I noticiced a small drip of oil on my garage floor and found a small amount of oil drip from the ?bell housing,next to starter behind oil pan.Back of valley is just slightly wet with oil.HPOP isnt leaking.My engine is cleaned and hpop is bone dry as well as fuel bowl.The epbv rod if that is what its called is completely wet with black oil.I believe this may have been going on for a while now cause I did notice a drip hanging from the inspection plate months ago.Question is can I manage this myself.Ive done all my mods listed below but never removed turbo.I know I should replace the pedistal orings while Im in there.I read there is a non epbv pedistal.Is that a better solution since I read welding is involved in doing the delete which I dont do.What other parts may I need?This is a daily driver with 95000 on clock and cant afford more than a 2-3 day down time.Trying to find step by step write up on this as well..I do believe this is a very
slow leak but want to get it done b4 its a big one.Special tools needed?I there anything I may need to order just in case it breaks trying to remove it?Any help advice or links is appreciated as this repair has me thinking I might get in over my head.

 

Removing the turbo is not really that hard, just takes a little patience when reinstalling as it can be troublesome with the limited access. You would easily be able to remove the turbo and just rebuild the EBPV to stop the leak. If you decide to delete the pedestal you can get a non-EBPV pedestal too. You do not have to weld anything but removing the pedestal, you should gut the valve or replace it with a high flow outlet.

The pedestal rebuild kit runs about a $100. The non-EBPV pedestal is about $118, and the high flow outlet is another $100.

Turbo removal instructions are HERE

 

If you're on a tight budget - there are write ups for gutting both the valve and pedestal. IIRC these either fill the now empty holes with freeze plugs or by threading them and using threaded NPT plugs.

It's not quite as elegant of a solution, but it is affordable. It is more time consuming however, assumes you already have the various tap or drill bit sizes and assumes that you're proficient at using them. If you have to buy taps and drill bits, you won't save much monay with this method. Typically - it's a solution that folks choose because they're hardcore do-it-yourself types on a Sunday afternoon because the hardware store is still open and they need their truck on Monday.

Both solutions work. Planning ahead and ordering the ready-made parts up front takes the guess work out of it and saves you a few hours on a job that is already fairly time consuming. :-)

Any time you pull the turbo - especially if it's been awhile, it's a good idea to replace the mounting bolts and O-rings, which you can get from Clay at Riffraff, or Guzzle's page.

 

thanks for the reply and links.I posted two pics of the oil covered rod in question.They are in my albums ..Cant figure anyother way to post them..
This is the epbv rod correct?

 

Yep, that is the EBPV actuator rod. Pretty messy and more than likely your issue. The pedestal can be rebuilt with the kit listed above. Cost would be roughly $120 for the rebuild kit and turbo reinstall kit.

 

Thanks, am I better of rebuilding it or eliminating it? Is this likely to happen again? I assume its easiest and far less cheaper to rebuild it and put itback on..but its leaking at 95000 miles and I plan on another 95000 miles at least...I read its easiest to loosen manifold pipes when reinstalling.. Can it be done without doing that. Mine are original and dont appear to be leaking and would probably snap or round the bolds anyways..

 

From what I can gather, the primary function of the EBPV is to help the engine warm up faster in very cold weather, but haven't heard of anyone having problems with it gone.

Mine is technically still there, but the rod is disconnected and the butterfly permanently held open. (Switched from early '99 to late '99 parts, and my actuator rod doesn't quite reach the valve with the 38R installed - so at 2 am when I needed the truck the next day, I wired the valve wide open as a temporary fix and left the rod disconnected.) I haven't had any problem with it, and if it's running any different I haven't noticed. When I get some free time, or have another oder in with Clay anyway, I'll just order the blank pedestal and valve.)

My EBPV Solenoid is still in place and connected, but I'm pretty sure it can be replaced with a resistor to avoid throwing codes once the pedestal is replaced. It's been awhile since I looked at all this, so I'll have to do some more reading before then.

 

I use my EBPV as a brake with my tuner, so I would keep mine. The EBPV is used to help warm the truck up, so if you would like that to remain keep it and rebuild. The main reason to delete it is when the bore gets damaged and then they will always leak. You can get used ones on eBay but you run the risk with them too. I just picked a pedestal up for $25 shipped, I plan to rebuild it and keep it as a spare. That way it would be a little quicker if mine ever starts leaking.

You can leave the manifold bolts tight, but it may be easier to just loosen them up. Bolts are cheap and there is no seal at the manifolds, only at the collector where the donuts are. That leads to another thing you may want to have on hand. The donuts do leak over time and that would be a prime opportunity to swap them out. Not a big deal as longs the up-pipes are not damaged.

 

You could just unplug the ebpv solenoid at the front base of the turbo pedistal. That should keep it from leaking as it wouldn't actuate.

 

I was wondering that myself.. Even if just for a short term fix.. Im sick of that jet engine kicking on every cold morning when I leave the firehouse as im sure the neighbors are as well.. Lol