accessing inside of sliding door on '02 e150
#1
accessing inside of sliding door on '02 e150
I need to remove the lower interior panel on my '02 e150 sliding door to fi the handle.
All of the instructions I find start with removing a Phillips screw, but the only ones visible are on the support arm and the window latches.
How do I get at the insides, given that the door doesn't work (initially outer, and now inner handle as well don't seem to be pulling on anything)
thanks
hawk
All of the instructions I find start with removing a Phillips screw, but the only ones visible are on the support arm and the window latches.
How do I get at the insides, given that the door doesn't work (initially outer, and now inner handle as well don't seem to be pulling on anything)
thanks
hawk
#2
I had to take the door panel off my '03 for the same reason.
You will have to remove the window latch screws (3 each) to get the upper panel off before you can get the lower panel and see what's going on in there.
I still haven't fixed my handle situation since I found a way to pop open the door with a screwdriver with the panels off.
EDIT:
Here is the thread I made about the issues with my door. I can explain more about getting it open if needed.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lp-needed.html
You will have to remove the window latch screws (3 each) to get the upper panel off before you can get the lower panel and see what's going on in there.
I still haven't fixed my handle situation since I found a way to pop open the door with a screwdriver with the panels off.
EDIT:
Here is the thread I made about the issues with my door. I can explain more about getting it open if needed.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lp-needed.html
#3
Thanks, that was kind of critical
The first five screws came out easily, but the last one was tougher than my screwdrivers (overtorqued after an earlier repair?)
So after a quick run to harbor freight for an extractor kit, I broke off the head.
With it off, I was able to pull the lower out past the upper:
top of lower panel pulled out
Do I now just use these panel tools to work my way around the bottom, or is there another screw to remove? I was expecting one in the upper left.
So I put the testosterone down and stopped (but it's not like I asked for directions . . ).
We'd like another three or four years out of this thing, if we can. My wife's back to staying at home, and I've mentally written it off already as being wrecked by one or the other of the twins as they learn to drive (kind of past due. *way* past due . . [driving, not totalling it!])
My wife doesn't drive much anymore, so if it survives the twins, it would be nice if it would last until I can get a smaller pickup with full self driving . . .
The first five screws came out easily, but the last one was tougher than my screwdrivers (overtorqued after an earlier repair?)
So after a quick run to harbor freight for an extractor kit, I broke off the head.
With it off, I was able to pull the lower out past the upper:
top of lower panel pulled out
Do I now just use these panel tools to work my way around the bottom, or is there another screw to remove? I was expecting one in the upper left.
So I put the testosterone down and stopped (but it's not like I asked for directions . . ).
We'd like another three or four years out of this thing, if we can. My wife's back to staying at home, and I've mentally written it off already as being wrecked by one or the other of the twins as they learn to drive (kind of past due. *way* past due . . [driving, not totalling it!])
My wife doesn't drive much anymore, so if it survives the twins, it would be nice if it would last until I can get a smaller pickup with full self driving . . .
#4
#5
It turns out that the inside handle is part of the mechanism. A board (to repair my pool table) had been pushing against the panel.
So I got the panel out of the way, revealing
I removed the three yellow bolts. I'm not sure whether I should be more surprised that they were T-27 or that I had one. (or, that my neighbor also had one once mine fell down where I can't reach with the closed door . . .)
The blue is not a bolt, and fastens the power lock mechanism.
So I now have
I can wiggle it back and forth a bit, but that's all.
am I supposed to rotate it? Is there a way to reach in and open the door?
thanks
So I got the panel out of the way, revealing
I removed the three yellow bolts. I'm not sure whether I should be more surprised that they were T-27 or that I had one. (or, that my neighbor also had one once mine fell down where I can't reach with the closed door . . .)
The blue is not a bolt, and fastens the power lock mechanism.
