Ok, so the Brine here in TN is "eating" my truck, so I decided to remove the manafolds, up pipes, and collector to have them ceramic coated. Well I obviously don't posses the magic others must have, who easily removed their manifolds.

On the passenger side, #5 cyl, there is one bolt that won't budge. I'm out of gas right now, so the blue wrench was down. I've modified two sockets and managed to hammer a 12mm socket on that bolt, still to no avail.

Now I've got room on the passenger side, but on the DRIVER's side... ganged up with crap. Seems the engine is positioned slightly more to the passenger side, and I don't even see how I'm going to get a socket and extension on the drivers side.

PB was employed 1st, and through out. How have you guys gotten the manifolds off???

 

I have read the stories about the manifolds being a PITA.I have a little soot around mine and have been waiting for it to get really bad before tackling this.No real help from me,just wanting to be in the loop on responses.

 

heat the bolts up.....that a possibility? works like charm when its possible

 

If I remember correctly, many take the tire off and the inner fender liner, then everythig is exposed and easier to deal with.

 

Can you hit the head of the bolt with a hammer to shock the threads? It sometimes loosens them up without having to resort to heat. Worth a shot. I work on heavy equipment and trucks that are exposed to coal ash dust. The effects of it are caustic and dealing with stuck parts are an everday occurrence.

 

Good luck CPU! I have looked at those before and thought to myself I sure hope I don't ever have to take those off.

 

Get that torch refilled.
"Thermal persuasion" works the best for stubborn parts.

 

I dreaded the though of removal too, especially my passenger side, salt, grime, moisture. Good luck bud...Wished I could be more help except spray, spray, overnite, spray.

 

Moral support may be what the doctor ordered In regards to "hitting the bolt", I worked it hard, and put it up wet with my 4lb persuader.

Here is what I'm up against.

<table style="width: auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From Exhaust Manifolds</td></tr></tbody></table>

Concerning the drivers side, I'd be scared to death to deploy the blue wrench!

<table style="width: auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From Exhaust Manifolds</td></tr></tbody></table>
https://picasaweb.google.com/CasperC...austManifolds#

 

Worst case, cut the head off the bolt so you can get the manifold off. That should give you enough room to get the torch in there to heat things up and leave you plenty of stud to grab a hold of. The extra clearance would make it easier to stick a heat shield in there.

If you've got all the other bolts removed, I'd stick them back in and snug them up. You don't want any torque on the bolt from the manifold hanging there making it more difficult.

Also remember that many penetrating fluids are flammable so be careful before you light the torch up and start applying heat.

 

I have a set of extractor sockets that can best be described as an easy-out on the inside. Spiral cut teeth that grab onto stripped bolt heads like in that picture. And they DO NOT let go. One of the best purchases that I have ever made. Makes childs play of stripped out nuts, bolts, allen head CV bolts, everything.
Might be worth your investment to get the job done.

Matco tools part number MBX13.

Saws & Cutting Tools, Bolt Extractors | Matco Tools Online Tool Catalog

 

Well being the tool mister I am, believe there is a drawer in the box that kit would fit nicely in. Have to make sure I have enough beans though.

After seeing the carnage the bolts left behind in the manifolds, may have to purchase new ones .

 

Budget then look into IRWIN tools versions, available at Oreilly and even Lowes. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0673&ppt=C0099

 

Try mixing up some acetone and ATF 50/50, apply liberally after heating bolt, let soak till cool, give it a turn.

 

this is exactly why i caved, and paid to get this fixed!