Today is final order day for the bulk of my resto/mod parts.

I am hoping to have the truck started on by the middle of the summer after everything arrives and I've had a chance to look at the fine detail parts I over looked in the beginning.

I started by cleaning and painting the '73 spindles yesterday and they did turn out nice. Just wish I would have held on to the other fron suspension parts so I could have done the same. Would have been a time saver too.

I should be picking up the balance of parts from my local parts store today too. New rotors and all the steering parts including a p/s pump and gearbox.

I hoep to start getting some pics posted too very soon so stay tuned.

Later

 

I've got a small newbie question that I'm sure someone can explain for me....

Why are they called "slicks"? google has no answer for me.

 

I've only been on this forum since 2010 and I've seen this question a half a dozen times.....maybe we need a "sticky" to answer it!

Anyway...no worries....one of the things I like about this forum is the general friendliness of the members and their willingness to help so....

The term "slick" refers to the slick sided look that the 61-66 F100s have, especially the Stylesides. You have a big expanse of flat sheetmetal that runs almost all the way down the side of the truck.

FWIW....the other year-models have nicknames too.

 

Thanks shortwide, I figured I was probably asking a commonly asked question. I even searched the word slick in the forums, but I only came up with people calling them slicks.

 

Nice truck Texas. Have fun.

 

duplicate post?

 

Parts are still arriving. Received the new Rotors, drag link and tie-rod ends today. All the engine stuff came yesterday and I started on it but decided to hold off and get new motor mounts and a starter. I figured once I have the header on I don't want to have to remove it for anything right away.

Getting ready to order a whole slew of parts from BOTP. Just trying to figure out which arm and leg I'm gonna lose over shipping. Since it will literally be traveling across the country.....This is where I have to be smart in what I order and hope that they combine everything together and ship it all at once.

Transmission that I thought I had settled was yanked out from under me by the dealer. The guy is trying to piece one together to sell but from the way he sounded yesterday, I'm not sure so I need a back-up plan. I've started looking at top-loaders from David Kee and also trying to find a core for him to rebuild. I started another thread here and asked some simple questions so if anyone has an answer, I would really appreciate the help. Two days of looking over all the garbage from searches on the web has put a fork in me.

I know from where I stand it doesn't look like things are coming together but if I step back, having the parts on-hand or ordered is a big step in this process. I'll be very happy when I can get the truck to the shop and start on things not worrying about the state of completion. Not having a garage at home is really a kick in the nads when it comes to this and the fact my shed....where I have to store all my tools......is almost 200ft from the drive makes it even more fun.

Nothing to take pics of yet unless y'all want to see a motor without any manifolds so I'll wait until I complete something before I start.

Thanks for the help.

Later

 

Been a couple weeks since my last post in the log here so I thought I would update things.

Been slow going on things. Ordered a whole mess of parts from BOTP and we should have the bulk of them next week. I would like to say that dealing with Larry there has been absolutly enjoyable to deal with. He has been very accomodating about everything we have thrown his way.

Anyhow, parts have been arriving slowly. The new drivers side floor pan is in, rocker panel for the passenger side plus the bumpers and brake lines have arrived as well.

I finally found a proportioning valve that was from a 79. hope it works okay since I think it was from a F250. All I know is that out of the two pull-your-parts places in the area there were only three, 73-79's available and the others have been picked clean. Also grabed the power steering pump bracket from a F100 but it was a 302. I gotta try something since I cannot find a 300 with power steering to get the brackets off of. I have asked a couple times but there has not been any response so if anyone has an idea I would live to hear it.

I hope to beging the real work in the next couple weeks. I did get the new manifols and carb finally dialed in and the bracket issue I talked about in a different thread....well I came up with something that has worked out rather well.

I did finally take a couple pics of what has been done or things that we've found out and will post them here.

Here is the bracket I made to allow me to drive the truck. When we pull it off the road to do the mods I will make up something more permanent.





Here is the new stuff on the engine. I am planning on finding a nice dress-up kit and maybe a hat with remote air intake for the carb.



The remaining pics are just the problem areas of the truck and where panels will be replaced or repaired.









This is the interior. Not much will change but the color, new instrument panel....a 6 gauge set....seat and carpet. We'll keep the bench but I would like to find something with a center arm rest and better frame. The springs in this one are shot.

 

You can swap just the spindles but you will have to address the king pins. If you go that route, you'll want to get new pins and have them fitted by a machine shop (i do not recommend the nylon ones, they don't last as long). The I-beams in these trucks are pretty durable and usually any damage can be seen by just closely inspecting everything. If the king pins in the donor are in good condition, I'd swap the whole unit. Be sure to use the steering linkage off the donor. Not of anyone re-popping the vent window frames. You'll probably need to find some used ones. I most likely have some good ones around, being out west and all.

 

However, I would like to ask if they make mechanical gauges for that round speedo? My dear wife and daugther like the look of that but I want functional gauges and not idiot lights.

I bought the full gauge package set from a 74 Bronco, it bolts right in and looks like the original gauges. The only thing I know is wrong with it is it says Unleaded Fuel Only at the bottom. I came up with a creative solution to the issue.

