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1989 F250 Light Duty???

 
  #31  
Old 04-21-2011, 10:23 PM
CJM8515
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Originally Posted by fast_st View Post
Well, it was part of the 'HD front suspension package' included with camper and snowfighter and available as a toss in option pacakge, now another point, the LD tire size was 215/85-16(D) with 6800 lb gvw. and the 5300(r)/3850(f) gives 9150 pounds and adding the heavy axle takes the combined axle weight to 9900 pounds on a truck that weighs about 5500 pounds empty. I think that with the heavier axle, you also move from load range D to load range E 235/85-16 tires.

I'm also trying to recall back, the HD axle wasn't much cost and I bet if you wanted the bigger tires, they tossed in the HD axle and upgraded the tires.
Its possible, IDK for sure. All I can tell you is ive personally seen 8500+ GVWR with a 44 and a 50 on them before-like I said no rhyme or reason to it. Mine has every package on it under the sun and I have a 44 and I doubt anyone swapped it in.
 
  #32  
Old 04-21-2011, 10:54 PM
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I have an F250 which appears to be an HD version, the GVWR is 8600. I have a d50 front (checked the stamp), which everyone says uses a 6 lug spindle lock nut wrench. I get down to the guts and its a 4 lug nut. I bought a serp belt for it, guy asks the GVWR and I tell him. The belt is too small, which is why the PO had it routed incorrectly - rubbing a scar into the upper radiator hose (he had it running on top of the idler pulley, hitting the tensioner from the pass. side between the alt and air pump acc.). Anyhow the under-8500 belt was like 102" and the over-8500 belt was ninety-something inches. I guess I'm running the LD belt pattern (351 btw) because the 102 fits perfectly, and found what appear (to my untrained eye, this is my first such front end to work on) to be d44 parts used in my d50?

Now I'm afraid to order ball-joints and u-joints online, in case I get the wrong size because the lower BJ has different items for different front axle weights as do the u-joints. I can get a better price online, but not if I have to ship the stuff back to get the right ones. That cuts into the savings.
 
  #33  
Old 04-21-2011, 11:21 PM
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Biggest problem is the trans, throw out bearing will leak shifter will fall apart and trans synchro will fail. As far as the rest of the truck I haven't heard of many problems, the motor has less power but the 302 will run forever and I'm sure you can find some power options from the Mustang crowd.
 
  #34  
Old 04-22-2011, 08:11 AM
fast_st
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Originally Posted by TND View Post
I have an F250 which appears to be an HD version, the GVWR is 8600. I have a d50 front (checked the stamp), which everyone says uses a 6 lug spindle lock nut wrench. I get down to the guts and its a 4 lug nut. I bought a serp belt for it, guy asks the GVWR and I tell him. The belt is too small, which is why the PO had it routed incorrectly - rubbing a scar into the upper radiator hose (he had it running on top of the idler pulley, hitting the tensioner from the pass. side between the alt and air pump acc.). Anyhow the under-8500 belt was like 102" and the over-8500 belt was ninety-something inches. I guess I'm running the LD belt pattern (351 btw) because the 102 fits perfectly, and found what appear (to my untrained eye, this is my first such front end to work on) to be d44 parts used in my d50?

Now I'm afraid to order ball-joints and u-joints online, in case I get the wrong size because the lower BJ has different items for different front axle weights as do the u-joints. I can get a better price online, but not if I have to ship the stuff back to get the right ones. That cuts into the savings.
My D50 IFS uses the 4 pin socket.
When ordering u-joints, the difference is, internal or external snap rings.
I've not had any issues with ball joints, have replaced them a few times, they just ask if its IFS and heavy or light and then greasable or non.

I order some stuff online but I've developed a relationship with my local NAPA, have an account, get a discount that puts them in line with auto-zone prices and as a side benefit, they deliver to my garage if I'm stuck in the middle of something. Its nice to dive in, call and order seals, ujoints, balljoints, gear lube, filters and oil, tear into it and a couple hours later the truck arrives and drops it all off.
 
  #35  
Old 04-22-2011, 10:43 AM
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TND - That's exactly what i'm afraid of! When it comes time for me to start working on the ball joints and bushings, or any front end stuff, i'm not going to know which ones i need because i don't know which ones i have!

