Okay, I've read the sticky, and searched through numerous posts, but now I need some answers.

While checking my GPR with a DMM and a 12V test light, I was getting some interesting readings.

While checking the PCM lead, I was getting 11.x volts which fluctuated down to .5 and then back up. The key on control lead was also showing the same.
The output to the glowplugs was not showing a reading what so ever for about a minute or so. Once it did, it was showing 11.x The GP system had maybe 2 minutes to heat up before I turned the key off

I waited about 30-45 minutes (while reading more info on here) and went out to try it again. This time the PCM lead showed a constant .62 volts without fluctuating, the key on control lead was showing 11.x, and the output to the glowplugs was showing absolutely nothing. I waited another minute to see if the glowplug would kick on but it never did.

Now, did I not wait long enough for the GP's to cool down before trying again, or is the relay actually shot. The engine hasn't been run for almost a week now, although it was plugged in until about 2 hours before I tested the GPR.

 

I have the GPR LED on my truck and it doesn't matter if they are hot or not. mine usually come on right after the truck turns off if I try to start it again. I believe if the truck is under 130* they will turn on.

I would say your GPR is bad. It's a simple install, and I would recommend upgrading to the Stancor. Add a GPR LED while your at it, it's soooooo worth it.

 

Well, I started to take off the GPR and use the relay from the AIH just to test things out. That's when I discovered the problem. The hot wire on the GPR had entirely disintegrated and broke off the GPR. Pics to come in a few minutes.

 

Well there's tha problem rite there!!!

 

The good thing about deals like that is that there's no doubt about the problem/or fix

 

Thats exactly what we said once we found this issue. This will hopefully be the last issue we have now.

SO far, we have replaced the LPOP, HPOP, CPS, found the nut holding the IPR on sitting in the engine valley, not to mention the numerous body issues. Ext. cab with broken internal latches so the doors don't close properly.

Currently the door's still won't close properly but the engine runs. We swapped over the AIH relay and just checked voltage to the GP. As soon as the key turned, I heard the click. the voltmeter just proved it. Thank god this is just a $40-$50 fix.

Which by the way is all thanks to FTE yet again. I love this forum.