Blue Oval Saga Pt. II-Michelle
#586
I've done several axle pivot bushings...
If your putting poly bushings into a 2wd, you actually don't need to pull the metal bushing sleeve out of the beam. Just cut, drill, or melt the rubber out of the sleeve. I always use a sawzall and/or a drill to loosen up the bushing in the sleeve and pull it out. If there happens to still be some rubber inside the sleeve I use some sandpaper to get them cleaned up and toss the poly bushings in it.
For 4wd trucks or 2wd trucks getting rubber bushings I use a sawzall and cut through the bushing and the metal sleeve in two or three spots. Usually the rubber is so worn out that it will come right out and you can work on the sleeve by itself. After you've made a couple relief cuts, use a punch and hammer to hit the old sleeves out. I tried using a ball joint press to install new bushings/sleeves and it didn't work all that well, so I just hit them in with a hammer.
Overall it's really not that bad of a job. It does pretty well suck on a D50 TTB to get the beams bolted back up b/c the leaf springs are so tough to move around, but that's really the hardest part is getting the holes lined back up and bolting them back in.
If your putting poly bushings into a 2wd, you actually don't need to pull the metal bushing sleeve out of the beam. Just cut, drill, or melt the rubber out of the sleeve. I always use a sawzall and/or a drill to loosen up the bushing in the sleeve and pull it out. If there happens to still be some rubber inside the sleeve I use some sandpaper to get them cleaned up and toss the poly bushings in it.
For 4wd trucks or 2wd trucks getting rubber bushings I use a sawzall and cut through the bushing and the metal sleeve in two or three spots. Usually the rubber is so worn out that it will come right out and you can work on the sleeve by itself. After you've made a couple relief cuts, use a punch and hammer to hit the old sleeves out. I tried using a ball joint press to install new bushings/sleeves and it didn't work all that well, so I just hit them in with a hammer.
Overall it's really not that bad of a job. It does pretty well suck on a D50 TTB to get the beams bolted back up b/c the leaf springs are so tough to move around, but that's really the hardest part is getting the holes lined back up and bolting them back in.
#587
I've done several axle pivot bushings...
If your putting poly bushings into a 2wd, you actually don't need to pull the metal bushing sleeve out of the beam. Just cut, drill, or melt the rubber out of the sleeve. I always use a sawzall and/or a drill to loosen up the bushing in the sleeve and pull it out. If there happens to still be some rubber inside the sleeve I use some sandpaper to get them cleaned up and toss the poly bushings in it.
For 4wd trucks or 2wd trucks getting rubber bushings I use a sawzall and cut through the bushing and the metal sleeve in two or three spots. Usually the rubber is so worn out that it will come right out and you can work on the sleeve by itself. After you've made a couple relief cuts, use a punch and hammer to hit the old sleeves out. I tried using a ball joint press to install new bushings/sleeves and it didn't work all that well, so I just hit them in with a hammer.
Overall it's really not that bad of a job. It does pretty well suck on a D50 TTB to get the beams bolted back up b/c the leaf springs are so tough to move around, but that's really the hardest part is getting the holes lined back up and bolting them back in.
If your putting poly bushings into a 2wd, you actually don't need to pull the metal bushing sleeve out of the beam. Just cut, drill, or melt the rubber out of the sleeve. I always use a sawzall and/or a drill to loosen up the bushing in the sleeve and pull it out. If there happens to still be some rubber inside the sleeve I use some sandpaper to get them cleaned up and toss the poly bushings in it.
For 4wd trucks or 2wd trucks getting rubber bushings I use a sawzall and cut through the bushing and the metal sleeve in two or three spots. Usually the rubber is so worn out that it will come right out and you can work on the sleeve by itself. After you've made a couple relief cuts, use a punch and hammer to hit the old sleeves out. I tried using a ball joint press to install new bushings/sleeves and it didn't work all that well, so I just hit them in with a hammer.
Overall it's really not that bad of a job. It does pretty well suck on a D50 TTB to get the beams bolted back up b/c the leaf springs are so tough to move around, but that's really the hardest part is getting the holes lined back up and bolting them back in.
#590
I tried to change my pivot bushings in the truck... it sucked. Not much trouble smashing the old ones out (I didn't even cut them, just some beer muscles and a BFH), the problem was I couldn't get a clear shot with the BFH to drive them back in. Finally got one side done, cussed myself for trying to take a shortcut leaving the axles in the truck, took the other one completely out, and used a balljoint press to install.
Factory bushings are flared on the end so they don't back out. I don't have anything big enough to flare those, so I just tack welded them to the axle housing and painted black.
Done and done. Hardest part after that was just getting the axle halves back in the truck.
Factory bushings are flared on the end so they don't back out. I don't have anything big enough to flare those, so I just tack welded them to the axle housing and painted black.