Joe - Unfortunately, i think you're exactly right! According to the recipts that i got with the truck, it has the mazda R2 trans . The good news is that it has just been rebuilt with a lot of the items that you mentioned. Hopefully, it will hold up for a few years.

I'm supposed to get the truck back today. The i worked out a deal to have the rear main seal replaced at no charge. The scoop on the rest of the truck is as follows: 302FI rebuilt - less than 1000mi, 5spd rebuilt - less than 1000mi, New clutch, New headers & full dual exhaust, and much more.

Drives pretty good and runs great. I will need to do some front end work to get the slop out of the steering wheel. But it drives straight and doesn't wander much from what i can tell the little that i've driven it. I might try to post a pic if i can figure out how to do it.

How difficult is it to replace the ball joints/front end bushings?
 
  #36  
Old 04-22-2011, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by FarmTruck1 View Post
TND - That's exactly what i'm afraid of! When it comes time for me to start working on the ball joints and bushings, or any front end stuff, i'm not going to know which ones i need because i don't know which ones i have!

How difficult is it to replace the ball joints/front end bushings?
Ball joints are pretty easy,
Remove brake caliper, lock hub, rotor and bearings
Unbolt and remove the spindle (big urethane hammer helpful here, never use a metal one)
slip the axle out and you're ready to attack the ball joints, try your best to extract the cotter pin on the top one, the lower is just a locknut, torch can be handy if you're very skilled to slice the nuts, easing removal. With some coaxing the spindle drops free, remove the snap ring on the bottom joint. The tool you will need is a C frame press, remove and reinstall with this tool takes about 5 minutes for both. The reinstall is tighten the bottom one first, then the top one to spec.

wirebrush the rusty parts of the spindle and put anti sieze where it goes into the knuckle.
 
  #37  
Old 04-22-2011, 04:27 PM
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I think we have the same truck. '89 f250 5.0L, mazda 5speed, leaking rear main seal. One difference is neither my engine nor tranny have been rebuilt. I'm not impressed with the 5.0L (302) in a truck. My '84 F150 w/351W has a lot more low end torque. Thinking about swapping the 351W into the '89.
 
  #38  
Old 04-23-2011, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by FarmTruck1 View Post
TND - That's exactly what i'm afraid of! When it comes time for me to start working on the ball joints and bushings, or any front end stuff, i'm not going to know which ones i need because i don't know which ones i have!

Joe - Unfortunately, i think you're exactly right! According to the recipts that i got with the truck, it has the mazda R2 trans . The good news is that it has just been rebuilt with a lot of the items that you mentioned. Hopefully, it will hold up for a few years.

I'm supposed to get the truck back today. The i worked out a deal to have the rear main seal replaced at no charge. The scoop on the rest of the truck is as follows: 302FI rebuilt - less than 1000mi, 5spd rebuilt - less than 1000mi, New clutch, New headers & full dual exhaust, and much more.
Tell you what though, my friends dad had two trucks for his logging buisness, a one ton chevy Cheyenne with dual rear tires, a 454 v8, an automatic trans and four wheel drive. Here was the second truck: a 1990 ford f150 with a 300inline 6, mazda 5 speed trans, 4 wheel drive, etc. He was trying to tow his john deere 4510 4x4 tractor on a trailer. First of course he hooked it up to the one ton chevy, and it did not want to tow it well at all. He hooked the trailer up to the 1/2 ton ford and it handled it. Maybe not the worlds best but it towed it alright. He did many good size loads with that truck over and over. He ran 80w90 gear lube in the transmission when i believe it actually called for automatic transmission fluid. That transmission held up time after time, and so did the rest of the truck. It did idle funny, but in low range four wheel drive and 2nd gear it would really do great when he had to get to the equipment that broke down out in the woods. HE WOULD GET THERE, not much for back packing his tools to the equipment... That transmission should hold up a while, i loved my 302 in my 1/2 ton for many reasons, usually put out good power and always ran strong. If you are going slow like moving a hay wagon in the field you can always save on all of your drive line parts (including clutch wear) by putting the truck into low range. That works well, except for then you are using your four wheel drive. Good luck, i would not be so worried about it yet.
 
 
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