1946 FORD 1 TON 5 HOLE WHEEL - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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1946 FORD 1 TON 5 HOLE WHEEL

 
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Old 04-02-2011, 12:06 PM
RMCOTNER
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1946 FORD 1 TON 5 HOLE WHEEL

We have a 1 ton that has the big 5 hole wheel bolt pattern, is there a hub that would interchange with it that has a more common pattern such as a 1960's thru 1980's 3/4 or 1 ton 8 hole wheel pattern?
 
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Old 04-03-2011, 09:54 AM
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Are you wanting front or rear hubs or both?

I think the front and rear hubs from the 48-early 51 F-2 trucks will interchange and has the common 8 lug. I'm not 100% sure of this, you will need to experiment. On the front I think you will need the bearings from the later truck along with the hub and they fit your spindle. On the rear I think the hubs interchange.

If you are changing the rear axle you can install a 9 inch to get the 5 lug and I think the 1/2 ton hubs and bearings go directly on your spindles. I think this would look wrong on a 1 ton truck.

Another possible option that nobody thinks of is to go the opposite direction in years. I think the wide 5 hubs and drums from 38-41 3/4 or 1 ton will swap on too.

Why do you want to change wheels? What is wrong with stock?
 
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:09 PM
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46 1 ton wheels

Thanks for the information, nothing is wrong with the hubs and wheels, just that they are the old split rims and 17 inch at that. I thought that maybe if I could change to 8 hole hubs then I would be able to use 16 inch wheels and tires.
 
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by RMCOTNER View Post
Thanks for the information, nothing is wrong with the hubs and wheels, just that they are the old split rims and 17 inch at that. I thought that maybe if I could change to 8 hole hubs then I would be able to use 16 inch wheels and tires.
Your truck has 14" rear drums which a 16" wheel generally won't clear. I have heard a few guys claim they've found 16s that clear, but no one ever has given specifics of donor vehicles. Normally the drop center of a one piece 16" rim will hang up on your drums. To get around this you could swap out your rear brakes and hubs, or whole rear axle, for a '48 to early '51 F-2 axle that has 12" drums. Avoid late '51 and '52 because they moved the parking brake to the transmission. Or go all the way and swap in a Dana 60 from a '67 to '72 F-250 to improve the final drive ratio. Stu
 
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Old 02-18-2018, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by truckdog62563 View Post
Your truck has 14" rear drums which a 16" wheel generally won't clear. I have heard a few guys claim they've found 16s that clear, but no one ever has given specifics of donor vehicles. Normally the drop center of a one piece 16" rim will hang up on your drums. To get around this you could swap out your rear brakes and hubs, or whole rear axle, for a '48 to early '51 F-2 axle that has 12" drums. Avoid late '51 and '52 because they moved the parking brake to the transmission. Or go all the way and swap in a Dana 60 from a '67 to '72 F-250 to improve the final drive ratio. Stu
Hey, wondering what the stud size and pattern is on the 46 1 Ton Merc
 
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Old 02-18-2018, 08:29 PM
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3/4” stud, 16 tpi. The pattern is 5 x 6 7/8” circle. Right hand threads on the right side, left hand threads on the left side. Stu
 
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:59 PM
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I am a huge fan of the jailbar era one ton trucks. Without a doubt, my favorite part of them is the 17", 5 on 6 7/8, multi-piece wheels with their stainless hub caps. Not too hard to find the 17" tires, new or used and at 34" diameter, helps the road gearing. They also fill up those big fender openings. Some of us here want your wheels, drums, hubcaps etc should you decide to swap out to something easier to deal with. Either way, welcome to the tonner club!
 
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Old 02-19-2018, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by GB SISSON View Post
I am a huge fan of the jailbar era one ton trucks. Without a doubt, my favorite part of them is the 17", 5 on 6 7/8, multi-piece wheels with their stainless hub caps. Not too hard to find the 17" tires, new or used and at 34" diameter, helps the road gearing. They also fill up those big fender openings. Some of us here want your wheels, drums, hubcaps etc should you decide to swap out to something easier to deal with. Either way, welcome to the tonner club!
Couldnt agree more!!! My tonner is staying as close to how I found her in the barn. Luckily she came with 5 original split rims with original paint. Just grabbed 5 new tires from Coker
Not to hi-jack the thread but is there a upgraded brake solution that allows me to keep those original rims without modifying them? Or do I just rebuild the stock drums front and back?
 
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Old 02-19-2018, 11:37 AM
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Stock brakes, front and back! I am getting ready to do the brakes on my 47 tonner pickup. I have all the parts and plan to do spring bushings at same time so I pulled my box off yesterday. You have pics? We'd love to see this tonner!!!
 
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Old 02-19-2018, 11:47 AM
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You pulled your pickup bed to do rear spring bushings? Am I right that’s to drive out the front rear pins? Have you thought about the use of a puller, threaded into the grease zerk? Old discussion thread below. Stu

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tml?styleid=16
 
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Old 02-19-2018, 02:36 PM
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A good brake job with well tuned brakes should stop the tuck just fine. The problem is well tune brakes should have the shoes arced into the drums and they are few if any places to get that done. It requires a brake shoe grinder, or thicker linings. Another issue is even having drums that are within service limits. Most vehicles have the number stamped in the drum, or cast in. A 14" drum would probably have a service limit around 14.090 or 14.100. I would guess that 80% of the 30s and 40s Fords I take apart have drums worn well past the service limits and basically junk. Even at the limit of 14.100, a replacement set of shoes is going to make a very small contact patch with the drum, unless ground in. Maybe you can find a good truck brake shop that can do this.
 
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Old 02-19-2018, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by truckdog62563 View Post
You pulled your pickup bed to do rear spring bushings? Am I right thatís to drive out the front rear pins? Have you thought about the use of a puller, threaded into the grease zerk? Old discussion thread below. Stu

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tml?styleid=16
The bed was on with 4 bolts in the corners and the fenders are off for repair and there is no bed wood in it. I made a bridle and hoisted it off with my skidsteer. Now it's all wide open and most of the work can be done from the TOP! Got some 'like new' linings and turned drums from my parts truck. I had all the lines and hoses and cylinders already. These new brake shoes said '73 in magic marker on them. EDIT: Wow Stu, that looks like an excellent method.
 
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Old 02-19-2018, 09:44 PM
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I've heard but can't guarantee that mid '80's front spindles can be adapted to the big truck front axles of this vintage. If so you won't have 8 lugs and disc brakes up front but then you'd have to swap out the rear end so you'd have 8 lugs all around.
 
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Old 02-19-2018, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 51504BAT View Post
I've heard but can't guarantee that mid '80's front spindles can be adapted to the big truck front axles of this vintage. If so you won't have 8 lugs and disc brakes up front but then you'd have to swap out the rear end so you'd have 8 lugs all around.
Willowbilly's 40-41 tonner panel has 8 lug front and rear. Maybe from an f-2 or f-3??? I'm sure it would have been a practical swap back when in commercial use and stuff getting hard to source.
 
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Old 02-21-2018, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by GB SISSON View Post
Willowbilly's 40-41 tonner panel has 8 lug front and rear. Maybe from an f-2 or f-3??? I'm sure it would have been a practical swap back when in commercial use and stuff getting hard to source.
The rear axle is bolted in. The front axle is just chained in. It's springs do not line up with the frame mounts and the steering connection is different so it isn't hooked up either.
 
 
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