6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Battery and alternator wire upgrade

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #16  
Old 03-15-2014, 02:14 PM
daddykitty's Avatar
daddykitty
daddykitty is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: tonopah, az
Posts: 834
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
that looks like a dfuser coolant filter
 
  #17  
Old 03-15-2014, 02:45 PM
chromedom's Avatar
chromedom
chromedom is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fraser, Michigan
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by BigDirty
Thanks for the post! I saw you put on an IPR external oil cooler…I think. How do you like it?
I think your seeing the coolant filter. Thought about it but seen on youtube where a person did a full install and didn't make much of a change (according to him) in temp, but easier to change the oil filter. No luck on the lugs, kinda buried.
 
  #18  
Old 03-15-2014, 03:06 PM
BLADE35's Avatar
BLADE35
BLADE35 is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Saratoga Springs,UT
Posts: 18,707
Received 59 Likes on 41 Posts
boy been awhile since I saw this thread
 
  #19  
Old 03-15-2014, 04:35 PM
BigDirty's Avatar
BigDirty
BigDirty is offline
New User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh. THought I saw traded lines to an aluminum oil filter cover. Thanks
 
  #20  
Old 03-15-2014, 05:18 PM
chromedom's Avatar
chromedom
chromedom is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fraser, Michigan
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by BigDirty
Oh. THought I saw traded lines to an aluminum oil filter cover. Thanks
That is for my oil bypass filter.
 
  #21  
Old 03-15-2014, 09:36 PM
LivingLarge's Avatar
LivingLarge
LivingLarge is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 26,410
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Chromedom, I actually had this done recently and found this thread from 2011 very helpful. Thanks for posting it, I finally received my dc power 320 amp this week and just popped it in on Tuesday. How is your DC Power holding out?
 
  #22  
Old 03-16-2014, 12:31 AM
BLADE35's Avatar
BLADE35
BLADE35 is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Saratoga Springs,UT
Posts: 18,707
Received 59 Likes on 41 Posts
Originally Posted by chromedom
Most of the parts were purchased from CustomBatteryCables.com.
Good to see you checking back in Dave

Hey My Reman Alt Died LOL it died 13months and just under 5K

Your right the stereo KILLED IT

At that point I was tapped out for Alternator Money Kinda I had called DC Power told them what I had for stereo and they said that 185amp would do Fine

MY GOD Think back on it in that 13 months I spent Almost $900.00 Bucks on Alternators I should have the Best one Made LOL!!!! But I Should Hate it when crap happens

SO I got a 190amp it had better Idle amps advalible

They Gave me a Wire upgrade cable from DC But I was thinking the other day I really should do the Grounds To

Did that Inductive amp meter come from Custom battery cables.com its on my List for a Standalone Gauge
 
  #23  
Old 03-16-2014, 12:39 AM
BLADE35's Avatar
BLADE35
BLADE35 is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Saratoga Springs,UT
Posts: 18,707
Received 59 Likes on 41 Posts
Originally Posted by LivingLarge
Chromedom, I actually had this done recently and found this thread from 2011 very helpful. Thanks for posting it, I finally received my dc power 320 amp this week and just popped it in on Tuesday. How is your DC Power holding out?

I am Curious to he should have some pretty good miles on it Now

Just looked I only have 25,000 Miles on my DC 190 BUT my Stereo does work it if I crank it up

But that's 20,000 MORE Then Reman FORD LMAO!!!!!!
 
  #24  
Old 03-16-2014, 06:14 AM
chromedom's Avatar
chromedom
chromedom is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fraser, Michigan
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by LivingLarge
Chromedom, I actually had this done recently and found this thread from 2011 very helpful. Thanks for posting it, I finally received my dc power 320 amp this week and just popped it in on Tuesday. How is your DC Power holding out?
Glad you found it helpful. My 250XP has been great! No more power problems. When my Optimas cycle time was up went with the odysseys (pricey but seems to be a good match).
 
  #25  
Old 03-16-2014, 06:41 AM
chromedom's Avatar
chromedom
chromedom is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fraser, Michigan
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by BLADE35
Good to see you checking back in Dave

Hey My Reman Alt Died LOL it died 13months and just under 5K

Your right the stereo KILLED IT

At that point I was tapped out for Alternator Money Kinda I had called DC Power told them what I had for stereo and they said that 185amp would do Fine

MY GOD Think back on it in that 13 months I spent Almost $900.00 Bucks on Alternators I should have the Best one Made LOL!!!! But I Should Hate it when crap happens

SO I got a 190amp it had better Idle amps advalible

They Gave me a Wire upgrade cable from DC But I was thinking the other day I really should do the Grounds To

Did that Inductive amp meter come from Custom battery cables.com its on my List for a Standalone Gauge
Yep, the 190 will do fine.