Done and done. Hardest part after that was just getting the axle halves back in the truck.
#591
Got another update guys...
Michelle is officially 217,250 miles old, and has gotten some new parts.
-New Water Pump
-New Radiator Core Support Polyurethane Bushings
-New Radiator Core Support
-New radiator (Since my fan decided to smash the other new one, 2 days before I started on the Radiator Support. FML)
And roughly 500 miles ago, I got 2 new Master Craft P235/75/15 All Season Tires mounted on the back.
Here's some update pics.
Since the Energy Suspension instructions were very vague and generally as clear as mud...
I traced down a pic of how the original bushings/bolts went and subbed the new bushings for the old, and came up with this:
Michelle is officially 217,250 miles old, and has gotten some new parts.
-New Water Pump
-New Radiator Core Support Polyurethane Bushings
-New Radiator Core Support
-New radiator (Since my fan decided to smash the other new one, 2 days before I started on the Radiator Support. FML)
And roughly 500 miles ago, I got 2 new Master Craft P235/75/15 All Season Tires mounted on the back.
Here's some update pics.
Since the Energy Suspension instructions were very vague and generally as clear as mud...
I traced down a pic of how the original bushings/bolts went and subbed the new bushings for the old, and came up with this:
#592
More updates...
This was on 4-5-2014 @ 217,404.6 miles:
This was on 4-5-2014 @ 217,404.6 miles:
- Greased all the steering components
- Noted a small coolant leak on the lower Radiator Hose
- Added 1 gallon of water to the Radiator
- Pulled Distributor Cap/ Rotary Button and cleaned the terminals (2-9/32" bolts)
- Noted some milkiness and "Debris" on the oil dipstick, looks to be some small sludge particulate matter.
- Noted the Ground strap to Radiator Support is not connected (Mounting tab broken off)
- Noted possible Lower Pitman Arm Shaft leak, except with no loss of Power Steering Fluid. Weird..
- Greased the U-Joints again...Just because.
#595
4-12-204 @ 217,765mi
Washed the mud off Michelle yesterday and picked up some filters.
Air Filter PN# R88174
PCV Filter PN# 88976
Both are Car-Quest part numbers.
Picked up some 1/4'' x 3/4" bolts/nuts/washers to "Retrofit" the airbox lid. The OEM "Sleeves" that the bolts actually bolt into, to close the box up, had stripped, seized or what have you and now I'm just gonna use good old nuts and bolts to replace them.
Here's what I started with:
New PCV hose installed:
And how I'm putting the airbox back together:
The old Air Filter from the JY intake box:
My Fan Shroud is back in place finally:
Air Filter PN# R88174
PCV Filter PN# 88976
Both are Car-Quest part numbers.
Picked up some 1/4'' x 3/4" bolts/nuts/washers to "Retrofit" the airbox lid. The OEM "Sleeves" that the bolts actually bolt into, to close the box up, had stripped, seized or what have you and now I'm just gonna use good old nuts and bolts to replace them.
Here's what I started with:
New PCV hose installed:
And how I'm putting the airbox back together:
The old Air Filter from the JY intake box:
My Fan Shroud is back in place finally:
#597
#598
#599
5-7-2014 @ 218,868mi
I think I'm almost convinced to swap my interior back to the grey it originally was.
The maroon I have now, has been in 2 trucks, and is starting to look a bit..Shabby.
As for what I did to my truck?
I cleaned it out at work...
Slid the seat forward, and collected all the loose change.
Swept under the seat, and re-routed the seatbelt receptacles back into position (They'd fallen down)
Collected all the stuff from inside the truck, and sorted it out. which cleared a LOT of space out in the interior.
Re-positioned my amplifier to under the seat, so now I have some storage areas behind the seat again
The maroon I have now, has been in 2 trucks, and is starting to look a bit..Shabby.
As for what I did to my truck?
I cleaned it out at work...
Slid the seat forward, and collected all the loose change.
Swept under the seat, and re-routed the seatbelt receptacles back into position (They'd fallen down)
Collected all the stuff from inside the truck, and sorted it out. which cleared a LOT of space out in the interior.
Re-positioned my amplifier to under the seat, so now I have some storage areas behind the seat again
#600
5-8-2014
Just finished extending the wires for my windshield wiper pump.
Now I gotta get a section of tubing and an inline hose barb fitting and I'll have the relocation done.
Just need to either fab up a support brace for the Drivers Side Battery tray mount, or better yet, pick one off a JY diesel truck.
That's the ONLY thing I need now, to fit the auxiliary battery in and wire it up.
Now I gotta get a section of tubing and an inline hose barb fitting and I'll have the relocation done.
Just need to either fab up a support brace for the Drivers Side Battery tray mount, or better yet, pick one off a JY diesel truck.
That's the ONLY thing I need now, to fit the auxiliary battery in and wire it up.