Electrical Troubleshooting
#1
Electrical Troubleshooting
Been trying to find the source of my problem. Would appreciate any pointers.
I have a 2001 F250, auto, 4x4 with 220,000 miles.
Went out the other morning to start and I have no lights on the dash (WTS, parking brake etc). Obviously, I get no response when I try to start the truck. Even the power door locks do not work. Overnight, I did have the block heater plugged in.
Checked all the fuses and they all look fine. When I tested I have 12V at the batteries and at the fuse box in the engine compartment. However, I show nothing on any of the fuses in the passenger compartment.
Did a search for similar issues and here is what I have done so far.
I have tried removing the fuel bowl heater, no change.
I have tested with the fusbile links by the starter solenoid removed. No change.
Is there a wire I can trace that supplies the fuse box inside the truck? Possibly another fuse or fusible link that I am missing?
Since I have no power to the inside fuse box, I assume the ignition switch is Ok? Is this correct?
What about the started solenoid?
Thanks for helping a newbie.
I have a 2001 F250, auto, 4x4 with 220,000 miles.
Went out the other morning to start and I have no lights on the dash (WTS, parking brake etc). Obviously, I get no response when I try to start the truck. Even the power door locks do not work. Overnight, I did have the block heater plugged in.
Checked all the fuses and they all look fine. When I tested I have 12V at the batteries and at the fuse box in the engine compartment. However, I show nothing on any of the fuses in the passenger compartment.
Did a search for similar issues and here is what I have done so far.
I have tried removing the fuel bowl heater, no change.
I have tested with the fusbile links by the starter solenoid removed. No change.
Is there a wire I can trace that supplies the fuse box inside the truck? Possibly another fuse or fusible link that I am missing?
Since I have no power to the inside fuse box, I assume the ignition switch is Ok? Is this correct?
What about the started solenoid?
Thanks for helping a newbie.
#3
#5
I would check the basics first. Remove the battery cables and clean the posts and cable connectors down to shiny metal, check the batteries for voltage and check the water level of each cell, apply a dialectic grease like Noalox to the posts, then reassemble.
Lets us know what you find.
Nick
Lets us know what you find.
Nick
#7
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#9
Well, I failed to follow my own advice. Start with the basics.
When I went out on Saturday, I found I no longer had any reading on the batteries. So, I'm not sure how I was getting 12V earlier.
So, I brought out the battery charger one more time. Even though my battery charger read “0-charged” when first connected, the needle moved when I left the charger on for several minutes. After several hours on the charger, I once again had 12V and the electrical systems were working.
I went and examined the engine block heater and found a break in the line. Best guess is a short in the block heater drained the batteries over night. Can't believe they lost all their juice in one night. But the good news is I'm back up and running.
Thanks for all the pointers.
Rob
When I went out on Saturday, I found I no longer had any reading on the batteries. So, I'm not sure how I was getting 12V earlier.
So, I brought out the battery charger one more time. Even though my battery charger read “0-charged” when first connected, the needle moved when I left the charger on for several minutes. After several hours on the charger, I once again had 12V and the electrical systems were working.
I went and examined the engine block heater and found a break in the line. Best guess is a short in the block heater drained the batteries over night. Can't believe they lost all their juice in one night. But the good news is I'm back up and running.
Thanks for all the pointers.
Rob
#10
The block heater gets it's power from a wall socket when you plug it in. It has no connection to your battery system. You still have the original trouble that drained your batteries. I suspect that the batteries are not very healthy. Did you by chance check the level of water in each battery cell? I would have the both batteries load tested, and have the alternator tested as well.
Nick
Nick
#11
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ardenvoir, Washington
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I agree with Nick.. you still have a problem to solve. And yes, check the fluid level of each cell.. If you add water, recharge the batteries.. After "fully" charging the batteries, you can also check each cell with a hydrometer..(napa sells one for $20). Any weak cell, it's time to buy new batteries..Always buy in pairs..
#12
Replaced the batteries about 18 months ago. They are "maintenance free" so I can not add water.
Also, replaced the alternator about 50K miles ago. No lights on dash that there is an issue. What should I check - output?
Has been starting and running fine the last 2 days. Hoping nothing else appears!
Also, replaced the alternator about 50K miles ago. No lights on dash that there is an issue. What should I check - output?
Has been starting and running fine the last 2 days. Hoping nothing else appears!
#14
EDIT: Regarding your battery issue. Check to make sure that your GP relay is operating properly. They can stick closed, which will create a full time current drain.
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