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Timing belt 2.3L

 
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:52 PM
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Timing belt 2.3L

Tried looking in the tech thread, and anything related to 2.3L timing belt gives an error page....

Anyways, I'm trying to figure out what I *should* be seeing thru the hole in the cam belt cover, when the rubber plugs is removed. I have lined up the lower mark, pulled the plug, saw nothing but teeth on the gear. Turned crank 1 full turn, still nothing visible. I can't be that crazy or blind....

1995 B2300 2.3L 5 speed. I suspect the belt is slipped/not installed right. Truck runs, but not real well. Bogs badly over ~2500RPM, low power, and almost no manifold vacuum anytime the throttle is opened, at all. Just at idle, tap the throttle, and all hint of manifold vacuum disappears. Pings/spark knock like crazy under the slightest load, and lightest throttle possible.
Again, truck runs, just very low on power. I drove it 250 miles earlier this week.
 
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:50 PM
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Here is a link on timing belt replacement.

2.3 & 2.5 Timing belt removal & installation.
 
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:10 PM
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Well, no matter what I do, I can't see anything thru that stupid little plug hole. Bad as I hate to, I might just have to take the cover off to see anything.
Who designs something with timing marks so cotton pickin hard to see? It's not like they are important, or anything.......
 
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Old 04-01-2011, 01:52 PM
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Well, after extensive examination, I can't find any sign of those triangles shown in the pics. There is the dimple on the tin plate behind the belt, and it's visible thru the cover hole, but there doesn't seem to be any sign of what it should line up with, if it were the actual mark.
BTW, it's not very easy to look thru that hole. Between using a mirror and small light, it can be done. Might be easier without the A/C & PS bracket in the way. Dunno why they used the PS bracket to mount the A/C, truck ain't got PS......
 
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Old 04-03-2011, 12:15 PM
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Pulled the cover. With the timing mark on the balancer sitting ~30BTDC, the cam gear is lined up, and the aux shaft gear is advanced 1 tooth.
How was it even running? Granted, it had low power and pulled almost no vacuum, but I have driven this thing over 500 miles in the last 4-5 days, mostly at 60-75 MPH. If it was carbed and had an actual dist, I could kinda see how it was able to fire up and run. But, EFI and DIS? With no check engine light/trouble codes. Simply amazing.
Time to knock out the crank bolt and replace the belt I suppose. On the other hand, I could just loosen the tensioner and reset the cam belt. Surely it hasn't been like this too long.....
Either way, I'm betting it will run at least a little better........
 
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Old 04-03-2011, 01:34 PM
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Here's a top tip for you, do NOT line up the dimples in the belt guides on the cam/aux shaft gears with the pointers on the cover. It'll still run, but not very strong. On the other hand, if you want to de-tune the heck outta roller cam 2.3L, there's the way to do it.......
I took the quick/cheap way out and just reset the cam belt. My word, does it ever run good now. Can't really complain, bought it for $700 and have had 3 mechanics tell me there was no way it the belt could be off more than a single tooth. Well, it was off about 6 on the cam, and 7 on the aux shaft....... Both advanced.
 
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:37 AM
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Does the aux shaft actually have to be aligned? If so, for what purpose? I thought with DIS it only ran the oil pump.
I have sent the guys here a Word DOC for the timing belt, but they don't seem to be able to get it put into the technical section at the top of this sub-forum.
tom
 
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Old 04-04-2011, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff View Post
Pulled the cover. With the timing mark on the balancer sitting ~30BTDC, the cam gear is lined up, and the aux shaft gear is advanced 1 tooth.
How was it even running? Granted, it had low power and pulled almost no vacuum, but I have driven this thing over 500 miles in the last 4-5 days, mostly at 60-75 MPH. If it was carbed and had an actual dist, I could kinda see how it was able to fire up and run. But, EFI and DIS? With no check engine light/trouble codes. Simply amazing.
Time to knock out the crank bolt and replace the belt I suppose. On the other hand, I could just loosen the tensioner and reset the cam belt. Surely it hasn't been like this too long.....
Either way, I'm betting it will run at least a little better........
Originally Posted by tomw View Post
Does the aux shaft actually have to be aligned? If so, for what purpose? I thought with DIS it only ran the oil pump.
I have sent the guys here a Word DOC for the timing belt, but they don't seem to be able to get it put into the technical section at the top of this sub-forum.
tom
I am not positive but I think on your model the camshaft positioning sensor is behind the oil pump and runs off of that......therefore if the oil-pump is not lined up then the cmp sensor is off.......I think?
 
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:28 AM
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I know that some years have a cam position sensor on the aux shaft. I think the DIS relys on both the crank position sensor and cam sensor to properly detemine when to fire which plugs. I figure there's a reason the aux shaft still has a mark that is supposed to be aligned.
Either way, it doesn't take but a couple extra seconds to do it right.
 
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff View Post
I know that some years have a cam position sensor on the aux shaft. I think the DIS relys on both the crank position sensor and cam sensor to properly detemine when to fire which plugs. I figure there's a reason the aux shaft still has a mark that is supposed to be aligned.
Either way, it doesn't take but a couple extra seconds to do it right.
94 and earlier has just an aux shaft at that position.........95+ the oil pump is there........... the camshaft sensor was introduced in 1994 in California 2.3 trucks and 1995 for all 2.3/2.5 engines ....
 
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:13 AM
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Older models have a camshaft sensor in the (former) dist hole, and drive the oil pump off the bottom of that. It even looks quite a bit like a dist, and is driven by the aux shaft "old school" style like a dist.
95+ model have a camshaft sensor on the aux shaft. The oil pump was also redesigned is driven by the aux shaft.
So yeah, if you want the computer to be able to *correctly* determine the position of the cam/crank, the aux shaft needs to be properly timed.
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 03:52 PM
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Older models have a camshaft sensor in the (former) dist hole, and drive the oil pump off the bottom of that. It even looks quite a bit like a dist, and is driven by the aux shaft "old school" style like a dist.

anyone have a picture of this sensor in position?

I have a 1994 B2300 that had sat for 2 years in south florida. It was running ok before I started the days task. I replaced the radiator and hoses and now it won't start. It cranks. Just never kicks over. I removed the fan to get to the lower radiator hose. Could I have possibly changed timing while torqing bolts on the fan?
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 11:16 PM
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Try some WD-40 down the throttle body. If it kicks, you know it is a fuel problem rather than an ignition problem.
OR
Pull a plug wire, stick a spare plug into the boot, ground the shell, and crank it over looking for spark.
Take your pick.

Do you hear the pump run for 3-5 seconds when you turn the key from "off" to "ON'? It is supposed to run to prime/pressurize the fuel rail feeding the injectors.
You can also check the schrader valve on the fuel rail to see if there is fuel available for the injectors to pulse.
tom
 
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:10 AM
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After sitting for 2 years, I'd suspect the timing belt could have given out. Especially after 2 years in south florida...
 
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:39 AM
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I do hear the pump run. I will try the WD40 trick. And... I too agree that after sitting for 2 years that belt slipped. I can see it is not loose and solid around the pulley under the cover, though. Fuel system problem is preferable to me.... I will report back.
thanks everyone....
 

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