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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Electrical: In-line fuse with the blinker(turn signal) unit.

 
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:46 PM
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Electrical: In-line fuse with the blinker(turn signal) unit.

Hey again everyone.
I've had some electrical issues that I'm tired of ignoring.
I turned my signals on one day and the two of the wires up to the column--one is coming from the flasher unit, the other going to the rear pass. light--started burning and burnt the flasher unit. A short obviously.
I fixed the wires then basically said I didn't care and have been living without signals for the last 3 months.

I would like to know what should I go off of to select the fuse to use in between the flasher unit and the ignition? Should wattage, voltage, or amperage dictate, what's the difference? How much?
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:33 AM
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Fuses are rated in amps. To explain the difference between amps, watts, and volts takes an entire website of its own. You can do a google search of those words to get definitions and a lesson in electrical engineering.
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:20 AM
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As I recall, the directions told me to install a 14 amp in-line fuse on my signal stat 900 that I installed a few weeks ago.
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mOROTBREATH View Post
...
I would like to know what should I go off of to select the fuse to use in between the flasher unit and the ignition? Should wattage, voltage, or amperage dictate, what's the difference? How much?

volts is the LEVEL of the power, 6,12, 110, 220
amps is HOW MUCH of that power level

watt is a neutral amount of power so you can compare two different sources
it is calculated by multiplying the level times the how much (volts * amps)

110 volts * 20 amps is 2200 watts (divided by 60 watt bulbs will tell you how many you can light on that circuit.)

watts are not usually used as a discussion area on vehicles, cause the consumers are so low.. but 12 volts * 10 amps is 120 watts of consumable power. if I recall, a parking light is like 3 watts and a stop lamp is like 10.

Sam
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:46 AM
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Oh my eyes. You brought back some rough memories Sam. It's too early in the morning to deal with all those amps, volts, watts, ohms law, power, resistance, etc. Too many cob webs up there now.
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:09 AM
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Thank you all so much! I just am not made for this electrical stuff.


I think I'm going to have to rewire the rear taillights for the signals. The signal would short out and not fluctuate properly when Id turn on the signals for the rear passenger, so I left it unplugged thinking I was ok until I fixed that. Well then it started doing it for another direction, I think the rear drivers. Such a weird problem.

Time to rewire.
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:23 AM
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The same thing happened to my truck this spring when I took it out of winter storage. My tail lights had corroded up some and lost a good ground connection. Take a piece of wire and hook it to the back of the light itself (like under the nut on the back side) and run that wire to the frame rail itself and clamp it or stick it under like one of the nuts holding the bumper mount on the truck. See if they start working then. Ten bucks says that's your problem if everything else is wired correctly.
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:48 AM
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^Wow, I'll definitely check that out!
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:57 AM
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I agree a good ground is essential. I don't believe a poor ground will cause wires to melt their insulation. It is a short circuit as you correctly stated. I strongly suggest you find said short b4 you burn up more than wires. A friends 54 recently burned to theground because of an "untraceable" short.
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:41 PM
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Oh I agree. I assumed from his first post that he had a short, found the problem, and fixed it. Now he's got a new problem with the rear lights not reliably working. But if that isn't the case, that short obviously needs to be located and fixed first.

On the F1's (and probably the later ones but I don't know for sure), there is a constantly hot wire that comes from underneath the dash, through the firewall and down to the brake light switch. It usually runs right alongside the supply line for the rear tailights that is controlled by the switch. See if those two wires are frayed or possibly touching. That could possibly cause your original problem if you haven't already found it.
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:02 PM
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Ok here is an explanation of events.

I went through almost every wire in the truck and made mental notes of EVERY wire that was a potential issue, wires that absolutely needed to be replaced, and wires that didn't pose a real threat yet. Nothing going to the rear of the truck looked questionable. In fact, the two wires than were ran for the rear signals were basically BRAND NEW. Someone installed them many years ago but never used them(the wiring to the column wasn't correct so I know the signals were never used)


As for me fixing anything, actually, no I didn't...sadly. Basically all I did was find the trouble wire(signal wire from the column going to rear pass. side light) and unplugged it. And that "fix" actually worked. My signals worked perfect for 3 weeks or so...then one day something funky was up again....it was doing the same thing as before--going haywire like it was shorting somewhere. I traced this one to the rear drivers side wire. When I left only the front lights hooked up, the signals once again worked PERFECT. Only when I hooked up (now....) either of the rear signal light wires did anything go wrong. My brake lights and normal running lights work(actually my brake light switch is bad and doesn't really trigger any more...).



That is my current status. My best idea I have right now is to take all of the "new" wire ran to the rear lights and completely replace it with new wire I just bought. I just don't know what else to do.


P.S.--Actually I found that one of the rear signal wires had fallen to the muffler and melted and I was like "ah ha!", but upon close inspection it didn't get all the way through the insulation.....and that still doesn't explain why my drivers rear signal worked fine for WEEKS until showing the EXACT SAME symptom........ Honestly I'm sort of boggled.
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:02 PM
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Okay. That honestly sounds like your grounds aren't making up enough on the rear lights more than anything else. Before you do anything else, try to jump the grounds over to the frame like I suggested. If you had something really screwed up with the wiring from the start, it never would have worked right to begin with. And, if it was the flasher, the front turn signals wouldn't work either. Do you have one of those signal stat turn signals? If so, there are a ton of those wiring diagrams for the various models in the past threads here on FTE. You can search the threads and probably find one within just a few minutes or do a google image search.
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:28 PM
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It looks to be the original type of signal setup.

About the grounds, there doesn't appear to be any wires coming from the light "boxes", I didn't even know there are supposed to be grounds...What and where should they be?....i mean, the boxes are bolted to the bed of the truck, isn't that the ground?
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:39 PM
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There are no ground "wires" coming from the tailights in the usual setup. The entire frame of the truck and hopefully the attached metal (if it's not rusted, corroded, or loose) serves as the "ground" back to the battery ultimately. That's what makes the circuit for the electrical components to work. What I was trying to get you to do is effectively "bypass" all that metal between the light box and the frame where the ground (i.e. current) should be adequate enough to make the light burn. Make sense?
 
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:57 PM
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Along with the good advice from Doc, if that doesn't help then before you tear out all your wiring make a couple of quick checks. Do an ohms check on your wires going to the rear. Check the wire against a good ground. This will see if you have a short to ground on any of your wires. Check a bunch of them, it's free and could help you out.

I have a few years in electronics and I can tell first hand the thing that caused the most proglems was bad grounds. Not grounds gone but rusty or corroded grounds. It will make you crazy trying to find out what is bad.

good luck
jim
 

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