my bracket to stop your frame from cracking at the steering box
#26
#27
NICE mod...No doubt ill rig something like you have here and start restructuring the whole ball of wax up front.
Just found the similar crack on my 96. The area behind the coil buckets was swiss cheese when i replaced them. I plated but only used bolts. I blame that for being part of the reason. True, it is a 20yr old truck. I'm also from the northeast which is really the culprit. They love to apply calcium chloride for all the fools that can't drive in slick. Tell your legislator to convert over to beet juice ice melt. It also benefits the farming industry!
The thing with the ford frame designs is that they are great because they put a ton of steel webbing on there, but the negative is the webs leave pockets for water to trap and kill it. Other manufacturers go real light but spend the saved cash in heavier coating or it just drains because it's so open. Word to the wise, if you like your truck, assess drainage and coatings before the problems. This is obviously true for body parts also.
I've used a great seam sealer across areas such as the radiator support. I intend on doing it to the coil bucket mating areas also. It's Loctite PL roof sealant. Urethane based, very tough, very permanent and will stick to absolutely anything. Once i saw it bond thick aluminum flashing together to the point of ripping the flashing. I sealed and bonded a pair of boots with it. Think about it: it's perfect for the auto being it withstands terrible heat, expansion and weather. The only drawback is since it dries somewhat rubbery, it probably shouldn't be painted unlike conventional seam sealer. So use it in under-body places like i did and paint first. (its a nice jet black, should stick to POR, but I haven't tested that yet.) You can get it at any hardware/building store for 6 bux a caulk tube. What's not to love?
I can go on about corrosion all day...
And wtf...I thought this steering box cracking was only a 73-81 GM C/K problem, right?
Just found the similar crack on my 96. The area behind the coil buckets was swiss cheese when i replaced them. I plated but only used bolts. I blame that for being part of the reason. True, it is a 20yr old truck. I'm also from the northeast which is really the culprit. They love to apply calcium chloride for all the fools that can't drive in slick. Tell your legislator to convert over to beet juice ice melt. It also benefits the farming industry!
The thing with the ford frame designs is that they are great because they put a ton of steel webbing on there, but the negative is the webs leave pockets for water to trap and kill it. Other manufacturers go real light but spend the saved cash in heavier coating or it just drains because it's so open. Word to the wise, if you like your truck, assess drainage and coatings before the problems. This is obviously true for body parts also.
I've used a great seam sealer across areas such as the radiator support. I intend on doing it to the coil bucket mating areas also. It's Loctite PL roof sealant. Urethane based, very tough, very permanent and will stick to absolutely anything. Once i saw it bond thick aluminum flashing together to the point of ripping the flashing. I sealed and bonded a pair of boots with it. Think about it: it's perfect for the auto being it withstands terrible heat, expansion and weather. The only drawback is since it dries somewhat rubbery, it probably shouldn't be painted unlike conventional seam sealer. So use it in under-body places like i did and paint first. (its a nice jet black, should stick to POR, but I haven't tested that yet.) You can get it at any hardware/building store for 6 bux a caulk tube. What's not to love?
I can go on about corrosion all day...
And wtf...I thought this steering box cracking was only a 73-81 GM C/K problem, right?
#28
Looking into this further, the cracking occurs on the trucks where the front cross-member is removed and the frame horns have accordion-like crumple zones.
The 80-86 frame has a stamped, bolt-on crossmember that dips below the radiator support. There are also no "crumple zones" or relief holes in the rails.
On my 92-96 there are two D shaped holes. One is one on the box of the passenger inside and one on the driver outside rail so that the frame bends over to the left in a head on impact.
These, plus the removal of the front cross-member give less support to the steering box. I notice the box area is a bit thicker, but hey, after near 20 years of flexing that rail, it will find a place to crack.
The 80-86 frame has a stamped, bolt-on crossmember that dips below the radiator support. There are also no "crumple zones" or relief holes in the rails.
On my 92-96 there are two D shaped holes. One is one on the box of the passenger inside and one on the driver outside rail so that the frame bends over to the left in a head on impact.
These, plus the removal of the front cross-member give less support to the steering box. I notice the box area is a bit thicker, but hey, after near 20 years of flexing that rail, it will find a place to crack.
#29
Looking into this further, the cracking occurs on the trucks where the front cross-member is removed and the frame horns have accordion-like crumple zones.
The 80-86 frame has a stamped, bolt-on crossmember that dips below the radiator support. There are also no "crumple zones" or relief holes in the rails.
On my 92-96 there are two D shaped holes. One is one on the box of the passenger inside and one on the driver outside rail so that the frame bends over to the left in a head on impact.
These, plus the removal of the front cross-member give less support to the steering box. I notice the box area is a bit thicker, but hey, after near 20 years of flexing that rail, it will find a place to crack.
The 80-86 frame has a stamped, bolt-on crossmember that dips below the radiator support. There are also no "crumple zones" or relief holes in the rails.
On my 92-96 there are two D shaped holes. One is one on the box of the passenger inside and one on the driver outside rail so that the frame bends over to the left in a head on impact.
These, plus the removal of the front cross-member give less support to the steering box. I notice the box area is a bit thicker, but hey, after near 20 years of flexing that rail, it will find a place to crack.
#30