Upgrading the grounds along with the positive wire is almost (if not more) as important. This tool for the frame ground made it easy to clean it up.


Pilot Bonding Brushes


Name:  Ziebart 054.jpg
Views: 4796
Size:  173.5 KB
AutoMeter Cobalt Gauges




For the ammeter it's for measuring audio amp wires. Not very under the hood friendly and expensive. Works good most of the time, but when the heat gets to it (mostly in the summer), it gets finicky. The red button is to select speed response on the ammeter. Always keep it on slow, does less jumping around.

Note: Fuel Pressure was before the blue spring upgrade.
 
  #26  
Old 03-16-2014, 08:07 AM
LivingLarge's Avatar
LivingLarge
LivingLarge is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 26,410
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by chromedom
Glad you found it helpful. My 250XP has been great! No more power problems. When my Optimas cycle time was up went with the odysseys (pricey but seems to be a good match).
Great to hear its been problem free. My only concern is I had mine painted and it took about 3 months to get, so I kept my OEM just in case I need to send the DC back if it fails during warranty period.
 
  #27  
Old 03-16-2014, 12:53 PM
chromedom's Avatar
chromedom
chromedom is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fraser, Michigan
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by LivingLarge
Great to hear its been problem free. My only concern is I had mine painted and it took about 3 months to get, so I kept my OEM just in case I need to send the DC back if it fails during warranty period.
Didn't have mine painted, but have my old one as a backup (didn't fry it before the change. Emergency use only!!!) LOL
 
  #28  
Old 03-16-2014, 10:41 PM
Snuggyworm's Avatar
Snuggyworm
Snuggyworm is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,263
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
since we're on this topic, i do have some questions. the positive connector which connects to the passenger side battery seems like it was scorched a little. it looks a little copper-ish. should i be worried about it? if so, maybe i should just change the connector?

also, i'm not too sure about my grounds. maybe someone could tell me where to look and what to look out for. thanks.

lastly, my passenger side battery is leaking off the top side. i'm starting just fine. it starts quick and should i be worried about my battery? i just cleaned it up real good. she still starts fine. it was replaced last year in february. should i get it replaced again?

thanks guys!
 
  #29  
Old 03-17-2014, 07:39 AM
chromedom's Avatar
chromedom
chromedom is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fraser, Michigan
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Snuggyworm
since we're on this topic, i do have some questions. the positive connector which connects to the passenger side battery seems like it was scorched a little. it looks a little copper-ish. should i be worried about it? if so, maybe i should just change the connector?

also, i'm not too sure about my grounds. maybe someone could tell me where to look and what to look out for. thanks.

lastly, my passenger side battery is leaking off the top side. i'm starting just fine. it starts quick and should i be worried about my battery? i just cleaned it up real good. she still starts fine. it was replaced last year in february. should i get it replaced again?

thanks guys!


Does it look like this?
Name:  Battery Cable end.JPG
Views: 4728
Size:  208.0 KB

If so, I think the battery acid got to it and ate the coating on it. if it starts crushing like the picture start thinking about replacing it IMOP.

As for the battery leaking already it should be under warranty and would exchange it. I would replace it.

The main grounds for the batteries are: Passenger side, on the underside front of the engine by the balancer. Driver side, under the air cleaner and might need to move aside the CAC tube, on top side of the frame. if you see corrision on the grounds than clean them. if your starting fine, I wouldn't worry about it.

Dave
 
  #30  
Old 03-17-2014, 12:32 PM
Snuggyworm's Avatar
Snuggyworm
Snuggyworm is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3,263
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by chromedom
Does it look like this? If so, I think the battery acid got to it and ate the coating on it. if it starts crushing like the picture start thinking about replacing it IMOP. As for the battery leaking already it should be under warranty and would exchange it. I would replace it. The main grounds for the batteries are: Passenger side, on the underside front of the engine by the balancer. Driver side, under the air cleaner and might need to move aside the CAC tube, on top side of the frame. if you see corrision on the grounds than clean them. if your starting fine, I wouldn't worry about it. Dave
Thanks Dave! The info will help a lot.

Yeah, only the positive terminal connector on the passenger side battery looks like tat. Everything else is fine. Any suggestions on a good replacement terminal connector? Someone had mentioned the noco battery terminal from O'Reilly's.

Thanks,

Dom

Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
 


Quick Reply: Battery and alternator wire upgrade



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:00 PM.