Flathead Engine Help.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: concord nc
Flathead Engine Help.
Well i got the oil pan off my 239 yesterday afternoon. put the truck into neutral and spun it all the way over. it sticks pretty bad on the 2 pistons that was all the way down when they get to the top. the oil that came out of the pan had adviously never been driven. it looked like it was brand new. the crank, bearings and connecting rods all look good. but being as though the 2 cylinder walls are a little rusted they are probably pitted so i will need some boring. i guess i will complete my tear down. which leads me to my next few questions.
1) am i going about this the right way?
2) will my regular engine stand work?
1) am i going about this the right way?
2) will my regular engine stand work?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,777
Likes: 553
From: Kalispell, MT
quote: "it sticks pretty bad on the 2 pistons that was all the way down when they get to the top"
say what?? lol
Likely 2 cyls had valves that were open as it sat. Honing at least, would be a good idea.
1: yes - there isn't a wrong way to open one up.
2: Which flathead 239? Late series (48-53) will be ok on a regular engine stand, but don't use a cheap HF stand with one leg up front - use a heavy duty stand since flatheads weigh over 500#s. Those 3 point stands tip too easily.
say what?? lol
Likely 2 cyls had valves that were open as it sat. Honing at least, would be a good idea.
1: yes - there isn't a wrong way to open one up.
2: Which flathead 239? Late series (48-53) will be ok on a regular engine stand, but don't use a cheap HF stand with one leg up front - use a heavy duty stand since flatheads weigh over 500#s. Those 3 point stands tip too easily.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: concord nc
i will take lots of pics and post tomorrow. the 2 are sticking at the top of the stroke. i can push past it but they are sticking at the top. i will tear all the way down and sent off to pressure test/hone/bore or whatever it needs. i will then replace all bearings/pistons/rings/ valves/valve springs. i dont think i will replace the crank or pushrods. they look great.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,965
Likes: 261
From: East KY
Hey xcrunner, we've asked this before. But why don't you post your location in your control panel? Maybe there's somebody nearby who can help out.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 133
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From: Hillsboro, Or
When I rebuilt my flathead I made a 3/8 plate that bolted to the exhust side of the block and cut a thick wall steel pipe that fit the engine stand and welded it to the plate. can't remember the angle to cut the pipe on the plate side. But this works a lot better tan connecting to the back of the block. A lot more even on weight when turning the block over to disassemble and assemble there is pic in my profile of the engine on the stand.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Not mine, and this is "extra fancy" with the chain-drive to rotate, but you can see the type of plate 5 Star is talking about. They are sold on eBay, and as heavy as these blocks are, unless you are a good welder, I'd just buy one. Also note the 4-wheeled stand as MT suggested.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,776
Likes: 2
From: springfield il
let us not forget ross that ford themselves once upon a time called the lifters " pushrods " in their own manuals ............. so technically he's right in calling them that if that's what he's refering too .......
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,776
Likes: 2
From: springfield il
true on going whole hog . when i first got my 53 it had one bent valve and a bad guide . replaced them and drove it as much as i could till the 1 valve spring collapsed and the wiring went up in smoke literally . all i'm replacing in the flatty before it gets dropped into a straight frame and the rust repaired in the body and dropped on it as is ... is the cam is getting swapped for the merc 8cm , new oe lifters , new elgin springs and stainless valves ( which would not have been replaced had the old ones been ground just a few times , not leaving enough for another go around for lash adjustment ) and locks , and timing gear . why mess with anything you don't have too ?????? oh and an intake and carb swap . all relatively easy things to do and the short block which is sound is untouched and saves me or in your case if it is , money for other things and one less thing to wonder where the hades you laid the parts too it ...............