So I now have
I can wiggle it back and forth a bit, but that's all.
am I supposed to rotate it? Is there a way to reach in and open the door?
thanks
#6
The lock solenoid bracket is riveted on. I've never worked on a slide door but it looks like both cables need to be activated at the same time. I would remove the solenoid to gain access to the latch to see what's up. Sometimes the bracket that holds the solenoid has slots so the solenoid can be pried off. If it's not slotted you'll need to drill out the rivet. To do that drive out the pin in the center of it with a pin punch, or awl and drill with a 1/4" bit. To reattach the bracket you can use a 1/4" fastener with a nylock nut.
#7
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#8
I managed to get my door open by using a flat blade screwdriver. There is a metal lever on the bottom left of the mechanism, just below the handle.
It looks like there is a round rubber piece on the back side of this lever.
I just pried down on that lever and it released the latches and the door slides open. I still haven't fixed mine since it's only used for camping or commuting these days.
It looks like there is a round rubber piece on the back side of this lever.
I just pried down on that lever and it released the latches and the door slides open. I still haven't fixed mine since it's only used for camping or commuting these days.
#9
It occurred to me during the middle of the night, while I was *trying* to sleep, that the back end of the sliding door releases first (doesn't it?), at which point it sticks out slightly.
So I'll the mucking around in the world up front isn't going to release it.
I'll take a peek later today.
So I'll the mucking around in the world up front isn't going to release it.
I'll take a peek later today.
#10
hmm, my last response, complete with pictures, disappeared.
It's occurred to me that that with the door "closed" the latch is grasping the frame, which explains why I can barely move it . . . it needs to release before taking it off is on the table.
Reaching behind the latch and pushing up on the cable where my finger points released the back, and gave me a small gap up front.
I can see the "loop" that I assume is mounted on the frame that I assume the latch seizes on to. I assume that I can pop it out with one of these panel tools, or maybe a screwdriver, if I know what direction to push.
Can anyone provide a picture of the frame loop (?) and the latch on an open sliding door?
And a couple of seconds of video of what the latch does when the handle is operated(opening) would be *really* useful).
It's occurred to me that that with the door "closed" the latch is grasping the frame, which explains why I can barely move it . . . it needs to release before taking it off is on the table.
Reaching behind the latch and pushing up on the cable where my finger points released the back, and gave me a small gap up front.
I can see the "loop" that I assume is mounted on the frame that I assume the latch seizes on to. I assume that I can pop it out with one of these panel tools, or maybe a screwdriver, if I know what direction to push.
Can anyone provide a picture of the frame loop (?) and the latch on an open sliding door?
And a couple of seconds of video of what the latch does when the handle is operated(opening) would be *really* useful).
#11
If you haven't done it, I would disconnect that solenoid so you can pull the latch out and see what's going on. I've never worked on a slider but I'd be looking for a way to activate both those cables. I think there's 3 latches that need to be activated, at the same time, for the door to open.
#12
Disconnecting the solenoid is apparently doable up top, but if the latch functions the way I've come to think it does, then its claw is still through the frame loop, and I won't be able to rotate it much (although, depending upon the angle, rotating might pull the jaw from the loop).
thanks
oh, and the back of the door releases *before* the front, and latch after when closing., if that makes any differene
hawk, who is learning more about these latches than he ever wanted to know . . ,
thanks
oh, and the back of the door releases *before* the front, and latch after when closing., if that makes any differene
hawk, who is learning more about these latches than he ever wanted to know . . ,
#13
#14
#15
OK, my college age daughter can now do it with a tent peg from the second row seat, and I can do it from the passenger door.
Here is the pin for the solenoid assembly:
And here is as good an image as I can get from the other side:
I'm thinking that I can use a catspaw either outside the door or between door and mechanism frame and the flanges will flatten as I pull it out? With luck, I could re-use it!
A couple more pictures for folks facing this in the future:
This is the inside frame that the door meets with
Here is the pin for the solenoid assembly:
And here is as good an image as I can get from the other side:
I'm thinking that I can use a catspaw either outside the door or between door and mechanism frame and the flanges will flatten as I pull it out? With luck, I could re-use it!
A couple more pictures for folks facing this in the future:
This is the inside frame that the door meets with