Never done the swap but from reading I've done you can put a Bronco tank in there. You'd need a new sending unit, new tank straps or skid plates and have to relocate the spare tire.

 

Ain't that the truth

 

I'll be doing this swap in the next couple days, if you'd like, I can try to take some pictures as I go along for reference. I'm probably going to deal with the sending unit tomorrow...see how that goes

 

Here's my sending unit, brand new out of the box, except I already pulled a hose clamp off.

Here it is, cut in the spot recommended by the instructions.

Here's the copper piece soldered in, as recommended by the instructions. Make sure to line it up the way it's supposed to be...not twisted around.Also make sure it's sturdy, so it won't break off under normal stress. You'll want a good, strong solder joint. I thought about using JB weld too...but I'm not sure how it holds up in gasoline. Someone else can chime in on that.

I tested continuity for all my wires after hooking them up. Don't want to find out I made a bad connection after it's all back up there and full of 38 gallons of gas. Use crimping pliars if you're going to use crimp connectors...they make the strongest connections. The cheap multitools are bad at crimping, and actually they aren't good for anything.

Here it is, all finished up. All the wires have good connections. I was test fitting it along the way, and it seems the pickup makes it to the bottom of the tank as it should. I used fuel hose and hose clamps to hook up the feed side, as it was originally in the first picture.

 

i hope it works out for you. one question, why would you go to the effort of soldering in a new pipe but then use butt connectors and not solder to connect the wire extensions?

 

I agree, butt connectors are not the strongest way.

The strongest way is what my autoshop teacher taught us.

Twist, solder, liquid electrical tape, and Shrink wrap.

Take the two wires to be connected together, place some shrink tubing of correct size, length and color on one end. Take one wire and twist a loop into the one end. Thread the second wire through the loop you made, then make a second loop. Then twist the two wires together tight. Solder the two wires together. Add a little liquid tape to the splice. Then use the shrink tubing as insulation.

If done correctly, this splice will be the most pull resistant and weather proof you can make.

I'm not sure I like the idea of those butt connectors being soaked or even potentionally soaked in gasoline.

 

8 f1,

I wish my shop teacher would have actually went to the effort of teaching me... He was ready to retire so I didn't learn as much as I should/could have because he didn't feel like teaching. Sure he helped a little bit with 9/10 times he was in his office surfing the net.

 

I know how to solder, but you can't pull butt connectors apart by hand if you use the correct crimping pliars. Never had a problem with them when you use the correct tool. I've had a LOT of experience with these style connectors, unfortunately most people use them incorrectly (using the cheap multi-tool or wire cutters to make the crimp)

 

These are what come in the kit by the way...I trust a proper crimp connector over these anyday

 

Not the same sending unit or extension kit as mine, what's your application ??

 

And I agree about garbaging the snap connectors, but I will be doing everything I can to make sure I won't have to do it again.

 

It's for an '88 w/ the 300 and EFI. Should be pretty similar, though

 

Thanks a bunch 91chevywt, awesome pics and info! Very helpful to know what's involved. When I get mine it will not have the in tank pump, but it should be the same procedure.

Glovemeister, thanks as usual for attempting to hijack the thread and not adding anything of relevance or value.

 

I wouldn't trust those connectors at all.

I'm not fond of the butt connectors either. I will only use them for temporary repairs myself. To each their own devices I suppose.

My camera will not let me take a picture close enough, but I made a picture using paint of a professional type wire repair that is very pull and water/element resistant. Maybe this will help explain what I said earlier, better.




There are also different color shrink wraps, factory terminals, factory connectors, Markers (to mark the stripes or dots), electrical tapes, and other tools that can be used to restore a wire and harness to like new condition.

 

Excellent info guys! When I connect two wires I'll usually just twist them together, solder, shrink wrap. Great idea with the loop, so simple but surely adds a lot of mechanical strength to the connection.