I have an idea to try making my future coolant changes easier. I'd like to be able to attach a ball valve to at least the drivers side block plug to do a more thorough draining of the cooling system during flush cycles. I didn't bother removing either block plug during my last change because it seemed like so much trouble and I wanted to avoid taking a coolant shower. As it turned out for me, even after 14 flushes I didn't get it totally clear. I plan to give it another shot when I can make the time.

So I'm wondering what size and type the threads are for the block plug so I can try this idea out on my next flush. Diameter? Thead count? Metric? NPT?

Anybody know this or have access to an already open block plug to check it out?

 

I bought some of these for my next flush and was given part # 3C3Z-6026-DA.

I haven't used them yet so I hope I was given right part.

I paid $4.80 each from local dealership if you wanted to get those measurements yourself from a clean, new part & reduce possibility of wrong info, causing you to put together incorrect valve assembly.

 

this is a little extra work but works good
when I flush I take OUT the thermistate and put in 2 bottles vc-9 cooling system cleaner
run at high idle for 30-45 minutes then drain pulling lower hose and driver block drain plug
flushed clear on the 3rd or 4th flush.(its the cleaner and volume of water that cleans it)

did it once with vc-9 with the thermistate in samething 14th flush and still dirty even pulled the block plug each time With the thermistate in did not work

might want to think about a coolant filter since it was a dirty one

 

Thanks Piolet. It might not be a bad idea to have extras on hand anyway.

BLADE35, I saw that method discussed before. Someone posed the idea though that the reason for getting a 'cleaner' result this way was only because of less heat and turbulence without the thermostat in place. It was suggested that the system wasn't actually cleaner, only that the stuff was still lodged in the system due to less heat & turbulence. I can't remember where I read that, just throwing it out there for consideration.

I did the Coolant Change 101 procedure with VC-9, Simple Green, and without the thermostat change. I previously ordered a thermostat but decided not to install it at that time.

And, Yes, after seeing all that stuff in my coolant system, I'm sold on the coolant filter idea. I plan to incorporate that installation with the next flush.

 

Sorry, but I can't help you with the thread pitch on this one. I would suspect NPT since I don't think it's o-ringed. If that's the case then it should be relatively easy to find a valve for it.

Personally, I would leave the thermostat IN to do the chemical treatment and remove it to flush the system clean. The chemical needs to be at normal engine operating temperature for at least an hour to be effective PLUS the cool down time required to remove the thermostat will give it a chance to work a little longer.

 

Just looking at it, I thought 1/2" NPT or NPTF.
But then there's this excerpt from TSB 08-23-1 which instructs to "Lightly lubricate the O-ring seal on the cylinder block drain plug with clean engine oil before installing."
Like I said, I haven't removed mine so I don't know for sure.


npccpartsman, maybe that was one of your posts where I read about leaving the thermostat in for the chemical flush. It makes sense to me. Although I'd like not to have seen all the crap still coming out at flush 14, sometimes reality just hurts.

 

I looked up that part number this it what it said it is..I wish they wouldn't abbreviate it..lol

3Z3Z-6026-DA: PLG-CYL BLK OIL LIN

 

This plug does have an o-ring.

 

Thanks Piolet, a picture's worth a thousand words.

I can see that's definitely not NPT threads. Since the driver is 8mm hex, I'm bettin' the threads are metric, too.

Now if you only had a simple caliper micrometer to check the diameter of the threaded shaft. And a ruler to measure the distance from one thread crest to the next.

 

Nice information. Never had one out to know, but it looks very similar to a fuel rail plug so it may be an M12x1.5 also. Cheezit might know or be able to compare them.

 

I have read it takes an 8mm ball head hex.

That seems about right from looking at the piece.

 

Your best bet would be to take an OEM plug, and drill and tap it for your drain ****. No need to recreate the plug threads.

 

shure does look like a fuel rail plug

 

You could very well be right. If I remember, the drawing the guy showed me of the engine on his computer had this part pointed to in a few locations.

 

maybe he could put in one of those easy WIF drains