It is. It's a PLGR.

There's another current thread here that might make interesting reading for you:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html

Pop

 

Definately interesting reading Pop, I have both starters, will have the OEM one rebuilt by a local shop that I have do all my rebuilds for the fire dept for the past 20 years or so. I'm all about having serviceable spare parts on hand.

I'm willing to eat the investment for science, does it spin faster?

Will get some resistance checks, voltage drop, amp draw and rpm data to help fill in all the blanks that exist in just about every post on the subject.

Also an excuse to use some snazzy tools. That's for next week, then a 1400 mile test drive to help a friend pick up an rv.

 

So that means that after the Mitsubishi's rebuild that you'll also try it back in the truck for the same tests for comparison? That WOULD be ideal!

And, as you say, fill in some specifics for the knowledge base here.

Pop

 

Definately, its only a few minutes to swap. My present starter seems fine but its got 200k on it and its on its third set of batteries so that'd be two instances of starting on low batteries multiple times, can't be good for it.

 

Swapped out the starter first notes:

Cranking speed cold seems a little faster maybe 5%
cranking speed hot seems about 20% faster

Amperage is hard to tell, its all over the place at 280-300 amps for both starters, I think I need to cobble up an inductive coil and attach it to the oscilloscope to get a better idea of the average draw.

Waiting on the laser tach to arrive still.
old starter is in the shop for an overhaul.

 

You indicated you were thinking it was time for new batteries, too. Have they been changed yet for this test?

Pop

 

Is there a way to measure the voltage at the starter at the same time (watts )that you measuring the current? How about measuring the temp of the motor and starter before each test?

 

You bet Pop, 2 new same date Motorcraft batteries, charged and tested before install, loctite sealer around the posts, posts and terminals scrubbed and polished, greased, new terminal bolts and everything torqued down.

Bad batteries and connections are the nemesis of diesel starters.



I'm planning on measuring voltage drop on both sides (+/-) to see if an
additional ground cable would be of use. I'll likely add one anyway, why run battery current through a dozen bolted connections.

Though if the resistance of the battery cable were accurately measured, the current flow could be measured by voltage drop.

 

i have 2003 7.3 6 speed it orginally came out with 3 whole starter and it went out and i put the new 2 hole on it but it keeps breaking the ears off so i found 2000 modle that has the bolt hole will that work?? it looks all the same but the 2000 starter is a little longer

 

Sounds like something more serious there, maybe there's a nick on the opening that's preventing proper alignment? I'm about to get around to doing rev checks on mine to see which is faster if either.

 

Yup. It should sure work for you.

If anything, you may have to dress the wire to it slightly differently, but that should be a virtual non-issue.

Just make sure you have a third bolt on hand to use. I'd use Grade 8's for all three. They're cheap enough. Use Grade 8 lock washers, too. Torque to spec, whatever that is.

Pop

 

so just reading the thread i have a zf6 trans and its a three hole starter, i wanna upgrade to a better one truck is a 2000 f350 chasis cab anyways, i wanna put either the 03 7.3 starter or the 03 6.0 starter. which would be the better fit and any mods to be made. reason i ask i have full charge on batteries and truck feels like it has no battery power to turn starter and ive replaced stock starter from oriely's 3 times now under their warrenty. its my main truck for work and i need it to be reliable.

 

I had the same problem with a couple AutoZone starters. Each one lasted a couple of months. They just kept gradually getting weaker, felt like they were getting turned by weak batteries. Put a Ford starter in, haven't had a problem for about a year and a half now. It's the stock 2 hole starter that they carry for the 7.3. Still turns over much faster than the AutoZone starters did new.

 

These were the O'Riley's starters and are 3 hole I just don't want to spend money on starter for no reason

 

Sounds like O'Rileys starters aren't holding up. I don't know what the difference between a Motocraft 7.3 starter vs Motocraft 6.0 starter, but the original Motocraft replacement vs the AutoZone replacement is night and day. There's a reason the other starters are so much cheaper.