Correct egr/distributer carb port?
#1
Correct egr/distributer carb port?
I finally got a carb ordered in from the auto parts store that didn't have a bowl vent fitting for evaporative emissions (there was another thread where I was dealing with that) but now, the carb that I have, has it's vacuum ports a little different than the original.
**When I first got this truck, the vacuum lines were a mess, so I don't know that anything was correct
On the old carb, I had a port right on the bottom front, that was connected the the distributor's vacuum advance. The new carb has no port on the front. As for my egr, it is currently ran off the manifold tree, but I was told that it should be off the carb. I have two ports to work with on the new carb, one on the passenger side bottom, and one on the rear just above the pcv fitting. I was thinking that the dist should maybe connect to the side fitting, and possibly the egr to the rear, but I'm not sure
Any help would be greatly appreciated
*Truck is a '76 F-150 with a 360
**When I first got this truck, the vacuum lines were a mess, so I don't know that anything was correct
On the old carb, I had a port right on the bottom front, that was connected the the distributor's vacuum advance. The new carb has no port on the front. As for my egr, it is currently ran off the manifold tree, but I was told that it should be off the carb. I have two ports to work with on the new carb, one on the passenger side bottom, and one on the rear just above the pcv fitting. I was thinking that the dist should maybe connect to the side fitting, and possibly the egr to the rear, but I'm not sure
Any help would be greatly appreciated
*Truck is a '76 F-150 with a 360
#2
Ok, so taking another look at the old thread, it appears the port on the back is for the egr, I just really need to know if that port on the side is for the distributor, or maybe it should go to the manifold tree? Anybody with a 360, mind just taking a quick look at where their vacuum line for the distributor attaches to?
#4
#6
#7
The EGR valve should go to ported vacuum, not manifold vacuum. The EGR port should be next to the driver side idle mixture screw. If not, just find a ported vacuum source on the carburetor (above the throttle plates). It should have no vacuum at idle, but it will start to have vacuum as the throttle plates open. The vacuum tree sources manifold vacuum; so you don't want it hooked up there.
The spark port is under the choke housing on the passenger side as Death85e has said.
The spark port is under the choke housing on the passenger side as Death85e has said.
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#8
The EGR valve should go to ported vacuum, not manifold vacuum. The EGR port should be next to the driver side idle mixture screw. If not, just find a ported vacuum source on the carburetor (above the throttle plates). It should have no vacuum at idle, but it will start to have vacuum as the throttle plates open. The vacuum tree sources manifold vacuum; so you don't want it hooked up there.
The spark port is under the choke housing on the passenger side as Death85e has said.
The spark port is under the choke housing on the passenger side as Death85e has said.
I think the thing that saved the truck from running poorly at idle, due to the egr valve pulling vacuum, and opening at idle, is the fact that the egr valve seems to be stuck closed (hooked my hand held vacuum pump to the back of the egr valve, and it didn't move, even with 20" vacuum on it) From reading other threads, I see that the egr valve is required for the way that egr motors are tuned, so I will replace it as soon as my wallet permits.
Thanks for everyone's help
#9
Well this is odd. Of all the issues with the old carb, the one thing it did great was idle, now that's the issue that I'm having with the new carb. After I installed the new carb, the truck would barely run at idle, it was just running too slow. I ran the idle adjustment screw all the way in, and that brought the idle up to a point where it would just stay running, but it was running very rough. I checked the idle mixture screws, and they were set at about 2 1/4 turns out. I turned the screws out another turn each, and that smoothed out the idle a bit. I didn't go out any further on the screws, because I figured that would make it run too rich? It revs good and smooth, just seems to idle too dang slow?
I took it for a drive and found that it drives out pretty good, but when you hit the throttle, it hiccups, but then takes off like a bat out of heck. I thought maybe the timing was off, so I checked it. I found it was at 8 degrees before TDC, which I think should be right? I hooked up a vacuum gauge and found it reading 15". The gauge indicated that would be late ignition timing, but I had just checked that. I was thinking that the vacuum could be low, just because the engine was running so slow, but I don't know.
I took it for a drive and found that it drives out pretty good, but when you hit the throttle, it hiccups, but then takes off like a bat out of heck. I thought maybe the timing was off, so I checked it. I found it was at 8 degrees before TDC, which I think should be right? I hooked up a vacuum gauge and found it reading 15". The gauge indicated that would be late ignition timing, but I had just checked that. I was thinking that the vacuum could be low, just because the engine was running so slow, but I don't know.
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