There are 3 on ebay right now from $100 to $155.

 

I actually just purchased all brand new steering linkage, new power steering box and new king pins but I guess I should also get the pitman arm as well. Because I planned on this from the beginning, I didn't bother with keeping or taking anything from the donor truck other than the spindles and backing plates. Everything will be new up front except for the I-beams, trailing arms, springs and spindles

However, I am a bit surprised that the king pins allow the brass bushings to just slide on. Maybe I need to address this with Advance since they are to be pressed on. These are brass I am sure of it (metal not plastic) so I hope there will not be issues with things.

I thought about the addition of the mechanical gauges to replace the idiot lights in the truck to retain some resemblance of original truck but I wanted a more hi-po look. In the end I didn't want the tach to be mounted to the steering wheel or dash like we did it "ummburplmf" years ago plus I also wanted to have the larger...more able to be seen...... gauges. I found a nice set and a polished panel at BOTP. I chose the white gauges to also make things stand out better.

Window frames are a lost cause. Dennis Carpenter was to have them out in April of 2009 so when I saw the slot to order them I did. Turns out that they probably won't be available for at the minimum another year and that's too long to decide what to do plus.......mine leak and there's no sense in doing the repairs if water can intrude on things. I may try a fixed window or get some steel channel material and attempt something on my own. There's just no way I am going to spend the money for a donor truck any longer since we gave up on finding a 61-66 for that purpose. Most of the one's in the area are already repaired or need more work that it's worth.

The bed is the only thing I have to address that is being put off. I have to figure out how to remove the Rhino liner and replace the rusted pans with the front corners almost completely gone.. For now, I'm going to remove and treat the rust, fiberglass the areas and then it will get a drop-in liner. Most cost effective option until I can find a donor bed without issues.

I thought about finding a new bed and having the style side fenders welded in but that would destroy a budget that's already been stretched beyond it's limit.

 

The vent frames have been reproduced by concoursparts.com (located in Carson City NV).

Both are obsolete. No one has a NOS left, there are 22 right sides available NOS
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
inre to the P/S pump: Ford changed the pump on everything in 1978 (except Econolines), it has a plastic reservoir. 1977 and earlier pumps have a steel reservoir.

1978 and later: The P/S pressure hose has a straight end with an O-Ring on it. The hose connects to the pump using a qwik dis-connect fitting.

The mounting brackets used with the 1978 and later pump, the P/S pressure hose are not the same as with the 1977 and earlier pump. The P/S pressure hose on the '77 and earlier pump threads on.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford integral P/S gearbox: Since there are no spool valves, other internal parts except seals available, there is no such thing as a rebuilt/remanufactured gearbox available. They are actually "resealed" gearboxes.

These gearboxes have a built in flaw, there are no bearings on the sector shaft, so...withinn a short time, fluid begins leaking from this area.

redheadsteeringgears.com takes the housing, machines it, installs the needle bearings that Ford left out...on purpose...so they could sell a gazillion seal kits.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2B257 = Brake Differential Proportioning Valve: A valve from a 1975/79 anything is not correct. With 1973/74 F100 disc brakes, you need the following:

D3TZ-2B257-A / Marked: D3TA-2B254-AA / Applications: 1973/74: F100 2WD & F250 2WD with single piston caliper disc brakes.

 

Bill,

There is no disputing any of the info you provide but I can't find the frames for the vent windows. I've been to every site imaginable including concourseparts and they have everything but the frame. I typed in wind wing frame, vent window frame, wind wing vent frame and even added assemblies for all of them. This was done for years 1961-1966. Maybe I'm missing something here ....it is entirely possible........so if there is a link to the exact page please provide it.


I bought the power steering pump and gear box for the 1973 as a matched set. Is there a number stamped on the gear-box to tell me what it is? This way I can match it with the numbers you've provided and then I can either return it or keep it. The pump is definitely a metal housing too.

As far as the proportioning valve goes, the one I grabbed was mounted to the steering box on the top with two bolts. I grabbed the bracket as well but it was for I think a 1979 F250. It did have front disc rear drum so I know I covered that. The valve seemed fairly straight forward with fittings but there was no pressure warning sensor. That didn't bother me much since I don't believe the 66 has that light so I didn't think it was going to give me any issues. It would have been nice if it did since I could maybe have used the fitting for the brake light switch but something tells me that may not have worked.

Thanks for the info and any additional help.

Joe

 

Apparently the search on concoursparts.com won't let you find the vent window frames. Download their pdf catalog and you will find the stainless vent window frames for the 61-66 years for $160 each. Page 80 in the catalog, page 83 in the pdf file.

 

Dang! There's a good chance I was headed for crazy but I didn't think I had arrived yet .......

Thanks for the info. I guess 160.00 each is a bit over the top but they have the market. I will call them and get the parts ordered just as soon as I can fit them in the budget. I liked Dennis Carpenter's price much better since both would have cost the 160.00

Actually I may have to rethink the expense since there are a good deal other things I could do with 320.00. I wonder if I could get someone to cut me two pieces of glass for a fraction of that....glue them in place and just make a "tempernent" mod until others can get them on the market?