OK, I ran the buzz test, the volume was close on all 8 (1, 2 and 3 sounded slightly quieter, maybe), but the tones were different. and there was a code that said cylinder 3 voltage low or something like that. After running the test, I started it up and the intermittent problem was definitely present. So I would think that if it was a burned center pin issue the buzz test would have been more definitive. I expected cylinders 1,3,5, and 7 to be significantly quieter, I thought it would be the passenger side because my the EGTs do not go down, in fact they seem to go up a little (to 250 or so at idle) when when it acts up. The pyro sensor is in the drivers side manifold.

Cylinder 3 is on the passenger side, and Greg (gchavez told me that one injector can kill the whole bank. I just wouldn't expect it to Buzz.

I guess I have no idea where to go next.
Any ideas?

 

By the way, a BIG thanks to Greg, and Clay who both helped me out over the phone even though there was nothing in it for them. I appreciate the brotherhood.

 

Am I allowed to bump my own thread? 'Cause I am

Anyone have any suggestions? I refuse to take it to the dealer!!!

 

Good info.
A burned center pin will give you a bank1 or bank2 fault so you can rule that out now. The low side on#3 could be a solenoid issue. When the engine is idling, did you think to look at injector control pressure and duty cycle? I am curious if the duty cycle was around 10% or less with pressure at 600-700 psi...

Since it is so easy to do, I would go ahead and pull the passenger side valve cover and start the engine to see if #3is firing. You are looking for the oil coming out of the discharge spouts. They should appear to be about the same volume and same frequency. You might find that #3 has no discharge or possibly a steady flow...either is bad.

If the whole bank is out, then unplug #3 and see if 1-5-7 come alive. If that happens, then swap #3's solenoid with one of the good injectors and see if the issue follows the solenoid or stays with the injector.

Good luck. Hopefully you will find your issue soon.

 

I will try and check the injector control pressure and duty cycle but I had a hard enough time just doing the buzz test.

The valve cover I can, and will do tomorrow morning.

Is there anything I need to know about swapping solenoids? Like certain torques or anything?

Thank you so much for the help, I appreciate it!

 

You will want to be careful when tightening the solenoid screws so you don't crack the housing. You will have to get a feel for it. One of those not too tight but not too loose things. Wish I had a better answer...

If you do find yourself swapping solenoids, then be sure to make note of where each came from so you can put the correct solenoid back with it's original injector.

 

I unplugged solenoid #3 and started the truck. Immediate improvement, 1, 5 and 7 came to life. Swapped #1 and #3 solenoid, plugged both in, ran very rough. Unplugged #1 started it and immediate improvement. I must have a bad injector solenoid.

I wonder how much they are? And is it likely that they will all start going one at a time?

I am excited though. I think thanks to Greg and others I have found the problem.

 

I'm not so excited now. :-( Dealer does not sell just the solenoid. The truck has 230 000 miles on it, with the original injectors. I can get one from Clay for $125, but are the rest right behind this one?

Will the A&E tell me the condition of the injectors?

Is this the time to get Stage 1s?

 

It's up to you to replace one or all.

I have 330K on my original injectors and not an issue yet so I wouldn't say that you losing 1 solenoid is an indication that the rest are soon to follow.

If I was in your shoes....If I had the money laying around I would do all 8 or stage 1's, if money is tight ( like it is for so many) I would just swap the one bad one and not give it a second thought.

 

Sounds like you found the problem. Good job!
I would just replace the solenoid if you can find a used one somewhere. They can be had around here for $50-$60 ish...
They are pretty durable so I wouldn't worry about the other 7 going out any time soon. Last I checked, International had just the solenoid but their price was about $150 so if you can't find a used solenoid locally, then it's probably better just to get a re-manufactured stick from Clay and send your bad one back as a core.

AE really has no idea how healthy the injectors are. There is something called a Cylinder Contribution Test but that information is limited by the accuracy of the CPS so it's not terribly useful. Sort of like using a yardstick to measure the gap of a spark plug....

At 230k miles you might be a good candidate for new injectors. My injector issues started at 238k miles. First just #7 had a loose armature plate, then #5 split a nozzle and I had enough and sent them all off for rebuilding.

My wife's truck has 187k miles. Around 200k, I am pulling the injectors and sending them out for rebuilding even if the engine is running fine. Could be wasting my time but what the heck, it's only money right?