Thanks I have been hunting for the e-brake backing plates for sometime, I am going to order them right now

 

Nice write up but that asbestos is not going to jump out and get in your lungs. It needs to have particles floating in the air that you injest. My uncle cut up asbestos siding for years with a skilsaw.

 

With all that rust and brake shoe dust it was tempting to blow the whole thing out with compressed air, which would certainly fluidize the particles. Otherwise I agree, the risk is minimal, just don't go snorting the stuff. I just wanted to let others know the potential hazards involved.

 

For those looking for the axle nut socket, Mile Marker makes the socket, # 15009-01 and it is for all F250, F350 and Excursions with the 10.5 rearend.

I found it at AutoZone.com priced at $20.99 with $6 shipping. The OTC 6601 socket part number is much more expensive at the $40+ range

Thank you for the great write up GUNNERDOG. I will be tackling this job next weekend. I hope the socket info helps others.

 

Thanks for the socket info. Post back when you are done and let us know how it went!

 

I like the 4lb hammer! I use them alot on stuff like this! If it dont go with a hammer, get a bigger hammer! lol Awesome writeup!

Edit: is there a seal on each side that needs to be replaced?

 

That's probably the worst thing in the world to do when it comes to asbestos. Your uncle might never have a problem with it, or he hasn't YET.

The best way to deal with brake dust is not with an air hose. WET it and wipe. Brake cleaner works perfect for this.

 

I thought he meant be carefull of the new shoes themselves, I agree that blowing it out with air is a bad idea. My uncle's job was installing pure asbestos (white) siding on houses..........he's dead now.

 

I did mine yesterday it was not a bad job at all but the four nuts on the back side were tough, I had to use a cheater bar most of the way to get them off. I now have an E brake and it works.

 

Ended up replacing the whole assembly, those back nuts would have been hell had it not been for my impact. Only hard part on re-assembly was torquing the Caliper support bolts to 202Lbs.

 

Great Post Thanks, I need to do the same thing, Passenger side rusted out.

 

Expired. I hope someone got to use it.

Just got an email from Rock Auto that my coupon code is about to expire... i didn't know i had one...

anyway, i am not going to use it, and it said "anyone you know" so i thought i would offer it up here so it wouldn't go to waste. not sure how much it is for, but first come first served!

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Your RockAuto discount code 55620474619051 will expire on June 26, 2011.

If you or anyone you know is thinking of doing some vehicle repair, now's the time to order the parts!
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Reps for the write-up!

 

I was just doing rotors and pads, and had an aweful sight when taking off the 2nd rotor: the parking brake hardware failed, back shoe was lodged outward, grinding against the inside of the rotor's "drum area". Frantic calls on a Sunday noon found pbrake shoes and a hardware kit 20 miles away. Plopped down my $92 came home, only to find the hold-down pin slide RIGHT ON THROUGH the hole in the backing plate!

Searched through my hardware stash and found a 1" OD/1/4" ID fender washer and that was good to provide good footing for the head of the pin, but now the pin doesn't have enough protrusion to get the spring clip on the other side.

Helpful folk at the local Pep Boys (yeah, surprised me too!) first tried a hardware kit from a Ford Exporer, but that was WAY too long. The other parts guy (a Chevy enthusiast) went back and pulled out Pro Stop Kit #H7276 which fits "Chevy pickups" (sorry, don't know any more info than that!), and those pins were about 1/2" longer, enough for the flat (not tapered seat, like that of the backing plate) hole and extra thickness of the washer.

My '05 is now back on the road.

Best, Mark

 

MA certainly does nasty stuff to cars & trucks... and every time I work on my MA truck, I have the same pile of scale sitting on my driveway.