So, i bought a 1984 ford f 250 diesel.I'v had it two and a half months now.Turns out the guy i bought it from bypassed a Transmission vaccum regulator valve. I have already droped tranny twice to come to find all this out. I had PRN12 D gears when i bought it kinda stuck in second befor shiffting. About a week and ahalf ago only had 1-2 manualy. first thing i do go after a c-6 trans.Got one outa a 460 (wouldent work) Gasoline/diesel wont work.So I put old one back in. Had to work. Still had 1-2. I did some reasearch found out about the trans VRvalve. I was trying to earn the money today And i blew my tranny(whata B***H) well this morning i had called a guy who had some parts ok craigslist (VRV) still on a motor and a trans sitting on his grage floor. I had my crapy day with tha brown beast. Came home guy calls me back. i go over there in the wifes car. trans came outa same truck so did motor exact twin. Truck sat in the field last 10 years but ran when it was parked. He makes me a dill, I pull the torque converter off the motor he will throw the vrv in free (100 bucks) Should have seen me jump for joy he said u can have the motor two for 100 bucks if u wanna come back and get it later. All starting off with a vrv valve being bypassed 85000 on the truck odometer, man I dont know weather to feel blessed or a lil Pi**ed off i gota do that trans again But i did geta a motor a trans for 200 buck. Whata im really here for is the basics of my cooling system.I wanna know what cools my tranny? I replaced fluid last week. All was burned again today.I Really wanted to just share all this cause Ford forum has help get me threw all this fun stuff. So if you got some tips fill me in thanx...

 

There should be a cooler in the rad with steel lines running between it and the trans.

 

Rusty,

Cooler in the radiator is going to handle your everyday driving but what are you doing with the truck. You have many options. For my dollar, I would install a tranny temp gauge if you are heavy hauling, If its getting hot under normal load you still have underlying issues. If it climbs gradually under load you might need to go to an aftermarket trans cooler.If you are not hauling, that tranny should be fine with the stock cooler, if you can solve your present issues. You have an early IDI which means minimal electronic trans controls, which means pretty simple diagnostics.

Hope you get her rolling,

Mac.

 

Want the good news or bad?? those trucks odometers went to 99999 then back to 00001........as many times as needed. So you could have a million miles on that truck...........sorry.

 

thanx for every ones oppinion, i will have her back on the road in no time. After all iv already done this twice so i think this time it should be a lil faster. so where would a install a new trans cooler? on the trans or on the radiator. I know the fluid runs threw the radiator. i think it may have burned do to the truck not comeing out of second

 

the c6 doesn't have a locking torque converter,so this means much,much higher heat than more moderns trans run.
to top this off,you only had 2nd gear anyway and was working the truck.it's no surprise to see burnt trans fluid in a hurry.
when you get your working c6 in there,make sure the trans fluid flows out of the cooler good.
i had a rusted up trans cooler in the radiator before and burned up a couple trans before i finally put an air hose on the trans cooler and dislodged the problem.young and just didn't know any better.
then you should consider an aux trans cooler as well.
anything at all is better than not having one,be it from a salvage yard on a stock newer truck,or even a old used a/c condenser will work to cool the fluid,a heater core,pretty much anything like this mounted up in the grill to get lots of air will help do the trick good.
anything you can get your hands on cheap or free is worth the time to install.just as long as it's solid so you don't loose fluid of course lol.
its kinda easy to over cool my E40D for many months out of the year im finding.this is not a problem with the C6 though,so toss the largest oil to air finned type cooler you can find on there.

plumb it in after that radiator cooler.

 

if you had her pegged out in second gear then it is entirely possible you burned the fluid up that way. since the fluid got hot running through the radiator where your engine coolant runs its also possible that the antifreeze for the motor got hot too. neither of which is a good thing. best things for you

Get these gauges:

Manual Coolant Temp
Manual Oil Pressure
Manual Trans Temp

a aftermarket trans cooler will go in front of the radiator they are cooled by air passing through. not much air passes by the trans itself compared to the radiator.

 

Pretty much been said already, but I will add my agreement, to put an additional cooler on the trans. Mount in front of the radiator and condenser (if you have A/C). FordF250HDXLT has good advice that almost anything can be made to work, free or cheap is even better. One caution, clean out any old cooler with some solvent and air to make sure you do not contaminate your new fluid. Also use rubber hose for transmission cooler lines, not regular fuel hose. Trans hose is more reinforced to handle the higher pressure. Good luck getting it fixed and running right.

 

if i was you i would piggyback a trans cooler with your cooler in the rad. run the return line from the rad cooler to the trans cooler mounted in front, then run the return from that cooler back to the transmission. you want the oil to go through the rad cooler first, then the other cooler, then back to the transmission. and put a tempguage in to so you can keep an eye on the trans temp

 

All is wonderful, the brown beast lives again she has all her gears again. I just gota figure outhow to calibrate every thing to the right spot. Im shifting in to second at 5 mph and im thinking im not suppose to shift to second till around15 can some one fill me in on when my shifts are proper

 

Proper shifts are up to you really. Try adjusting that vrv on the pump, mine shifted from 1st to 2nd quick and then hung BETWEEN 2nd and 3rd all it took was a tip of the vrv to the front of the truck and i was good to go. I did have issues with it kicking down way to soon to use the tourqe of the diesel, so i have been running mine with the kickdown rod unhooked and even when i stomp on it it still kicks down but its a forced one if i want it to. This guy likes to pick his own gear even with an auto go figure.
Heres the for dway to set it
How to adjust VRV by James

You don't have the engine running for the test, you need to apply 20" vacuum (Hg) to upper VRV port and attach vacuum gauge to lower VRV port. The lower port is the one that goes to tranny, the upper to vacuum pump.
You have to maintain 20" vacuum (Hg) througout this test. If it drops off you need to pump it back up.
Remove throttle return spring, cycle throttle lever 5 times from idle to WOT. Make sure 20" vacuum is maintained on upper port side.
Move throttle so it is 0.515" (33/64") from wide open (they make a tool for this). Vacuum gauge should read from 6-8" of vacuum (Hg). If incorrect adjust VRV to 7".
Again apply 20" vacuum, cycle throttle from idle to WOT 5 times. Return to idle. Gauge should read at least 13".

It says if you can't get the 7" or the 13" to replace the VRV. If VRV checks out maybe the diaphragm (modulator), line from VRV goes to the vacuum diaphragm I believe. Can't find any adjustment for the diaphragm but I think there is a little.

Basically all you need for the test is a vacuum pump (handheld type), vacuum gauge and a ruler to measure 1/2" or a 33/64" drill bit in lieu of the .515" tool. And a screwdriver for any adjustment needed.
Good Luck
James

Note..... 20" vacuum Hg is equal to MINUS 65 Kpa..........

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