990’s vehicles (both because the cylinder head design really prefers these types of plugs), but I really had hesitation because of the construction/component quality of the non-Motorcraft plugs and really questioned the durability in this application about the Motorcraft SP508 or SP 509’s which are single platinum. Given the types of loads and burn/flame promulgation rates in the chambers, I really had doubts about the style of the plug with single platinum having the ability to “survive” as long as they engineers said. What do ya know…the SP 515’s are double platinum.
 
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TIKT B8
I got my oil changed at the dealership today and they quoted me 399 to replace them all and that includes any and all broken plugs. After reading the horror stories I think I am going to pay this.

The guys at the dealership are pretty cool and I talked to the guys a good while and they were laughing and told me that they actually dont mind people trying to change their own plugs because they end up coming to the dealership to get them fixed and that equals more $$ than if the dealership would have changed them in the first place. He told me that he (service advisor) and a team of three techs handle all of the F150/Expy spark plugs jobs together and have it down to about an hour total without rushing.
Set the horror stories aside....many people have very little experience in dealing with issues like this.....read my post below and really, it is pretty easy...heck....I worked a lot harder in the 70's removing plugs from al heads than what i just did with my own 5.4. Not to burst a bubble, but I have yet to been to a dealership that every implied that someone other than an oem tech could do anything other than change oil....and then they even questioned that.

BTW- do you know how to tell the difference between a tech and a mechanic....

The tech washes their hands afteer they use a urnal, the mechanic washes their hands before!
 
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